Equipment for astrophotography on a 6K budget

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lloydjax avatar
Hey all!  I have dabbled in astrophotography a bit in the past, but am basically a novice.  I have set aside a budget of $6k for an astrophotography setup.  I'm looking for suggestions on what equipment to buy/add to what i have below, so that I have the best/most complete set up possible for my budget. 

I already have:
ZWO ASI294MC Pro
ZWO ASI 120 Color 
Sky-Watcher EVOGUIDE 50ED
Laptop computer
Photoshop & some freeware stacking software
Battery Packs to run the mount and laptops

I would like to mainly image DSOs and planets (to a much lesser extent).  I live in rural South Dakota if that matters.

Any input on equipment, such as scopes or mounts or cables, etc would be very appreciated.

Jason
andrea tasselli avatar
You need a mount, a decent one that you may sell down the line for one reason or another. People swear by the EQ6-R  but I'd prefer the Ioptron GEM45 which I think is in a better class. Whatever you choose don't skimp on it. Secondly I'd get a 6"/8" f/4 newtonian of good quality. Not sure what is available in the US but I'd avoid the ordinary chinese stuff. Teleskop Service may have resellers in the US and I'd recommend their UNC line. You'd need a coma corrector so get a TS GPU or equivalent. If you need to go for planets just add a barlow and you're done. That is basically it. The rest you already have.
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Blaine Gibby avatar
I too live in rural South Dakota, about an hour west of Sioux Falls. I’m sorry about the weather, it’s been this way ever since my 2600mc came in the mail…

I’d recommend the skywatcher EQ6 pro for a mount. They are about $2k. I get excellent guiding in the 0.4 to 0.5” RMS error range quite frequently. 

I’ve also had great results with the skywatcher triple apo refractors. I use the 120 with a 0.7x reducer. 

If you are going to upgrade your scope or camera make sure you check with the CCD suitability calculators online.
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lloydjax avatar
Very cool.  I'm about 45 minutes north of Sioux Falls.  This weather… WIND and rain has been atrocious! I appreciate the inputs so far!
vercastro avatar
The best next thing to buy would be at minimum an EQ6R-Pro, and a 100mm+ refactor. With your budget you could get an Esprit 100, maybe 120. Or you could get something with a little more focal length and no need for a flatterer (and backspacing headache) like the Askar 107PHQ, which is getting great reviews. If you want something more premium, aim for a Stellarvue. If you're more adventurous, like tinkering and enjoy spikes, you could go the other route and get something like a 200mm Quattro Newtonian, or similar imaging newt. But a refractor will be easier to use.

Also you might be interested in going mono. The upcoming 533MM will be a great affordable option. But if you want more FOV the 268M/2600MM is the sweet spot. Budget for a set of Antlia LRGBSHO filters and 36mm filter wheel. The costly Chroma and Astrodon's are not required to get excellent results these days.

Unfortunately planetary and DSO are completely different sports. You may be better off buying a cheap SCT just for planetary. You can put one on the EQ6 easily.
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Stephan Linhart avatar
Hi Jason,

welcome to the team. There have been already great tips.

There are several EQ6R in our group and all perform very well. So it seems to be a reliable performer, and that is all you will want.

Regarding scopes, this is a tough one.
As a beginner ( and even advanced photographer) stay away from refractors with reducers. Most of them will cause grief with spacing and tilt.
And don‘t go cheap on refractors, or be tempted by nice anodising.

With your budget you van even have a look on the premium used market, which will be perhaps the best choice and a used premium scope most likely will keep its value.

On the other hand, personnally I would recommend a F5 Newtonian. 6“ or 8“.
F5 is less critical in collimation and focusing and still faster than most refractors.
A solidly built Newtonian (like TS Photo Newton or Lacerta Newton ohne Namen) will give you much better stars than 80% of the refractors out there.

Diffraction Spikes on a Newtonian may put some people off, I do like them.

What else Do I recommend:
ASIAIR Pro Since you already have ASI Cameras
Dual Narrowband Filter (Idas NBZ for example)
Motor Fokus, makes life a lot easier, as you can keep the scope running and you can go to sleep

If you do not intend to use ASIAIR, I strongly suggest a combined power/ USB distribution box.
You van built these yourself or buy a sophisticated one. Pegasus Astro builds good ones.

Software:
A sequencer such as NINA or SGPro if you don’t want to use ASIair.
Pixinsight license together with the book A deep sky imaging primer from Charles Bracken.

So these were my 2 cents and hope it helps.

Cheers from northern Germany

Stephan
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Steven avatar
Mount:
EQ6-R seems like a good option. Or something similar in capacity and price from Ioptron. 
You could go the ZWO route and go for their new AM5, but this is so new, that there isn't much information yet on its performance, and it's a bit costly compared to others.

Scope:
One thing to keep in mind here is your camera. the 294MC has quite large pixels.
Pixelsize determines what focal length is best suited to be used. Simply put: if you use a very short focal length with large pixels, the stars and details will be smaller than the pixels and you don't have enough pixels to capture the details. Or if you're using too long a focal length, you're using "too many" pixels to capture those details, meaning you might have to expose for longer to get enough detail and light into those pixels.  So the range you probably want to stick in with the 294MC is about 450-1500mm, (you can go higher for planetary)

I'd consider getting 2 scopes as usually 1 scope isn't enough to do both DSO AND planetary, there isn't a 1 trick pony out there.
As most DSO's work great at <500mm, but planetary requires 1500mm+. And being in the middle of those 2, usually means you can't capture a full nebula in your frame.

Closest to the one trick pony would perhaps be a Celestron EdgeHD 8, with the Starizona Hyperstar conversion on it. This gives you both the 1600-2000mm for planetary and the 400-ish mm F2 scope for DSO in one. It probably is the closest you'll get to having 1 scope doing it "all" - But, it's not as easy to use as normal refractors/reflectors. So, as a beginner this perhaps isn't a good starting point.

