I was faced with the same conundrum. I have a Hyperstar with Starizona filter slider, but I also want to use my C8 at F10 or F7. I shoot with OSC and so only need two filters so I dont want a 7 position EFW for $400. I want to be able to swap filters between scopes including another 180mm scope and so have a Starizona Slider for each.
Inititially I bought a second M48 tilt plate, second hand for £20. Two of the holes in the tilt plate line up with two of the four mounting holes in the OAG-L. This could then be fitted to an M48 male to M48 male adaptor which could then be screwed to my Starizona filter slider. If your Filter Wheel has M42 threads then find an M48M/M42M adaptor instead.
I bought an M2.5 tap and accompanying drill. Using the two spare holes for positioning, I drilled and tapped two new threads in the tilt plate which gave me four fixings. This is fine for an SCT because there is back space to play with but may put you beyond the usual 55mm back focus, say on a refractor. It also means the guide camera needs an extra 5mm spacing to obtain focus, more on that later.
Having gone that far I plucked up the courage and drilled and tapped four holes directly into the Starizona Filter Slider. The two are bolted together and can be seen in the picture below. These are modular by design so I was able to take the top plate off and if I got it wrong, a new top plate can be purchased seperately.
ZWO do sell an adaptor plate to connect to the OAG-L without a filter wheel. It allows you to fit a filter but I didn't like the look of it as a solution. You would need to completely disasemble it to change the filter if I am looking at it correctly.
https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/product/zwo-m54-adapter-replacing-efwI am surprised they do not offer other solutions, ideally an adaptor with zero back focus.
Be warned if you are thinking of using the ZWO adaptor and then fitting your filter wheel to that. The distance between your camera sensor and the prism will then be so great that probably wont obtain focus in the guide camera so consideration should be given to that distance. The helical focuser holding the gude camera cannot be removed so you cannot add spacing between it and the OAG housing. In my case, I needed to add 2or 3mm and so slid a 5mm parfocal ring (very cheap) over the camera body which you can make out in the picture above the focuser threads.
***Disclaimer*** please don't blame me if you break your equipment, just wanted to share my thought process having gone through it

