A long reflection on migrating to a telescope

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Carlo Paschetto avatar
I confess that I am increasingly confused. Based on the advices following up my last post, I started to delve into the world of telescopes to replace my ordinary zoom lens.

Let's start with figures: my Sigma zoom 150-600mm, which I always use at the maximum available aperture ranging from f/5 to f/6.3, has a diameter of 95mm with maximum aperture f/6.3 at 600mm focal length. This is my benchmark.
I assume that when comparing a telescope vs. a photo lens in terms of diameter, aperture and focal length,  I am comparing analogous quantities with the same units of measurement in the same reference system. Am I wrong? And, in this case, why?

Let's say that currenlty my ideal telescope has a focal length between 500mm and 750mm, since most of the DSOs I'm used to shoot at fall within a FOV that now my Sigma lens, mounted on my Canon 90D,  covers from 400 to 600mm, plus 1.4x or 2.0x teleconverters when needed, which I could replace with a couple of barlows, in case.
In other words, this means that today my worst scenario is to shoot at 1200mm (600mm + 2.0x)  at f/13 with a 95mm diameter. I assume this is the real benchmark to look at, whose results I wish to be improved.

If comparison has some meaning, I don't understand how, on a like-for-like basis, I would gain a truly appreciable quality shooting with a telescope in place of my zoom (apart from spending a lot of money, that's maybe the answer).

- So far, I'm discarding Maksutov, Cassegrain et similar, since they have  much longer focal lengths that, given this scenario, keep them out of scope.

- Considering refractors, it seems that I cannot find any APO under 1800€ (which is double the Sigma cost) with an aperture/focal lenght/brightness ratio comparable to my Sigma.
At 600mm most APOs seem to have apertures f/6.5 - f/7 and below, and diameters smaller than mine. Either moving up with diameters, or down with aperture, we end up with sidereal costs over 2000 to 4000€, plus new mount (and accessories, etc)… with all that money I could almost buy a used Canon L 600mm with a a greater aperture and diameter, without the need to change my mount, and also being able to shoot at f/8 at 1200mm…
The issue of price could be circumvented by moving to achromatic rrefractors which, on the other hand, seem to have serious issues with chromatic aberration, a problem that my Sigma, at 600mm, has quite limited. However, compared to Sigma, all the other limitations affecting APO lenses as well remain.
If I stick to a refractor < 500mm I don't see advantages: both diameters and focal lengths are always smaller than my Sigma's figures.
Everything, not to mention that with a large refractor I would still definitely have to change my mount, meaning other significant costs. 

- The only meaningful solutions that would really seem to improve my life are Newtons: much lower costs, perfect parameters on paper to be compared with my Sigma.
For example, the SW 150/600: large diameter, f/4. Compared to my zoom a significative leap forward, but, if I go by what I read, less contrast and above all star spikes that cannot be definitely eliminated (I read that the star spikes are a constant with Newtons).
Also, maintenance issues, collimation, etc. Ok, I could deal with all of those annoiying sides, but not with star spikes, that's really artifacts I don't like. Tell me I can avoid star spikes at all and maybe this could be my path.

Jokes apart, it seems to me that unless you have a few thousand euros to invest, let's say at least >3000€ for refractors + suitable mount,  there is no way out to make a leap ahead in quality while staying in the same target DSOs range (or accepting spikes and more equipment care needed).
What's wrong with my reasoning?

I now mostly shoot at nebulae, as galaxies are generally pretty impossible to catch with my gear. Maybe, truth is that if I'd like to get a real improvement, spending by spending, it would then be preferrable for me really considering something like a Maksutov with much longer focal length and larger diameter than mine, to catch galaxies, planets and small nebula that now I cannot target at all.

That's unless there is a fundamental flaw in my reasoning or a parameter that I am not taking into account.

Clear sky to everyone, of course!
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Brian Puhl avatar
Anything with a central obstruction will always have star spikes.   Anything protruding from that center obstruction is what causes spikes.   If you don't like them, I'd stay away from Newts for sure. 

You really need to be factoring seeing conditions, sampling, glass quality into your equation.   Unless you live on top of a mountain, chances are your seeing will never support a longer focal length very well.     Based on everything that I've soaked in since I started this, I'd much rather be under sampled than oversampled.  Google tells me the pixel size of your camera is 3.20µm, so personally I'd go for something in the 400-500mm focal length, which should put you between 1.3 and 1.6 arc second sampling.   If you're at sea level, that will likely leave you seeing limited still.   

