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Lucas Nomade avatar

I’m a beginner in astrophotography and own a Sony a6400 with two lenses: a Sigma 35mm and a Sony 18-105mm. I shoot using a standard tripod, but I struggle a lot with image stacking because the tripod stays fixed while the stars move; does anyone have any tips to help me with this process?

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andrea tasselli avatar

You need a tracker.

Tony Gondola avatar

Andrea is right, any kind of tracker would help. You could build something as simple as a barn door tracker all the way up to a computer controlled EQ mount.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvoH3D_vAMg&t=13s

Have fun!

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Robin Bosshard avatar

You can use Sequator or software like it to stack even untracked images to some degree. But the next step up would be a tracker for sure!

Clear skies!

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Lucas Nomade avatar

Tony Gondola · Jul 17, 2026, 04:46 PM

Andrea is right, any kind of tracker would help. You could build something as simple as a barn door tracker all the way up to a computer controlled EQ mount.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvoH3D_vAMg&t=13s

Have fun!

A homemade barn door tracker would indeed be ideal—even though it looks like a lot of work—but given the high cost of trackers here in Brazil, I might just venture into building one. Thanks a lot for the tip!

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Lucas Nomade avatar

andrea tasselli · Jul 17, 2026, 04:01 PM

You need a tracker.

Definitely. Since I can't get an electronic one right now, I'll try to make a homemade version.

Lucas Nomade avatar

Robin Bosshard · Jul 17, 2026, 04:51 PM

You can use Sequator or software like it to stack even untracked images to some degree. But the next step up would be a tracker for sure!

Clear skies!

I am using Siril and Sequator; so far, I haven't achieved a fully satisfactory result due to my equipment's calibration. I plan to use a mask to fine-tune the focus and conduct shorter sessions to get a good result.

andrea tasselli avatar

Lucas Nomade · Jul 17, 2026, 06:09 PM

andrea tasselli · Jul 17, 2026, 04:01 PM

You need a tracker.

Definitely. Since I can't get an electronic one right now, I'll try to make a homemade version.

If you have viable access to the underpinnings (e.g. stepper motors and gearboxes) and are mechanical and electronically inclined then check out the OnStep project. This said you can still achieve results with an untracked mount and wide-field lenses, such as this: Sagittarius-Scutum Wide-Field Panorama (RGB - OSC) - AstroBin

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TiffsAndAstro avatar

Lucas Nomade · Jul 17, 2026, 06:10 PM

Robin Bosshard · Jul 17, 2026, 04:51 PM

You can use Sequator or software like it to stack even untracked images to some degree. But the next step up would be a tracker for sure!

Clear skies!

I am using Siril and Sequator; so far, I haven't achieved a fully satisfactory result due to my equipment's calibration. I plan to use a mask to fine-tune the focus and conduct shorter sessions to get a good result.

At 50mm I found 5 sec was the limit. Even then results were not great :)

What length of subs with which focal length are you using?

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Xavier SOBRERO avatar

Hi,

The maximum exposure time is 30 seconds when using a fixed tripod. After you need to move your camera for keep a fixed reference point at the center of the objective.
My first photograph of the sky using this technique : https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/33586/wide_field/ngc-6374/by-xavs?gallery_order=is_featured&gallery_username=XavS

You'll succeed by trying different approaches. ;)

Good sky

Xavs

Tony Gondola avatar

Xavier SOBRERO · Jul 17, 2026, 07:37 PM

Hi,

The maximum exposure time is 30 seconds when using a fixed tripod. After you need to move your camera for keep a fixed reference point at the center of the objective.
My first photograph of the sky using this technique : https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/33586/wide_field/ngc-6374/by-xavs?gallery_order=is_featured&gallery_username=XavS

You'll succeed by trying different approaches. ;)

Good sky

Xavs

Actually the max. exposure time will vary depending on focal length. 18mm might be ok at 30 sec. but 105mm won’t be. It’s best just to do test exposures of increasing length until you start to see objectional trailing.

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andrea tasselli avatar

As a coarse rule of thumb use the value of 200/(focal length of lens) to get the exposure in seconds that won’t cause trailing on all modern DSLR sensors.

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andrea tasselli avatar

A more precise one is to take the value of the FWHM in arcsec of the stars in the center of the frame (with a very short exposure or pointing at the Pole) and divide this number by 15 and then divide by the cosine of the declination of the object you’re shooting (i.e., the smallest of the declination value in the frame) to get the exposure in seconds.