So I would suggest 2 scopes. to cover a range of focal lengths. 
The shorter focal length ones have a huge selection at the 400-500mm mark. The Skywatcher Esprit 100 is very good. But might leave less of a budget for anything else after purchasing a mount+ the esprit.
As for the long focal length, most APO's will get very very costly.  So you're probably then looking at Newtonians, Cassegrain, Ritchey-Chertien scopes. Usually providing high focal lengths, decent aperture and good bang for your buck. Skywatcher, Celestron, Omegon, TSoptics, loads of brands have good options here. - Or you could go for a Maksutov design, they tend to be very cheap, but are only really useful for visual and planetary - while the others would also allow you to image galaxies. 

Don't forget that most scopes will need field flatteners or correctors. Some can be costly. 


Cables:
wait till you have everything set up. And then start measuring how long your cables need to be, especially on the scope.
Often the camera's and accessories come with 6ft long cables that you don't always need. So.. investing in a bunch of 1-2ft cables helps a lot to get rid of a lot of the clutter. 


Filters:
Quad, tri, dual band filters are the way to go for a colour camera.
Antlia makes a dual band one that is getting good reviews. Optolong makes the L-Enhance/L-Extreme ones that are great.
Loads of other manufacturers are of course available. Also, get a more "wide" filter. something like the L-Pro, works great to get some "real" colour on moon-less nights.

Also, consider going a size up on the filters. Right now you might be fine with 1.25" filters. But, consider possible upgrades.
Maybe you'll go for a ZWO ASI 2600MC/MM in the future, then you'll need 36mm filters. It is possibly worth biting the bullet now and sizing up now, instead of having to buy filters now, and new filters again in the future. 
(I could have saved quite a bit of money by future-proofing my purchases a little more)


Others:
Don't forget that all the "other" bits and bobs cost too. 
Adapters, rings, Barlows. Filterwheels/drawers, Dew heaters, etc.
You also may want to consider things like a Electronic Focuser, 

Software:
consider using a part of that budget for pixinsight.  It's very powerful with editing astrophotography. I've been able to pull out more of my data with pixinsight than photoshop.
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kuechlew avatar
Not much to add to the recommendations of the other fellow astrobiners. I support the hint to go for one good scope for the DSOs and cover the planets by extending the reach with barlows. An 8" f4 sounds like a good choice for both. For this focal length a focuser should help a lot. Scope + good Barlow + focuser + minor stuff like dew heaters, cables etc will leave you with about 3 grand for a good mount.

Clear skies
Wolfgang
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Markus A. R. Langlotz avatar
I would again buy (and recommend) what i have:

A Skywatcher 190/1000 Maksutov newtonian - very good at moon and planets, and quite good at deep sky without the need of any corrector.
I would sit that scope on an EQ6-R. The scope and the mount would consume 3k on budget and also perfectly match your 294MC Pro. (I have the same camera).
Adding a motrized focusser and a dual narrowband filter will bring this up to 3k5 and makes life a lot easier.

CS

Markus
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Marc avatar
EQ6-R + Skywatcher Esprit 100 is a super solid foundation, I think. 

That said, with that you are already around or over 4k$. So that wouldn't leave that much money for a camera to match the APO. Personally, I have a QHY268m with a set of Astronomik Filters - which I can warmly recommend. But that's another 3-4k$, so a tad over your budget. The OSC version is cheaper of course, if you want to "compromise" in that way.
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Torben van Hees avatar
You already have the camera and for many, many scopes the 294 will be well-matched. It’s still a good chip. The M4/3 format and bigger pixels make it easier on the optical quality of the scope, too. I wouldn‘t swap it just yet, not even for mono. Be aware that your guiding cam will be marginal on many OAG setups recommended above. 

As you‘re a beginner, I‘ld advise you not to go with a mirrored scope. It adds moving (deliberately and accidentally moving) parts to an already complex setup. I also advise to not start with a focal length >800mm.

The mount is the most important part of your equipment. The second most important thing is stability. So you want something sturdy, with a good focuser. I would not compromise because of delivery times. You did not say where you would set up, this is important.

Higher f-Ratio makes many things easier (tilt, focusing, backspacing) but needs a bit better guiding. With the 294MC, read noise is no problem, so subexposures will not be very long unless you have very dark skies. I would not skimp overly on the scope, but optical quality is secondary to mechanical construction. 

If you set up in the backyard or a parking lot, my list would be, for a serious, very versatile setup, with good optical performance (despite what I wrote above):
- iOptron Cem-70 for future-proofing ($3.2k). You can not overmount. 
- Askar 107PHQ ($2.5k, no flattener needed)
- If in the backyard and not the tropics: A Telegizmos 365 cover ($200). 
- If in LP a good dual narrowband LP filter (stretch for Idas NBZ or L-Extreme, or marginally in budget with L-Enhance). Don‘t buy cheap here, you get what you pay for.

If you value more portability, you need a lighter mount (RST-135, no counterweights) on a tripod (RT-90C) and a smaller scope (70-90mm triplett: TS CF 70mm with flattener, 76EDPH, 91EDPH. They are ok to good. There is no „great“ option at this aperture in your budget): This will be portable in a backpack.

If you disregard my warnings about mirrors, get a premium 6“ f/5 Newtonian: Ok to collimate, not too long focal length, light, still portable. 8“ f/6 can work, too, but needs more care for stability and is prone to sway with wind. Put the saved money into a good coma corrector, a premium focuser, and an OAG with a better guidecam (IMX290 or, better, IMX174).

Let the shop you buy from test the optics and mount before sending them. Saves a lot of hassle.
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