Zoom lenses kinda suck for astro.  They're not crisp, the edges are usually pretty bad and full of CA.   Going to any mid range telescope is going to be a substantial increase in image quality for you.

Moving to a 80 or 90mm triplet is my suggestion for you.  

but you haven't addressed your mount, which looking at your gallery is a star adventurer.    You wont be slinging any telescope of size on that.
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WolfgangH avatar
Carlo,
it is amazing what you managed to achieve with your Sigma C 150-600 mm lens.
I have the same lens, but my results were not that good. 
Probably mainly because it was difficult to track with SkyWatcher Adventurer Mount
as DLSR + this lens is already a bit too much for this mount.

If you want to do a quantum leap you need to invest quite some money.
I have no experience with the Star Adventurer Gti, because I only own the
Star Adventurer and the EQ6R.
For me there was a huge difference when upgrading to EQ6R.
Together with APT software and Mgen3 it does a perfect job remote
controlled from my notebook with GoTo++, dithering, image capture, motor 
focus control etc.
So my recommendation is to start with a better mount, not with a better lens.
Doing small deep sky targets in the range of  1-10 ' is getting very tricky,
so it is more satisfactory to do all the larger objects beforehand, and there 
are really a lot of them.
For small Deep Sky Objects you need a very fast lens (objects are very faint)
and a very high focal length. Both together is very expensive.
Only reasonable compromise price wise in this area are Newtons.
Due to collimation they are more difficult to handle than your Sigma lens.
Otherwise you will have to use a RC device (Almost all professionals use this
type of device). With decent quality very expensive.
And, most important of all: dark sky. Most deep sky photography with
outstanding results is done via remote telescopes in very dark locations.

My 2 cents.
Clear Skies
Wolfgang
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Carlo Paschetto avatar
Thank you Wolfgang, I also had a StarAdventurer 2i, which I was used to use with the same camera set-up, just adding an additional counterweight on the perpendicular axis (it was quite a strange hack, but it worked).
The first great improvement I had was by guiding the StarAventurer with the Asiair plus, of course only on R.A.. The GTI is a giant leap compared to the 2i and it works really well, above all guiding it with the Asiair. Also the Asiair has a very good GoTo WiFi remote system, which I appreciate a lot.
Actually I'm a quite at the limit with the total load, also as I use an additional counterweight with the GTI as well. I should be around 5kg total, which is the theoretic limit for the GTI. I was thinking to migrate to the EQ5 as it's cheaper than EQ6, but can carry a total 10kg load which it could work for me on a medium term.

Ciao!
Carlo
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Carlo Paschetto avatar
Brian Puhl:
Anything with a central obstruction will always have star spikes.   Anything protruding from that center obstruction is what causes spikes.   If you don't like them, I'd stay away from Newts for sure. 

You really need to be factoring seeing conditions, sampling, glass quality into your equation.   Unless you live on top of a mountain, chances are your seeing will never support a longer focal length very well.     Based on everything that I've soaked in since I started this, I'd much rather be under sampled than oversampled.  Google tells me the pixel size of your camera is 3.20µm, so personally I'd go for something in the 400-500mm focal length, which should put you between 1.3 and 1.6 arc second sampling.   If you're at sea level, that will likely leave you seeing limited still.   

Zoom lenses kinda suck for astro.  They're not crisp, the edges are usually pretty bad and full of CA.   Going to any mid range telescope is going to be a substantial increase in image quality for you.

Moving to a 80 or 90mm triplet is my suggestion for you.  

but you haven't addressed your mount, which looking at your gallery is a star adventurer.    You wont be slinging any telescope of size on that.

Thank you Brian, it's actually a GTI and I'm considering to change the mount indeed, should I move to a telescope. This is why I'm trying to keep the budget for the telescope a little lower, but before moving and spending all of that money I would like to be sure I'm going to have a significant improvement in quality.
I actually live in a quite light polluted urban area and this is *the* issue I guess. 
I keep your advice for an 80/90mm triplet and better explore catalogues.
Brian Puhl avatar
Carlo Paschetto:
Thank you Wolfgang, I also had a StarAdventurer 2i, which I was used to use with the same camera set-up, just adding an additional counterweight on the perpendicular axis (it was quite a strange hack, but it worked).
The first great improvement I had was by guiding the StarAventurer with the Asiair plus, of course only on R.A.. The GTI is a giant leap compared to the 2i and it works really well, above all guiding it with the Asiair. Also the Asiair has a very good GoTo WiFi remote system, which I appreciate a lot.
Actually I'm a quite at the limit with the total load, also as I use an additional counterweight with the GTI as well. I should be around 5kg total, which is the theoretic limit for the GTI. I was thinking to migrate to the EQ5 as it's cheaper than EQ6, but can carry a total 10kg load which it could work for me on a medium term.

