ASI2600mm sudden Amp glow??

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Dan Kusz avatar
Hey everyone,
I have been using my ASI2600mm since last July with no issues. All of a sudden I am getting a terrible glow in the bottom of the frame. I resembles Amp glow but 2600mm doesn't have any. I have included a 600s frame through a Chroma 3nm OIII filter and a dark frame from the camera completely removed from thee imaging train. Both taken at -10 Celsius one day apart. I have contacted ZWO with no reply as of yet. Any thoughts on this issue, the camera is not usable with this issue.

600s OIII filter image



600s dark frame



Thanks
Dan.
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Steven avatar
Not sure what would cause that. The only issue I come across is the oil-leaking issue for the 2600 series.
But that wouldn't create such a gradient, and wouldn't be visible in the darks.

A gradient could be light leak, but I doubt it since you've taken it away from the imaging tray.. so.. doubt it.
unless something internally got knocked in some way.

Best I could suggest:

- replace USB cables 
- try a different power supply
- update any drivers/software
- perhaps try a different computer/storage

Since it's coming into the darks, I would guess it's more likely an external/software/firmware/reading/storage issue, and maybe not a sensor or camera issue. And it's not impossible for cables or storage to have degraded over time and causing issues. You'd be surprised how much can be ruined by a low quality cable. 

Obviously it's possible that those steps won't do anything, but it's where I would start. 
(if you haven't tried these things already) By doing those steps, you can, at the ver least, rule some of it out to try and pinpoint where it's coming from.
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Roger Nichol avatar
This really does look like a light leak, try taking a dark in an absolutely dark room with a cloth over it to exclude that as a possibility.
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Eddie Bagwell avatar
I agree with Roger's assessment. It looks like light leakage into your image train. I had the same problem last year. Dark room imaging would be rather easy to rule that possibility out.
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Joey Conenna avatar
Did you adjust the tilt plate leaving a gap?
Jared Willson avatar
It really does look like a light leak. I know you removed the camera from the scope, but that doesn't rule out light leaks. Try taking a dark:
- With a metal body cap on the camera (plastic sometimes lets through enough IR to be problematic); you can use a double leery of aluminum foil if necessary
- Put the camera somewhere dark and reasonably cold so the cooler doesn't have to work too hard to hit reasonable nighttime winter temps. A refrigerator works well. The rubber gaskets around the refrigerator door should protect cables from being too badly squashed

If the gradient is still there, there is something wrong with the camera. If not, you can start narrowing things down.
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Dan Kusz avatar
Roger Nichol:
This really does look like a light leak, try taking a dark in an absolutely dark room with a cloth over it to exclude that as a possibility.

I have run a dark frame with the camera removed from the imaging train in a dark room with the same result.
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andrea tasselli avatar
What does a 1s dark look like. Long long time ago I had a similar issue with a CCD. It turned out it wasn't sitting properly on the cold finger. Just an idea.
Roger Nichol avatar
Dan Kusz:
Roger Nichol:
This really does look like a light leak, try taking a dark in an absolutely dark room with a cloth over it to exclude that as a possibility.

I have run a dark frame with the camera removed from the imaging train in a dark room with the same result.

Must be something internal to the camera then... Failure of the Peltier cooler perhaps? ZWO or your distributor should fix or replace that...
Dominik Weinbrenner avatar
How does an uncooled dark look then?
Sean van Drogen avatar
only saw this once with my ASI183MM when it could not reach the set temperature during the summer
Dan Kusz avatar
Sean van Drogen:
only saw this once with my ASI183MM when it could not reach the set temperature during the summer

Interesting Sean,

when I was imaging I had my cooling set to -10 Celcius but the outside temperature was -14C. I didnt think to cool it below ambient temp, I wonder if this may be the culprit...would the system try to warm it up creating this glow? Have to do some digging in on this one, thank you!


Dan
Sean van Drogen avatar
Dan Kusz:
Sean van Drogen:
only saw this once with my ASI183MM when it could not reach the set temperature during the summer

Interesting Sean,

when I was imaging I had my cooling set to -10 Celcius but the outside temperature was -14C. I didnt think to cool it below ambient temp, I wonder if this may be the culprit...would the system try to warm it up creating this glow? Have to do some digging in on this one, thank you!


Dan

That's an interesting thought, never had the temp that low I always shoot at -15c and had to redo some darks last summer but could not reach it inside due to ambient temp. Never considered that a camera would actually heat itself to reach desired/set temp.
Nicholas Gialiris avatar
Well, I was just casually reading this post as my QHY168C doesn’t suffer from amp glow but the last comments really made me stop and wonder. 

Back in January I foolishly went out to image the Cone nebula with the ambient temp at -35C (!) and due to brain freeze was trying to set the camera to -25C. The end result was a huge light blob at the bottom right of the light frames that never happened before; I could see the QHY fighting trying to set the temp and never getting there; I suspect the warming/cooling seesaw may have caused the light glare. Not sure it is the same as what Dan has but just throwing it out there.
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Marcelof avatar
How exactly are you taking your darks? You mention using a darkroom, is it a room or a box?

I ask because these cameras need air to circulate in order to cool properly. Once when I was trying to take darks I put my camera (not the 2600) in something like a shoebox, after a while the camera was very hot because there was no air circulating. And that heat could be the cause of that glow.

Since it is very cold outside, try taking darks there by putting the telescope cap on and cooling the camera to about -10º C (actually any temperature close to 0º C is enough to do the test). And make sure that the fan is indeed spinning properly.


And to test for light leakage, point a torch at the camera/telescope during the process of taking darks, any incoming light should show up on the subs.
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