I've seen people physically affixing wire/string to their telescope to create diffraction spikes. I have also read that it can be done in post-processing. Which method is easiest/preferred?
If you absolutely must have spikes on your refractor or SCT images, there are three ways:
1) StarSpikesPro, which costs $36.
2) The string trick, or better yet, a 3D printed set of vanes to put over your objective.
3) Buy a Newt or RC instead. Then you won't be able to get rid of the spikes like Andrea.
I have tried StarSpikesPro, and it helped a few images that had soft stars or color aberrations that I wanted to cover up. However, it is quite tricky to get the spikes to look natural, as if they came from the telescope itself. I have also tried crossed strings over the corrector plate of my SCT, but the spikes were plain white and added nothing to the image cosmetically.
At the end of the day, most people say they would rather not have spikes, but I'm not sure everyone practices what they preach. I noticed a slight preference for images with spikes in Top Picks selections, having served as a reviewer last year. It's especially true for images featuring open clusters, which lose their sparkle without the spikes. It's also more difficult to criticize flat-top star cores or slightly non-round stars when spikes are covering them up. Hope I don't anger anyone by planting these suggestions, but there is some truth in them.
Robert Winslow:
I left my Bahtinov mask on once. Boy, did I get diffraction spikes.
andrea tasselli:
I wish I knew how to get rid of them though.
I've seen people physically affixing wire/string to their telescope to create diffraction spikes. I have also read that it can be done in post-processing. Which method is easiest/preferred?
Star Spikes Pro 4, as a PS Plug-in
Dale Penkala:
I’m one of the odd ones that absolutely loves the defraction spikes on images. (I shoot mostly with newt’s and currently have 8, 10 & 12” instrument's although if my 12” performs as expected I may be getting rid of the 8 & 10, but we will see) Anyway to me there is just something visually appealing to them. I do have a secondary setup that I’m rebuilding that will have a 6” mak-newt and an 80mm refractor for wide field images.
Dale