Ciao!
Carlo



Wolfgang is pretty dead on here though, the mount is the most important piece of equipment in the whole equation.    Buying something for the 'medium term' isn't the answer when it comes to a mount.   Your aspirations seem much bigger than the EQ5 can handle.    I have two EQ6's and I can echo wolfgangs comment... the EQ6 is the way to go and can handle much much bigger scopes with ease.   Also, I'd recommend dumping the Assair in favor of a good minipc and NINA, but that's not a requirement at this time.
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andrea tasselli avatar
Carlo Paschetto:
- The only meaningful solutions that would really seem to improve my life are Newtons: much lower costs, perfect parameters on paper to be compared with my Sigma.
For example, the SW 150/600: large diameter, f/4. Compared to my zoom a significative leap forward, but, if I go by what I read, less contrast and above all star spikes that cannot be definitely eliminated (I read that the star spikes are a constant with Newtons).
Also, maintenance issues, collimation, etc. Ok, I could deal with all of those annoiying sides, but not with star spikes, that's really artifacts I don't like. Tell me I can avoid star spikes at all and maybe this could be my path.


Reflectors are the only right path to be followed in most situations so you'll either have to deal with it or find reflectors (well catadioptrics) that don't have a spider or have a spider modified in a way to avoid the spikes (such as mine). As I suppose the latter aren't easily available I propose that the following will fill in all the requirements and then some:

Teleskop-Express: Explore Scientific MN-152 f/4.8 Maksutov Newtonian Telescope with Field Correction
Carlo Paschetto avatar
andrea tasselli:
Carlo Paschetto:
- The only meaningful solutions that would really seem to improve my life are Newtons: much lower costs, perfect parameters on paper to be compared with my Sigma.
For example, the SW 150/600: large diameter, f/4. Compared to my zoom a significative leap forward, but, if I go by what I read, less contrast and above all star spikes that cannot be definitely eliminated (I read that the star spikes are a constant with Newtons).
Also, maintenance issues, collimation, etc. Ok, I could deal with all of those annoiying sides, but not with star spikes, that's really artifacts I don't like. Tell me I can avoid star spikes at all and maybe this could be my path.


Reflectors are the only right path to be followed in most situations so you'll either have to deal with it or find reflectors (well catadioptrics) that don't have a spider or have a spider modified in a way to avoid the spikes (such as mine). As I suppose the latter aren't easily available I propose that the following will fill in all the requirements and then some:

Teleskop-Express: Explore Scientific MN-152 f/4.8 Maksutov Newtonian Telescope with Field Correction

Good advice Andrea, I'm going to take a look!
Christian Großmann avatar
I took my first images with a Canon 300mm f/4 L lens, before I switched to a Newton. To decide between Newts and Refractors is personal taste, I guess. But every scope I own is much better than the Canon lens I used. The problem is, that in a lens there are a lot of glass elements. Zoom lenses are even worse here. A lens is made to focus from near to far. The very near and the far ends are usually a compromise in sharpness and abberations or coma. Especially wide open!!! The many glass elements all loose a bit of light. Every surface is generating reflections, although the lenses are well coated these days. But they have their problems and you loose contrast.

A scope is made with another goal in mind. It is designed to focus with the best sharpness at infinity. If you don't need the other focus regions, you may use much less lens elements. Two lenses have abberation problems. Three lenses do not have a flat focus plane. With four lenses, you are usually really well corrected. In a zoom lens you may have about 15 to 20 lenses. The flares on brighter stars and the contrast (especially with longer focal length lenses) may be much worse than a scope.

Another thing might be the focuser. The 1:10 ratio most focusers have lets you focus much more precisely than with a lens. This might not be as obvious at f/6.3 but with faster lenses it may be problematic.

With telescopes, the diameter of the opening is responsible for the faintest things you might see. This is only dependent on the diameter. A 4, 4.5 or 5 inch refractor lets you see fainter objects than your Sigma lens.

I took a look at your images and they are really good for the equipment you use. But your stars in the corners are not point-like. Even with a medium quality scope, they will be much better in my experience. If you look at your image corners, the stars have abberations and color fringes. They are elongated due to coma. Even in the image center, there is a bit of blur. Thats all due to the equipment you use and I bet most of the problems origin from the lens itself.

