Uranus C / ZWO 585MC for DSOs

Unless you're under really dark skies, you may not need exposures longer than 30s in most cases. Could help beat the seeing at longer focal lengths, especially when going after planetary nebula and galaxies.

Also helps in familiarizing yourself with the imaging routine if you're not able to do so with your DSLR. In my case I was using a Fuji X-T100 with no computer controlled option. I set up an off axis imaging config using my Player One Neptune-C II and ZWO ASI290MM mini. Results were promising.

One benefit of these smaller cameras that I don't see mentioned often is that they're light weight. Chances of tilt due to sag are minimal.

I had fun using my Neptune-C II for DSO. I mostly use it for planetary now, but have considered using it to get detail shots of DSO and combining with wider field data.

Have you considered getting a ASI533MC (not Pro), i.e. the uncooled model?

Looking at the specs, the ASI533 has the same dark-current at 10C that a ASI1600 has at -10C. Coupled with the fact that it's amp-glow free that makes it very attractive for DSO.

I would never invest in an astro-specific camera with the intention of doing long exposure DSO imaging that isn't cooled. 

You dont need to cool much to get tremendous noise benefits, not to mention consistent and accurate calibration files.  The difference between a cooled and non-cooled astrocam is not subtle. 

If I was to use a non-cooled astrocam, it would just be a dslr.

No offense, but have you actually compared datasheets for the IMX533 based sensors? Even uncooled the noise characteristics are superior to a cooled ASI1600 at 20K below ambient. Your point about the calibration files is a valid one, but much less critical considering how well-behaved the recent sensors are.

In the end it boils down to what the OP wants. Even a modern uncooled camera will be a big improvement compared to his older DSLR. TEC cooling is a significant price adder and you have the added complexity of more power supplies and possible sensor frosting. For casual imaging he might be totally fine.

For high-performance imaging, sure. No way an uncooled camera would be good for this. But not everybody has the same set of intentions

Jesco:

I would never invest in an astro-specific camera with the intention of doing long exposure DSO imaging that isn't cooled. 

You dont need to cool much to get tremendous noise benefits, not to mention consistent and accurate calibration files.  The difference between a cooled and non-cooled astrocam is not subtle. 

If I was to use a non-cooled astrocam, it would just be a dslr.

No offense, but have you actually compared datasheets for the IMX533 based sensors? Even uncooled the noise characteristics are superior to a cooled ASI1600 at 20K below ambient. Your point about the calibration files is a valid one, but much less critical considering how well-behaved the recent sensors are.

In the end it boils down to what the OP wants. Even a modern uncooled camera will be a big improvement compared to his older DSLR. TEC cooling is a significant price adder and you have the added complexity of more power supplies and possible sensor frosting. For casual imaging he might be totally fine.

For high-performance imaging, sure. No way an uncooled camera would be good for this. But not everybody has the same set of intentions

*** BTW my dslr is 2022 new a 250D so 2018 sensor with 3-2electrons of read noise, and this is for my lets call it ultra fast portable rig (SWSA + 200mm f2,8 )  , im using a G4 - 9000 (cooling to -20) as my main shooter but found that new CMOS are just better optimised (less noise per temp) so you can get away with non cooled last model sensors , im mainly considering this because i found that im shooting mainly widefield nebulae which are heavily Ha and my good dslr is stock (again no plan to mod it ), thats why im considering something like a Uranus C , the 533 is a great option but i think its still too expensive for an uncooled camera (at least here), and im a semi heavy user given that im basically travelling to shoot unless im doing it in the summer where i live basically at the observatory ***

Unless you're under really dark skies, you may not need exposures longer than 30s in most cases. Could help beat the seeing at longer focal lengths, especially when going after planetary nebula and galaxies.

Also helps in familiarizing yourself with the imaging routine if you're not able to do so with your DSLR. In my case I was using a Fuji X-T100 with no computer controlled option. I set up an off axis imaging config using my Player One Neptune-C II and ZWO ASI290MM mini. Results were promising.

One benefit of these smaller cameras that I don't see mentioned often is that they're light weight. Chances of tilt due to sag are minimal.

I had fun using my Neptune-C II for DSO. I mostly use it for planetary now, but have considered using it to get detail shots of DSO and combining with wider field data.

Buy the ASI585MC... go to Rouzastro and buy a 12volt cooling kit for 70 USD.  Then you have the Starvis2 NIR advantage at a much lower cost.  Point 2, we all wait to see what does next generation tech given and how is price / performance.  While you use the 585, in 1-2 seasons from now, you'll see +26MP sensors with Starvis2 or better, and then you should upgrade to a cooled.