Good to read through this thread. I had also seen the youtube video and decided I wanted the baffle extension for my truss RC10A. (I also have the CF tube RC8 and truss RC12A.) For the RC10A if a DSO target had a nearby out-of-frame bright star I sometimes saw the tell-tale signs of light ingress; but more seriously and importantly I wasn't aware that it was probably screwing up my flats all this time on all targets.
So I have some information that some of you may find useful.
1) Recent RC8 models don't have the problem because GSO has for some years used a longer baffle. Only the older models (which look identical on the outside) have shorter baffles. I've collected huge volumes of captures with my 2 year old RC8 and had zero problems with light ingress (in contrast to my experiences with a newer RC10A). So if you have an RC8, then you need to measure the baffle and compare with the table in the video to know if you really need an extension. Also this is information is corroborated by TS mentioning that the baffle design on
new RC8 models have been fixed on their website.
2) The RC10A needs the extension and as recommended
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5174299/files is perfect. I've tested the extension and the performance improvement for test flats completely floored me.
3) With any 3D model on thingiverse there are plenty of services to get these printed. However, I got frustrated waiting for a quote and general tardiness of service (in Australia). So I bought a 3D printer and found it easy to setup and even easier to use. So easy to use that my 9 year old is designing and printing things. I started with zero experience with 3D printers and basically had the baffle printed within 48 hours. Good 3D printers are cheap, my Creality Ender 3 V2 I got for about $240 delivered.
So, in short, I recommend you buy a 3D printer. There are a plethora of things you can print to pimp your telescope.
4) The most common 3D printer filament (plastic) is called PLA and you can get a flat black color/finish. Regardless I ended up buying a cheap rechargeable electric airbrush and the excellent
nanoparticle Sennelier Mars Black (Noir de Mars) 759 acrylic paint and misted about 5 fine coats on the baffle. Both the PLA and Mars Black paint are very inexpensive.
5) I modified the design of the RC10A to suit the RC12A. My RC12A is 3rd hand and far from new. The length of the baffle extension in the video doesn't work for the RC12A I have. But I re-designed it for the distance to primary (344.3mm) given in the video and the baffle is 53.5mm long (not 44mm).
In all cases the extensions are a press fit into the end of the central baffle. You don't have to pull apart the scope just reach in and push it on. It can be removed just as easily. Just as well since it means the Mexican hat dust cover on the truss models doesn't fit with the baffle extension on. The PLA plastic is very light and surprisingly strong and stiff.
If there is interest I can include some photos.
Cheerio Rod
