Asi 183 mm pro and amp glow.

Hello .
I'm looking for new camera only for NB imaging. I have got asi 1600 mcc for rgb , 1600 mmc is too expensive for me . I have an idea to conect new camera with samyang 135 f2 . I'm afraid of amp glow ( I had asi178mmc) . Is it a problem of asi 183 mmpro?

Hi, i dont know the ASI183, but i got the QHY183. There is Amp Glow. It can be removed if calibrated properly (use darks of identical exposure, dont scale them), however some extra noise will remain.

I have an ZWO ASI 183. I do Darks, Bias and Flats. I STACK with APP and this software works fine, but PI and DSS not.

I've got the QHY 183. There's amp glow, and it's wicked, but as long as you take your darks at the same temperature as your lights, it will calibrate out completely. I use DSS and have never had a problem… except that time I didn't set my temperature for the lights correctly. Make sure that 'dark optimization' is unchecked. In my experience, it seems to work better with dark flats than bias. The uncooled version of this camera is worthless for DSO imaging in my opinion, because you won't be able to calibrate out the amp glow perfectly.

I have the 183c. Amp glow is very prevalent. I learned that unchecking dark optimization AND not using bias frames gives me excellent results using DSS.

I had an Altair 183C, it wasn't bad for lunar but i really did not like it otherwise.

In tests done with some friends with both colour and mono versions we concluded a DSLR was a better widefield camera.

For mono i would look at other options including used cameras.

I have also have a 178MC. I think the amp glow on the 183 was more of an issue given its possible uses.

Thank you for your attentive words.

i have the Altair Astro 183 C/M IMX chip ( same as ZWO/QHY) and the amp glow is minimal, what people are referring to here is the electroluminescence starburst on the right inherent in all the Sony BSI chips. propper darks removes all of it in PI or APP , but not as much in DSS sometimes.

Mitch Arsenault:
what people are referring to here is the electroluminescence starburst on the right

Hi Mitch,

how do you conclude it's electroluminescence? Wouldnt the starburst depend on the pixel charge, if it was?

This starburst seems not to build up linearly with time, otherwise dark frames could be scaled after bias correction. Moreovet, the calibration result shouldnt depend on the software. If you get different results using DSS than using PI, you do not perform identical operations. Thats an issue i do not understand. Sure there wasnt some sort of optimization option enabled?

CS Hoschie

The Algorithms for dark calibrations in PI vs Astro pixel processor and DSS are completely different according to the owners ( APP, Mabula H) for instance.
As to the electro,,,,, i got this from the technicians from the UK of Altair Astro designers of the AA183C based on the Sony chip.
the Amp glow is at the top and bottom only … not on the right hand side like the ASI1600MM .
To me this is not a problem… others hate this camera because of the electrolum….

Amp glow, star burst. There is a lot of it either way. Removing that much asks the question what signal is not being captured or retained.

This aside I just did not find the images produced on DSO to be worth the cost.

My advice would be to look at all of the Widefield images from the 135mm F2 and say the Nikon 180mm F2.8 etc and see which cameras are giving results you like.

Rob

Mitch Arsenault:
As to the electro,,,,, i got this from the technicians from the UK of Altair Astro designers of the AA183C based on the Sony chip.the Amp glow is at the top and bottom only … not on the right hand side like the ASI1600MM

They are built and purchased from the far east, not designed in the UK. Check the SDK file and you will see a familiar name.

Marek,

I now use an Atik CCD with built in filter wheel. Appreciate these are over your budget although you may pick up something similar used.

This link (QHY) i feel gives a reasonable appraisal of camera sensors and uses.

https://www.qhyccd.com/index.php?m=content&c=index&a=lists&catid=102

Thank all of you for reply. I have decided to buy used atik 320 e mono. (only 400e). I would like to conect tha atik to samyang 135 f2.

I use my Atik one 6.0 with a camera lens attached.

Both on my pier and on an Astrotrac while away.

That does give an advantage in that an arca plate or dovetail can screw to the camera housing.

I just use a Nikon F mount to M42 adapter plus an M42 spacer for the correct sensor to lens spacing.

For longer or heavier lens i Use a carriage made up from arca parts.

You will need to check your spacing to see what filter wheels may fit. Or use one of the ready made units sold that include a filter draw. You can buy these in canon or nikon fit. Not the geoptik version.

A simple form for checking the FOV will be what you want.

Dont worry about hitting a sampling rate of 2. It wont happen on widefield images
https://www.bintel.com.au/tools/astronomy-calculator/

For supporting a heavier lens i use one of these. Camera to m42 - lens mount adapter. Then fitted to this.

The lens support part can be spun around to change the amount of clearance depending on how high the lens sits.

This then fit direct to the Arca head on the Astrotrac and enables balancing.

For my main mount I have a solid dovetail. On one end a heavy duty arca plate. The other a mount for my guidescope.

Andoer L200 Telephoto Lens Support Long Lens Holder Bracket Height Adjustable Compatible for Arca-Swiss Sunwayfoto RRS Benro Kirk Markins Mount https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B074PQFDS5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ba6GCbF40J9RG

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