How many subjects per session?

I often find myself shooting an object during multiple nights. I'm in a Bortle 5/6 zone and I capture in mono. Usually this results in the following:

• For RGB: I usually attempt to gather as much Luminance data until I'm happy with the result after stacking (eg: not too much noise, not too many gradients), after that I shoot RGB. Luminance can easily take 2 nights.
• For Narrowband: I usually attempt to cover 1 narrowband channel per night. (Note: I recently switched to an ASI533MM, coming from a QHY163M and the difference in noise in narrowband is remarkable - so I think in the future it might take less effort to capture higher quality data with the ASI533MM).

It also depends on the target that I'm shooting: if the target goes below a reasonable altitude (let's say 40°) in the middle of the available "night/darkness" then I'd either continue to another target that's higher in the sky, unless I can do something with narrowband for the current target.

I prefer to pick targets that go high up in the sky and remain there for a while, I do plan this in advance though using Telescopius.

Just dependent on the subject. Most recently I was imaging M27 it sets in my backyard around 3am, so I had the ASIair image Melotte 15 until dawn. Did this for 4 nights in a row and got enough data on 2 targets. Otherwise I would have wasted a lot of clear skies time. 

If my target is in my skies the entire night, I just keep it simple and just focus on one target. Less chance of issues happening.

I have been shooting the one and same object since Sept. 6th … even right now I am shooting it.

Thank you all for your replies! So it seems I'm a bit more normal than I realised–I must tell my partner! I also hate to waste clear skies so it seems sensible to get as much out of them as possible.

I feel that I have a bit to learn about using Telescopius to best effect. I have got better at sorting through all the tiny targets that won't image well with my telescopes, but I have not yet sat down to figure out what my optimal target size should be. And like many of you, I have a mono rig and an OSC one, so that means that different targets will be shootable on any given night, and with mono it often takes several nights to get the data I need.

Kristof Vandebeek:
I often find myself shooting an object during multiple nights. I'm in a Bortle 5/6 zone and I capture in mono. Usually this results in the following:

• For RGB: I usually attempt to gather as much Luminance data until I'm happy with the result after stacking (eg: not too much noise, not too many gradients), after that I shoot RGB. Luminance can easily take 2 nights.
• For Narrowband: I usually attempt to cover 1 narrowband channel per night. (Note: I recently switched to an ASI533MM, coming from a QHY163M and the difference in noise in narrowband is remarkable - so I think in the future it might take less effort to capture higher quality data with the ASI533MM).

It also depends on the target that I'm shooting: if the target goes below a reasonable altitude (let's say 40°) in the middle of the available "night/darkness" then I'd either continue to another target that's higher in the sky, unless I can do something with narrowband for the current target.

I prefer to pick targets that go high up in the sky and remain there for a while, I do plan this in advance though using Telescopius.

Very interesting; I mostly shoot narrowband, but on the occasion when I do shoot broadband I used to tend to discount luminance in favour of RGB (since I figured who cares about plain white light). I have come around to the view that luminance is really important though, and now give it the time it needs, often at the expense of the RGB.

Almost always one target, many, many nights. I aim for 6 nights on a target, I won't even start processing until I have 4-5 hours per channel minimum. But I'm weird. I've been working on a mosaic with my second rig since mid august. I'll decide later this week if it's done or needs another month.

Just like you, I make the most out of the night by shooting multiple objects. But that depends on the object because some stay up all night. Here is what tomorrow will look like for me (I am blessed to live in the mountains of Lebanon: Little atmospheric wobble at 1800m altitude, and great cloudless nights all throughout Summer and much of Spring and Fall):

Tomorrow: 8PM-11:45PM Squid Nebula, then 11.45-12.45 Pleiades, then 12.45-5 Spaghetti Nebula.

I am sure people have different strategies depending on their location and the weather patterns.

In regards to having trees and other obstructions in the way, I would recommend using Sky Guide, a free app that you can download on your phone. Through the app, you can track the object you want to image through the night by speeding up the time (top left). Not sure if you can see the sky in augmented reality through the app although I know some other apps have that feature, but that being said you do not really need AR, you can get a decent estimate of the paths of objects in the night sky by following them on your screen.

Hope that helps

I am in Bortle 8+ sky.   I primarily shoot mono and try to accumulate 20hr+ per target to get reasonable definition in my difficult sky.   When I see a target that is interesting, I determine when the target crosses the Meridian at midnight and enter that date on my iPhone calendar.  That develops a library of interesting targets for each month.   That allows me to pick targets each month that maximize time above 40degrees and are near the Meridian for a good portion of the night,  and provides the best chance of getting good data in my backyard sky.  Some long nights I can capture 8hrs on a target.  In that way, I am never in search of what is a good target for tonight….   I simply look at my calendar and pick an interesting target.    I also attach  screen shots of target and data to iPhone calendar.   I can then quickly visualize target if i don't remember exactly what it looks like.

I do multiple objects only if I can't use the entire night for a single one.

If the weather helps, Two subjects. One before the meridian and the other after the meridian. For me there's no point to spend more than that unless is a long project.

Depends on if I image from home or at a different location.  At home I only have access to the east and NE.  If at home I will image multiple objects to maximize dark time.