Optimising a C8 for APS-C. - Drawtube v Celestron Focus Motor

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Steve Spring avatar
I am currently using  a Celestron Focus Motor and getting pretty good focus runs in NINA, good enough for imaging purposes but always looking for ways to improve.
My focus runs just aren't consistent enough for the miniscule tilt adjustments I'd like to make in Hocus Focus and wondered if this is because of mirror shift or just changes in the atmosphere.
I have a few questions if anyone has any experience to help me please?

1. I'd love to know if I could expect to see better results in my final imges if I used a drawtube focuser with motor or if there would be little difference?
2. Would a drawtube solve the slight inconsistency issues for tilt adjustment
3. Can I fit a drawtube to a C8 and keep my Celestron Focuser in place for when I use the Hyperstar and to keep the mirror locked to some degree?
4. Will a drawtube do anything to help mirror flop after a meridian flip? (I'm guesing not at all)
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John avatar
the old c8 have mirror flop, most people  add a sct focusser  behind. then you dont focus with the mirror.
The new  edge sct have  no more  problems.  meade have also  mirror lock.

You can make it yourself, but its easyer to get a sct focusser like this. https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p3947_TS-Optics-2--MONORAIL-Dual-Speed-Focuser-for-SC-Telescopes---SC-Thread.html
Steve Spring avatar
If I am gettin consistent curves like this, does anyone know if i will see any improvement in my images by using a Crayford focuser?



When i run these sets through Hocus Focus the results are not consistent enough to be able to make any tilt adjustments and I can't hep thinking this is becuse of the focus mech on the SCT. I was hoping a Crayford focuser would help with fine tuning that but don't want to splash out, add more weight to the rig for little difference.
Would love to know if anyone has any practical experience please?
Jay Sanchez avatar
John:
the old c8 have mirror flop, most people  add a sct focusser  behind. then you dont focus with the mirror.
The new  edge sct have  no more  problems.  meade have also  mirror lock.

You can make it yourself, but its easyer to get a sct focusser like this. https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p3947_TS-Optics-2--MONORAIL-Dual-Speed-Focuser-for-SC-Telescopes---SC-Thread.html



Hi John -- I'm also interested in adding a focuser to my old Meade SCT. 

Regarding the focuser you suggested (and I see other similar brands), on the eyepiece side that uses a compression ring to attach a camera (with a 2" nose piece), wouldn't the compression ring cause a slight tilt?

Versus attaching the camera using threads. I struggled with this issue when I was imaging with a newt...
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Steve Spring avatar
Thank you for you relpies.

My understanding is that there is mirror flop and mirror shift.
Mirror shift is experienced when changing focus direction on an SCT and would be eliminated with a Crayford style focuser. I am not sure to what extent I am suffering with this. The focus curves are good but not good enough for tilt adjustment in Hocus Focus. I could test this with a planetary camera and watch the shift in a star but ultimately I don't want to spend £600 on an external focuser without first establishing what will be achieved.

Mirror flop is experienced when pointing at different altitudes or after a meridian flip. This can only be mitigated against by means of a mirror lock which on my C8 would mean a retrofit. I can't see how an external focuser would help with this?

I'd really like to hear from someone who has an external focuser that has seen improvement in focus or anyone who has had success dialling in tilt with an SCT?
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Michael Ring avatar
Did you check that your focus position is consistent?
In Nina you can either have your focuser correct backlash with a left or a right turn, depending on where you put the number.
With my Edge HD I get consistent focusser position when I correct backlash from the left, but not when I correct from the right. Easy to understand, in one direction gravity works for you, in the other not.
Once I had the right direction the tilt adjustments in HokusFokus worked just fine.

