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Cable management for newbies/people on a budget

Unspecified/unknown company Tripod Equipment Power Supply DIY
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Andy Wray avatar
Andy Wray avatar
I just wanted to share what I've done in terms of power supply/cable management in case it helps anyone on a tight budget.  Basically it goes like this:

* I only run two cables from my study:  a power extension cable and an active USB
* I have mounted all the power supplies for everything (camera, guider, mount, USB 3 hub etc.) with cable ties on the tripod
* Two cables run up to the mount head (power and EQDirect cable)
* Four cables run up to the tube rings (Main camera power, main camera USB, guide camera USB and focusser external temp probe)
* for any moving cables, I have wrapped them in an expanding mesh so they don't snag

It basically means that, if I strip this down I only take off six connections ... four from the OTA and two from the mount head.  All the cables, power supplies, USB hub stay either connected to the tripod or the tube mount rings when I carry it back in.

I can't afford an ASIair or a dedicated 12V power distribution system and supply and, when I look at those things, they would only save me one moving cable and add quite a bit more payload weight.

N.B. Filter wheel and focusser are powered by the camera, so those cables never need removing.

Oh, and before you say it, I do need to cut the grass/hose down the patio etc., but AP comes first I'm afraid.



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D. Jung avatar
D. Jung avatar
A good way to get rid of "cable salad" is to install a mini PC on the scope itself. You can have short cables from the camera/focuser/guide go directly to the PC and you need only one power cable up the mount (with y-splitter so you can power heat straps and camera). Bonus, you can run everything on the PC and only connect via RDP for setting up. Nina has a nice web plugin so you can check on your phone if all is running fine.
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Robert Winslow avatar
Robert Winslow avatar
Very clean and orderly.  I did not even think to use some wire mesh.  I am using RealVNC to access my control laptop from the house.  It allows me to access the machine from anywhere, and from any OS.
Andy Wray avatar
Andy Wray avatar
D. Jung:
A good way to get rid of "cable salad" is to install a mini PC on the scope itself. You can have short cables from the camera/focuser/guide go directly to the PC and you need only one power cable up the mount (with y-splitter so you can power heat straps and camera). Bonus, you can run everything on the PC and only connect via RDP for setting up. Nina has a nice web plugin so you can check on your phone if all is running fine.

I've juggled this many ways and you have added the weight of a mini PC on the OTA and only saved one moving cable.  You still have power cables going to the mount, the main imaging camera and to the mini PC itself.  I'm not sure I would recommend using a Y-splitter on a power cable myself.  There is the benefit of the Mini PC that you can connect wirelessly to it, however in my case the wireless connectivity is not good enough.

Please bear in mind I was aiming my post at people who are really strapped on a budget, so even the cost of adding a mini PC could be too much.
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Andy Wray avatar
Andy Wray avatar
Robert Winslow:
Very clean and orderly.  I did not even think to use some wire mesh.  I am using RealVNC to access my control laptop from the house.  It allows me to access the machine from anywhere, and from any OS.

I am tempted to have a separate control PC outside that I can access either wired or wirelessly, however being budget-constrained I am using my main PC to control it from inside; mind you, the cost of the long active USB cable I've used probably approaches the cost of a mini-PC.
Andy Wray avatar
Andy Wray avatar
Robert Winslow:
Very clean and orderly.  I did not even think to use some wire mesh.  I am using RealVNC to access my control laptop from the house.  It allows me to access the machine from anywhere, and from any OS.

This worked really well: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FW3GTXB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

It's great because you don't have to feed wires through it because it is split.  Just wrap it round your wires.
Dale Penkala avatar
Dale Penkala avatar
Andy Wray:
Robert Winslow:
Very clean and orderly.  I did not even think to use some wire mesh.  I am using RealVNC to access my control laptop from the house.  It allows me to access the machine from anywhere, and from any OS.

This worked really well: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FW3GTXB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

It's great because you don't have to feed wires through it because it is split.  Just wrap it round your wires.

Thats I really cool idea, I’m going to see what I can find for that on my rig!

Dale
Robert Winslow avatar
Robert Winslow avatar
Dale Penkala:
Andy Wray:
Robert Winslow:
Very clean and orderly.  I did not even think to use some wire mesh.  I am using RealVNC to access my control laptop from the house.  It allows me to access the machine from anywhere, and from any OS.

This worked really well: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FW3GTXB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

It's great because you don't have to feed wires through it because it is split.  Just wrap it round your wires.

Thats I really cool idea, I’m going to see what I can find for that on my rig!

Dale

Yes very cool idea, shocked I did not think if it as I use that stuff all the time for, cable management. O_o, mine is ordered and will be here today.
Christopher Davenport avatar
Christopher Davenport avatar
https://cdn.astrobin.com/ckeditor-files/112222/2022/f618f2fe-2731-4370-83d6-6e0c51495233.jpg

Some ideas for you:
1.) Mount your USB Hub on the telescope.
(All items connect to the hub and single USB goes to Computer.)

2.) Mount small computer with control software on mount or on scope.
(ASI Air, or a Nuc with Indi, or Other with Remote desktop connection.)