Anyway, if you are satisfied with your Sigma lens, then use it. It's totally fine. It might not be much fun to use it at a focal length of 1200 f/13 with a star adventurer. The exposure time for a faint subject might be extremely long. It's more than 10 times the exposure time of an f/4 Newton. It's even 8 times the exposure time of a 5.6 focal ratio.

From my experience, the suggestion to buy a better mount is the best advice for you in the first place. Your images may improve a lot. There is a lot of potential in your images and I think you are a great astro imager. With other equipment, you will play in the same league as other good astro photographers here. And YES, it is an expensive hobby. You do have a starting point. It's up to you, how far you may go (keyword: rabbit hole :angelsmile

So keep examining the astro world with whatever equipment you have. Maybe there are some things written here that helps you decide which route you want to go.

Clear skies

Christian
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Christian Großmann avatar
One thing I forgot to mention. Focal lengths of around a thousand millimeter or longer are really hard to guide. That's the border of both of my EQ6s that are really good affordable mounts (kind of compared to high quality mounts). Everything better than the EQ6 class will be much more expensive. That's why many of us stay in that league. Anyway, I am not able to use longer exposure times than about 300s at focal lengths longer than about the 1000mm mark. You may have really hard times to achieve this with a cheaper mount that usually can only handle much less payload.
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Carlo Paschetto avatar
Thank to all of you guys, very appreciated contributions. I think my very next step, based on all of your advices, is to increase my budget and probably go for a solution like EQ5/EQ6 + Matkusov as for Andrea's hint. Better would be to find a second hand EQ6 at the price of a new EQ5!
Just for giving the full picture, today I have a GTI (max 5kg load, I'm just at limits with my current equipment). I use to guide well at 300s up to 840mm, 180s at 1200mm. These are my typical parameters.
I understand it's time for me to make a step ahead and take a look inside my wallet… smile
Christian Großmann avatar
But I was wondering how much you see in a 180s subframe taken at 1200mm f/13. It's like I take a 15s image with my f/4 Newton. I will need a lot of frames to get the signal out of the noise and won't even see faint details. It would take days for you to collect enough data to get a reasonable image. With telescopes it works usually the other way around than with lenses. Here you buy the longest scope you can afford (if you're like me) and then use a reducer to increase the focal ratio if needed. With a teleconverter you make a relatively slow lens even slower. With a 2x extender you will need 4 times the number of sub frames to see what you see in an image taken at f6.3. If you do one night for 1 subject, you extend that time over 4 nights now. This may not be much fun.

Don't get me wrong. I take the time to collect data over several nights for my subjects. The exposure time is usually longer that most peoples sweet spot here. But I invest that time to be able to see more details in the images. With your method, this time will be needed to see even the obvious details.

Astro photography is different than the usual photography. What you already know about collecting photons on a sensor if you image the "normal" stuff can't be projected 1:1 on AP. Here you take other physical aspects into account, because you will get much less signal. Of course physics stays the same, but you work on a completely different level.
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dkamen avatar
Carlo Paschetto:
Jokes apart, it seems to me that unless you have a few thousand euros to invest, let's say at least >3000€ for refractors + suitable mount,  there is no way out to make a leap ahead in quality while staying in the same target DSOs range (or accepting spikes and more equipment care needed).
What's wrong with my reasoning?

You basically already own a ~1000 euro 600mm f/6-ish refractor. . It makes some "sacrifices" in aberrations because a) it is a zoom and not a prime, b) it has many more pieces of glass and c) it is able to focus much closer.  For example in many of your pictures bright stars are quite irregularly shaped, dim stars are a little fuzzy and all stars have color artifacts. A refractor would show all stars more crisp and regular, but the difference is only visible if you pixel-peep and to a lesser degree in the colours, mainly in areas with many stars. It would be better. But not 3000 euros better. Also other factors such as flattener quality and distancing would come into play that could well result in less than ideal stars. A reflector or a cat would deliver something on a completely different level (larger aperture, non-existent CA) but at the cost of other complexities, most importantly a way more expensive mount, reflectors are heavy.

If you remain in the same target range, you are correct that it is not worth it.

The thing IMO is there are different kinds of astrophotography. To image the smaller planets for example you need a planetary camera and a telescope the size of a washing machine. That equipment could give you a magnificent picture of Andromeda, but it would take tens or hundreds of nights, many of them lost dealing with issues you are completely oblivious to with your current gear. It is not "more advanced", just used for different things. 

So if you want to target different stuff, by all means go for it and yeah, the mount is more important than everything else combined. But if you want to keep imaging relatively bright and wide things in broadband, you already have what you need and are actually producing very good results.

Cheers,
Dimitris
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