Hope this helps,

Michael
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Steve Spring avatar
Hi Michael,
Thank you. Glad you had a good result with tilt.
Yes I have my focuser set to overshoot in NINA so that it always end with an anti-clockwise turn.
Hocus Focus just returns different readings from one run to the next, so any adjustments are meaningless.
Looking around the forums, many are saying that once you are close in Hocus Focus, hte last adjustments should be made with visual inspection of the images using abberation inspector.
Perhaps my tilt is not too severe, but I'd like to fix it down.
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Michael Ring avatar
Hmm.. correct me if I am wrong, but an anti clockwise turn moves the mirror down, so Gravity is not helping you, the mirror can sag down a little bit, only with a clockwise move the mirror's weight will work for you because gravity pushes the mirror against the thread of the screw.
You can verify this with a simple nut and a screw.
This is why I asked if your focus position (position of the stepper motor in steps when focussed) is consistent, in your case there is a chance that the value fluctuates.
Also it seems that either the thread of your focusser is a lot more coarse than the thread on the Edge HD or your autofocusser works with larger steps...
Here's an example of one of my focusser curves, I have 350 steps per point, you seem to have something like 25 steps per point. I am using a ZWO Autofocusser, actually one focusser step is 0.13um

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drblevy13 avatar
Hi Steve,

I have a Celestron EdgeHD 11 with the Celestron Focus Motor as well as a rear cell Moonlite CHL crayford focuser.  Almost certain that your inconsistent Hocus Focus results are related to mirror flop.  That is going to introduce image shift regardless of how great a fit your curve is during your autofocus.  Even the EdgeHD series has notorious mirror flop.  The mirror changes position either when you are focusing (which slides it along the baffle tube) or when the scope changes positions and gravity acts on the mirror from a different position.  Either of these scenarios will cause image shift, which will throw off Hocus Focus' tilt calculations.  Since your scope does not have mirror locks, adding a Crayford focuser would eliminate image shift from the primary mirror focusing mechanism, but will NOT fix any image shift because of the mirror changing positions during scope slewing/tracking.

The way I have gotten consistent results with EdgeHD is to:

1. Point the scope towards zenith and set the image sensor at the manufacturer's specified backfocus distance using the Crayford focuser and Vernier calipers.

2. Focus with the Celestron Focus Motor to get best focus using the primary mirror adjustment.  Make sure last adjustment is counterclockwise focus knob movement, which pushes the mirror up against gravity.  Then lock the primary mirror.

3. Use the Crayford focuser to do autofocus run to really dial in the best sensor position.

After these steps are complete, I never touch the primary mirror position again.  All focusing is done with the Crayford focuser.  I admit, though, that without mirror locks I don't know how successful this may be for you since your mirror may still flop as your scope changes position.

Regards,
Ben
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Steve Spring avatar
Hi Michael,

Thanks for taking the time to get back to me. You have got me thinking here smile
All the research I have done has suggested the last turn should be anti-clockwise. I understand your model of a nut and bolt, however, if the nut is captive, then an anti-clockwise turn will indeed result in a movement against gravity?

I may be wrong and will look into that some more. It's also frustrating that the direction of the Celestron Focuser cannot be reversed, neither can the focus direction in NINA which means that, my focuser has to overshoot and change direction for every sub in the focus routine. That means the mirror is shifted at each and every point, rather than just at the beginning of the run. I cannot find a way out of that unless I do reverse the direction of backlash compensation, but was of the belief that I had that right as it is?

You are absolutely correct about my focuser, a step size of 25 is quite normal for a Celestron Focus Motor and yes my focus position is consistent across different runs. It is the results in Hocus Focus tilt measurements that are differing between runs. I'm guessing that although th emirror distancing is consitance, it's angle is changing slightly or shifting laterally and so changing the recieved tilt angle at the sensor.

Out of interest, do you lock your mirror once you have fixed focus and tilt?


Ben,

Thanks for such a detailed write up. That's very kind of you to take the time and is appreciated. With an external focuser I could fix my tilt perfectly, say at Zenith as you have suggested. However, you have confirmed my suspicions for me and it seems a mirror lock would be necessary. Any mirror flop from movement around the sky would result in innacurate tilt if the mirror then flops. I was hoping that 'locking' the mirror with the Celestron Focus Motor would help against that somewhat but as you say probably not without locking the mirror. To what extend I would suffer from this I think I could only find out by trying it and i am hoping to obtain a second hand PrimaluceLab Esatto which will hopefully fir along side the Celestron Fosuser.