3.) Get a 100w Power supply and run single lead up to mount / telescope.
(Split cable into multiple sources at the telescope, I soldered the cable joins and then taped them, so that they allow enough amps through.)

4.) Use Hifi Mesh cable ties, to bundle together multiple cords.
(This helps many usb and power cables to act as a single thicker cable.)

Hope this helps.
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Andy Wray avatar
Andy Wray avatar
Christopher Davenport:
https://cdn.astrobin.com/ckeditor-files/112222/2022/f618f2fe-2731-4370-83d6-6e0c51495233.jpg

Some ideas for you:
1.) Mount your USB Hub on the telescope.
(All items connect to the hub and single USB goes to Computer.)

2.) Mount small computer with control software on mount or on scope.
(ASI Air, or a Nuc with Indi, or Other with Remote desktop connection.)

3.) Get a 100w Power supply and run single lead up to mount / telescope.
(Split cable into multiple sources at the telescope, I soldered the cable joins and then taped them, so that they allow enough amps through.)

4.) Use Hifi Mesh cable ties, to bundle together multiple cords.
(This helps many usb and power cables to act as a single thicker cable.)

Hope this helps.

1)  I could move the hub onto the scope, but that would only save one cable and would add a little bit of extra weight to the scope and would mean swapping out OTA's would be harder
2)  See my previous post (I am tempted, but it's just a cost thing + my wireless sucks outside)
3)  I would never just split the output from a power supply physically in the way you suggest.  If you want to blow up all your equipment at once if there is a short somewhere then feel free
4)  Yep, already doing this for any moving cables; no point in doing this for cables that are "static". It might look neater/prettier, but won't technically improve anything.

Your setup does look incredibly neat and tidy and much better than mine to be honest.  My suggestion to others is to work out how you minimize the number of "moving" cables as much as possible whilst not adding a lot of extra load on your scope.  Once you've done that, then bundle those cables in some kind of mesh sleeve so that they don't catch on anything.
Dale Penkala avatar
Dale Penkala avatar
Robert Winslow:
Dale Penkala:
Andy Wray:
Robert Winslow:
Very clean and orderly.  I did not even think to use some wire mesh.  I am using RealVNC to access my control laptop from the house.  It allows me to access the machine from anywhere, and from any OS.

This worked really well: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FW3GTXB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

It's great because you don't have to feed wires through it because it is split.  Just wrap it round your wires.

Thats I really cool idea, I’m going to see what I can find for that on my rig!

Dale

Yes very cool idea, shocked I did not think if it as I use that stuff all the time for, cable management. O_o, mine is ordered and will be here today.

Ordered mine today as well! 😊
Andy Wray avatar
Andy Wray avatar
Dale Penkala:
Robert Winslow:
Dale Penkala:
Andy Wray:
Robert Winslow:
Very clean and orderly.  I did not even think to use some wire mesh.  I am using RealVNC to access my control laptop from the house.  It allows me to access the machine from anywhere, and from any OS.

This worked really well: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FW3GTXB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

It's great because you don't have to feed wires through it because it is split.  Just wrap it round your wires.

Thats I really cool idea, I’m going to see what I can find for that on my rig!

Dale

Yes very cool idea, shocked I did not think if it as I use that stuff all the time for, cable management. O_o, mine is ordered and will be here today.

Ordered mine today as well! 😊

When you cut it, you have to seal the ends with a cigarette lighter or a candle or something similar, otherwise it will fray
Dale Penkala avatar
Dale Penkala avatar
Andy Wray:
Dale Penkala:
Robert Winslow:
Dale Penkala:
Andy Wray:
Robert Winslow:
Very clean and orderly.  I did not even think to use some wire mesh.  I am using RealVNC to access my control laptop from the house.  It allows me to access the machine from anywhere, and from any OS.

This worked really well: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FW3GTXB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

It's great because you don't have to feed wires through it because it is split.  Just wrap it round your wires.

Thats I really cool idea, I’m going to see what I can find for that on my rig!

Dale

Yes very cool idea, shocked I did not think if it as I use that stuff all the time for, cable management. O_o, mine is ordered and will be here today.

Ordered mine today as well! 😊

When you cut it, you have to seal the ends with a cigarette lighter or a candle or something similar, otherwise it will fray

Thanks for the heads up @Andy Wray
Robert Winslow avatar
Robert Winslow avatar
Well, they made for a very clean setup.
Dale Penkala avatar
Dale Penkala avatar
Robert Winslow:
Well, they made for a very clean setup.

Very nice!  Got mine today, but I plan to pull my 10" newt off and put on my 12" f5 I got back from Spectrum Coatings this weekend and will redo all my wiring with this stuff! I'll post too!

