A 72mm telescope will likely be right on the edge of what it can handle: it is about 2kg, plus a field flattener (~0.5kg), the camera, and a few cables will probably be around 3.5-4kg.
I'd like to chime in here, since I have been doing that for about a year and I think I have thoroughly tested the limits of the star adventurer; I concur with Matthew, the most heavy setup I used has been an TS-Photoline 72/432 with a Flattener, Nikon D3200a or d5300, ZWO mini guidescope, ASI 120 mini guidecam, two dewstraps. The scope, flattener and camera plus dewstraps weigh in at 3,2 kg, the giding setup at 300g. Here are my two cents:
For a focal length like this, RA-guiding is a must with this mount if you want to do subexposures longer than 30 seconds! Guiding in RA was about 1,5" RMS at its best, which gives you reasonably round stars with a DSLR and a 432mm scope. Overall RMS was usually 1,9" to 2,2" once I figured out the setup. But for this, perfect polar alignment is crucial, since there is no guiding in Dec.
It really helps to mount the guiding assembly on the counterweight side of the L-bar instead of putting it on top of the scope. Like this, you don't have to put on extra counterweights to balance the mount and keep the overall load down. Switching to this setup easily improved my guiding by 0,8"RMS. It is possible because you only guide in RA, and thus it doesn't matter which side of the Axis you guide from, just make sure to point the guidescope rougly the same direction as your imaging scope.
Putting aside the technical details; With this mount you have to be extra careful every bolt is tight and in place, and even then it's not the most stable in case of wind. I think using this as a first mount teaches you a lot about mount balancing, polar alignment, finding and framing a target, but it also offers lots of potential for frustration. For example it's easy to knock off your polar alignment while framing, so somtimes after framing you will have to slightly correct the alignment and reframe, because changing your PA also slightly changes your framing.... So if you're easliy put off by mishaps better invest in a proper mount.
As for plate solving to find weaker targets: I reccomend the inexpensive capture software Astro Photography Tool (APT), which implements a platesolving routine that works very well once established. It also allows you to operate your camera from a computer, which is way easier than the tiny screen on the camera itself which will mostly be pointing downward.
I have now started using a go-to mount (iOptron CEM25P) which makes life easier and offers way more stability. But all images in my gallery so far were done on the star adventurer.