It's curious that my Hpocus Focus runs are not consistent even when I an pointed to Zenith. This must eb down to mirror shift and may be exasperated by the change of direction I mentioned earlier in this post. I can see how an external focuser would eliminate this but it's interesting that Michael was able to dial tilt in I am asssuming without an external focuser?

Looks like I may be looking into investing in an Edge HD. As well as the mirror lock benefis, I suspect there is a wider flat field for APS-C and presumably reduced vignetting also. It's just out of budget at the moment and I've got great mileage out of this old scope, would love to keep it running smile

Lastly, do you see a difference in the final image if you focus with the Celestron Focus Motor or with the Crayford or are you just getting the benefits of being able to lock the mirror and still refocus without any changes?
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Michael Ring avatar
When the focusser position stys the same during runs you can forget the whole nut and screw discussion, then all seems to be good. You could try to revert the backlash direction and see if you also get consistent focus in that case, and more important, if tilt adjustment now works better without all the direction changes. Worth a try on one of the upcoming nights with moon taking over the night sky again…

And no, I do not lock the mirror because I let nina refocus every hour and when I am at my preferred darkish place the temperatures change quite a bit during night.
Steve Spring avatar
Thanks again Michael. You know you're right, I should just try it and see if it helps. Definately before making a plan to spend more money!

I suspected that you would not lock the mirror, without an external focuser you would lose the advantages of refosuing. I shoot overnight and I tend to set a new run every hour, just to keep everything tightened up.

I'm managing to pull data tonight. I've been doing so much tinkering and calibrating that I'm in danger of forgetting what this is all about for me, taking images. Next clear night, no predicted here for at least a week, I'll give it a whirl
drblevy13 avatar
Steve,

You are very welcome.  Happy to help.  If your focusing runs aren't consistent even at zenith it could either be an issue with focuser backlash compensation, or that the OTA is old enough that the primary mirror movement along the baffle just isn't as smooth as more modern focusing mechanisms.

I originally got the Celestron Focus Motor because I was shooting with Hyperstar.  With that configuration, the camera is front-mounted so you have no choice but to use the primary mirror focusing mechanism.  I ended up selling the Hyperstar but left the Celestron Focus Motor on there so I could tease out best focusing position with the primary mirror before switching over to the Crayford.  A bit of overkill but it has worked for me.  My imaging went to a whole other level once I engaged the mirror locks!

The benefit of getting the primary mirror in the correct position first, and then using the Crayford is that I have seen a reduction in field curvature when doing it that way.  Although the EdgeHD system is pretty good, but the nearly flat field curvature really only applies if you are shooting at native f/10 (which takes FOREVER).  Once you add the 0.7x focal reducer, the field isn't nearly as flat.  I've come to live with that until I can afford a new mount and a Planewave CDK, or an AG Optical iDK 10 smile.

Regards,
Ben
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Steve Spring avatar
Tell you what, when you can afford a Planewave CDK, I'll buy your old EdgeHD 11 🤣

I too have a Hyperstar but still want to keep it for now, hence the reason to keep the  Celestron Focuser in situ.

That's interesting that the field curvature suffers with a focal reducer on the EdgeHD 11.
As you say, sometimes you have to live with the limitations and thank you for helping me to understand what they are with my set up.
I want to squeeze the best I can out of it without chasing shadows. I think I'll get an external focuser anyway if only to satisfy my curiosity
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drblevy13 avatar
Deal! I'll reserve my EdgeHD for you lol.

I chased shadows with this setup for the past 3 years. It was only after shooting at f/2, f/7 and f/10 that I realized that the optics really are best suited for f/10. F/2 is so fast that any micron a hair off the critical focus zone or tilt made everything all wacky. It was one heck of a light bucket though!

I have settled with f/7 to speed up imaging compared to f/10 and have made peace with cropping out the elliptical stars at the edge of the field.
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