Dale
TiffsAndAstro avatar
TiffsAndAstro avatar
Andy Wray:
I just wanted to share what I've done in terms of power supply/cable management in case it helps anyone on a tight budget.  Basically it goes like this:

* I only run two cables from my study:  a power extension cable and an active USB
* I have mounted all the power supplies for everything (camera, guider, mount, USB 3 hub etc.) with cable ties on the tripod
* Two cables run up to the mount head (power and EQDirect cable)
* Four cables run up to the tube rings (Main camera power, main camera USB, guide camera USB and focusser external temp probe)
* for any moving cables, I have wrapped them in an expanding mesh so they don't snag

It basically means that, if I strip this down I only take off six connections ... four from the OTA and two from the mount head.  All the cables, power supplies, USB hub stay either connected to the tripod or the tube mount rings when I carry it back in.

I can't afford an ASIair or a dedicated 12V power distribution system and supply and, when I look at those things, they would only save me one moving cable and add quite a bit more payload weight.

N.B. Filter wheel and focusser are powered by the camera, so those cables never need removing.

Oh, and before you say it, I do need to cut the grass/hose down the patio etc., but AP comes first I'm afraid.






I have a premium accessory plate on my tripod. Handy for a spare counter weight, 8 socket mains extension cable and sandwiches ;)
Ed Dixon avatar
Ed Dixon avatar
I used to have a setup that was similar to this.  I have recently changed to a totally WiFi based rig, which I like much better. 

My normal imaging is done at home with the scope gear on the front patio.  After setup, I do all control and slew commands from a desktop PC in the dining room which is about 30 feet away.  I use a HEM27 mount that has a permanent powered USB hub on one tripod leg.  A single hub USB3 cable carries all scope functions (cameras, mount, guiding, focus, etc) which connects to a miniPC on the floor.  Previously I ran both power and ethernet cables to the scope location.  This worked well and was very fast in response. 

Today I use a Jackery power box for all power and it sits under the mount.  I added a GL.iNet GL-MT3000 Wifi access point to the setup which allows total WiFi access to the scope and all functions.  I can connect to this using my iPhone, iPad, or desktop.  Response is also very fast, almost like when it was all direct wired. 

With this setup I can move the mount another 50 feet up the hill.  That gives me more access to different parts of the sky, which still works quite well on WiFi.  In each case there are zero wires that leave the 3 foot circle around the scope.  Setup and tear down is faster as there are fewer wires and things to move. 

I tried a different Wifi approach last year using the ZWO ASIAIR.  While that worked, response was very slow and just lagged far too much for my taste.
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Ruediger avatar
Ruediger avatar
I can see a reoccurring mistake in all wirings:

There is always drag on the USB ports. You should ALWAYS fixate the cable in such a way, that gravity/weight of the cable or mount movement is not pulling on the USB sockets. Quickly the contacts get lose or even crack and you will suffer from random disconnects. Dangling cables also introduce a changing force on the focuser and therefore changing tilt. 

You can use Velcros or 3D printer cable holders to remove any drag from the USB ports.

Example:

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Dale Penkala avatar
Dale Penkala avatar
Ruediger:
I can see a reoccurring mistake in all wirings:

There is always drag on the USB ports. You should ALWAYS fixate the cable in such a way, that gravity/weight of the cable or mount movement is not pulling on the USB sockets. Quickly the contacts get lose or even crack and you will suffer from random disconnects. Dangling cables also introduce a changing force on the focuser and therefore changing tilt. 

You can use Velcros or 3D printer cable holders to remove any drag from the USB ports.

Example:


I agree totally Ruediger, I’ve always been concerned about the stress on any of the usb ports and any ports for that matter. I designed and 3D printed my own cable support that attaches to the body of the camera. I made this originally for my 294 but modified it to accommodate multiple body sizes. The biggest body is for my 2600mc pro.

Dale

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BryanHudson avatar
BryanHudson avatar
Andy Wray:
I just wanted to share what I've done in terms of power supply/cable management in case it helps anyone on a tight budget.  Basically it goes like this:

* I only run two cables from my study:  a power extension cable and an active USB
* I have mounted all the power supplies for everything (camera, guider, mount, USB 3 hub etc.) with cable ties on the tripod
* Two cables run up to the mount head (power and EQDirect cable)
* Four cables run up to the tube rings (Main camera power, main camera USB, guide camera USB and focusser external temp probe)
* for any moving cables, I have wrapped them in an expanding mesh so they don't snag

It basically means that, if I strip this down I only take off six connections ... four from the OTA and two from the mount head.  All the cables, power supplies, USB hub stay either connected to the tripod or the tube mount rings when I carry it back in.

I can't afford an ASIair or a dedicated 12V power distribution system and supply and, when I look at those things, they would only save me one moving cable and add quite a bit more payload weight.

N.B. Filter wheel and focusser are powered by the camera, so those cables never need removing.

Oh, and before you say it, I do need to cut the grass/hose down the patio etc., but AP comes first I'm afraid.




That's a very good looking set up!
I do 4 different rigs on my ZWO AM3 using ASIAir Plus. For me, I want to ensure that none of the cables will hang up when slewing, so I do a test before I begin imaging with a given rig.
if I used pre-routed cables, it would not work for my different set ups. I never have a problem with my cables, but I would not share a photo---it would only invite criticism. :-)
So I think "cable management" is sometimes about sharing photographs of the setups.
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IrishAstro4484 avatar
IrishAstro4484 avatar
Cable management? What is this black magic you speak of!