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Lucas Nomade avatar

andrea tasselli · Jul 17, 2026, 10:03 PM

A more precise one is to take the value of the FWHM in arcsec of the stars in the center of the frame (with a very short exposure or pointing at the Pole) and divide this number by 15 and then divide by the cosine of the declination of the object you’re shooting (i.e., the smallest of the declination value in the frame) to get the exposure in seconds.

Thanks a lot for the tip; it’s complex, but I’ll give it a shot—count on it. It’s really great to have support from the community, even without super expensive gear; it’s like getting blood from a stone, but it’s worth every minute spent.

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Lucas Nomade avatar

Xavier SOBRERO · Jul 17, 2026, 07:37 PM

Hi,

The maximum exposure time is 30 seconds when using a fixed tripod. After you need to move your camera for keep a fixed reference point at the center of the objective.
My first photograph of the sky using this technique : https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/33586/wide_field/ngc-6374/by-xavs?gallery_order=is_featured&gallery_username=XavS

You'll succeed by trying different approaches. ;)

Good sky

Xavs

Thanks for the tip, I really liked your photo!!

Lucas Nomade avatar

TiffsAndAstro · Jul 17, 2026, 07:31 PM

At 50mm I found 5 sec was the limit. Even then results were not great :)

What length of subs with which focal length are you using?

between 17mm and 105mm focal length, and a maximum time of 13s.

Lucas Nomade avatar

Tony Gondola · Jul 17, 2026, 08:59 PM

Actually the max. exposure time will vary depending on focal length. 18mm might be ok at 30 sec. but 105mm won’t be. It’s best just to do test exposures of increasing length until you start to see objectional trailing.

Yes, I’m struggling a bit with the stacking due to the trails, but I’m learning more and more and getting closer to the ideal with each passing day.

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Lucas Nomade avatar

andrea tasselli · Jul 17, 2026, 09:50 PM

As a coarse rule of thumb use the value of 200/(focal length of lens) to get the exposure in seconds that won’t cause trailing on all modern DSLR sensors.

This is an excellent tip; I'm going to put it into practice and post my results here!

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Gürkan Erkula avatar
Gürkan Erkula avatar

https://www.photopills.com/calculators/spotstars I used this app to calculate exposure time to prevent star trails, when I first started; if you don't want to buy a tracker

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NeilM avatar

Earlier this year in South Africa, I used Siril to stack 400 X 30s images of the Carina Nebula, taken with my Nikon DSLR. Focal length was about 150mm and I used a tripod with no tracker. I had to reposition the camera several timed during the evening to keep the Nebula more or less centered in the field of view.

The stars were elongated but I used the RC-Astro BlurExterminator tool to “Correct” the stars and it did a fantastic job. You have to pay for BlurX but it now works with Siril.📷 carina_dslr2.jpgcarina_dslr2.jpg

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TiffsAndAstro avatar

NeilM · Jul 18, 2026, 03:21 PM

Earlier this year in South Africa, I used Siril to stack 400 X 30s images of the Carina Nebula, taken with my Nikon DSLR. Focal length was about 150mm and I used a tripod with no tracker. I had to reposition the camera several timed during the evening to keep the Nebula more or less centered in the field of view.

The stars were elongated but I used the RC-Astro BlurExterminator tool to “Correct” the stars and it did a fantastic job. You have to pay for BlurX but it now works with Siril.📷 carina_dslr2.jpgcarina_dslr2.jpg

This might be the nicest image I've seen from a tripod and no mount.

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NeilM avatar

Thanks TiffsAndAstro

I need to make a correction here…

Unfortunately I didn't write down the settings and I no longer have the original Nikon NEF files and I am relying on my poor memory.

I was using a Zoom lens so it may actually have been closer to 100mm focal length. Also I am now thinking that these might have been 15 second exposures…

The point that I was a trying to make is that some modern software tools like BlurExterminator can correct elongated stars to a certain extent.

Also, two more things were working in my favor:

  • The Carina Nebula is close to the South Celestial pole, so star trailing was much lower than it would have been in a different part of the sky

  • I was in a place with very dark skies and no moon, so short exposures gave me a lot of detail compared to a more light polluted location.

Neil

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Tony Gondola avatar

Ahhh the power of modern software, that’s a great result! I am certain that the OP will get a LOT of inspiration from that image.

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NeilM avatar

Here is an example of how well BlurExterminator works…

I found an example of an image with bad star trails from user “rathijt” on another forum. His original image is here: 📷 post-156090-0-86261700-1529961380.jpgpost-156090-0-86261700-1529961380.jpgI used BlurExterminator “Correct Only” followed by BlurExterminator “Sharpen Stars” to achieve this. Not perfect, but it can go a long way towards correcting elongations.

📷 corrected stars.jpgcorrected stars.jpgNeil

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