How do you like your Orion Nebula? - Forums

Topic starter

Jan 28, 2022

Hi folks,

After getting new equipment, I started imaging as soon as I could. I currently am 5h (600sx30) into the Orion Nebula in RGB (ASI 183MC-pro) and intend to add at least another 5h, maybe 1 or 2 hours worth of short exposures for the core, and then get to processing.
My problem is that I'm editing the 5h data that I have, and I'm totally perplexed by the complexity of this target, and I have no idea where I'm going with this. My main goal was to compromise between noise and having visible dust, but I can't get a result that satisfies me in terms of coloring.

So, what colors do you go to for Orion? Ha data for the dust, then assigned to red? A more natural brown, or lighter dust with a pinkish/blue core? Crazy with high contrast and a dramatic look?

This is what I have so far, and I'm just not sure.

Engaging

wsg

Jan 28, 2022 · Edited: Jan 28, 2022

After a few years of reading posts like this in this forum especially posts that ask for critique and advise on processing, I am convinced that most of these are simply seeking "likes" and approval of the posted image. Why are you perplexed by the complexity of the target? How is this a surprise to you? Have you not bothered to look at even a few of the hundreds of images of this target that can be found in a search on this great site and in doing so, found a few you would like to emulate?
There are no shortcuts in astrophotography, asking what colors everyone likes for the Orion nebula is like asking everyone what time it is. You will get 20 thousand different answers and everyone will wonder why you don't have a clock. Use Salvatores fantastic search engine and take the time to look at other people's images and find a color you like. You should be much more concerned about why your core is blown out than what color the camera itself has given you to work with.

scott

Lynn K

Jan 28, 2022

Orion being one of the brighter object is easy to aquire data on, but one of the most difficult to post process.

If you photograph a bright red object in a dark room, then lighten the image is a processing program like PhotoShop, the result will no be the true bright red of the object, but more likely brown as in the outer Ha areas of Orion. That is the nature of digital pixel color. If you darken a bright red object in a processing software and save it, then lighten it. It will not return to it's original red color, but will be brown. It is as if you added black paint to red paint and then lightened it with white paint.

The most saturated pixel color is in the mid range, such as 125 in PhotoShop.

A lot of imagers leave the the outer faint Ha areas as brown. One can select/mask that area and alter the color to more red. It's a personal choice.

Lynn K.

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Eric Maurício

Topic starter

Jan 28, 2022 · Edited: Jan 28, 2022

@wsg, I'm fairly new here, and didn't know that you could "like" forum posts. I understand where you're going with that argument, I am not fishing for likes, or seeking approval. I didn't ask advice on processing, nor did I ask for a critique, I just gave 2 examples for reference. I'm sorry if it seemed that way. I've spent a few hours browsing the site for inspiration, but almost no one mentions the choices that lead to a final image, hence the question to get a few opinions.

You should be much more concerned about why your core is blown out than what color the camera itself has given you to work with.

I specified that I still hadn't exposed for the core.

Eric Maurício

Topic starter

Jan 28, 2022

Lynn K:
Orion being one of the brighter object is easy to aquire data on, but one of the most difficult to post process.

If you photograph a bright red object in a dark room, then lighten the image is a processing program like PhotoShop, the result will no be the true bright red of the object, but more likely brown as in the outer Ha areas of Orion. That is the nature of digital pixel color. If you darken a bright red object in a processing software and save it, then lighten it. It will not return to it's original red color, but will be brown. It is as if you added black paint to red paint and then lightened it with white paint.

The most saturated pixel color is in the mid range, such as 125 in PhotoShop.

A lot of imagers leave the the outer faint Ha areas as brown. One can select/mask that area and alter the color to more red. It's a personal choice.

Lynn K.

I've always thought that a pixel would have a base color value, plus a luminosity value that would translate to a color, and while we could darken it, and save it, brightening it, would bring that color back to its original value.

Arun H

Frequent contributor

Jan 28, 2022 · Edited: Jan 28, 2022

Many of us that use PixInsight follow a logical process for color calibration that assures that stars and nebulae are at least somewhat true to their natural color.

In the days I was using a DSLR and shooting RAW files without using PixInsight, I'd apply a daylight white balance to my subs what would give a similar result to above.

In that sense, we don't go for certain colors but rather allow the natural colors of the object to show through (with adjustments for contrast and saturation as you would for any image).

This is, I think, what you'd see if you do what Scott recommended and search for good images (Top Picks or Top Pick Nominations, for example) of this object.

If you don't like what you see there, it is still your image, and you are free to adjust it as you choose to your liking.

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Ola Skarpen SkyEyE

Jan 28, 2022

You have to find a picture you like, so try to edit as close to this as you can. There is no quick fix. I have several 1000 hours of editing in pixinsight, but I still feel like an amateur.
When I look at the picture you have taken, it looks more like a painting than a photo. One tip is to be more careful with noise removal. And just practice and practice editing, that's where the secret of good photos is

ola

Tom Marsala

Jan 28, 2022

Hey Eric!
I honestly think the shot you ended up with is beautiful-well- balanced and the dust is fantastic.

Lynn K

Jan 28, 2022

Eric, I just ran some test in PhotoShop V5, and it seems you are correct. I could always return the darkened red pixels to their original color. It seems Photoshop remembers that in the file. My comments were base on Adam Blocks PS tutorials. But could not duplicate his demo.

However, Adam Block explained in his demos when a red pixel is darken to the extreme, it looses it's saturation/color and reads as brown.

Lynn K.

Eric Maurício

Topic starter

Jan 29, 2022

Ola Skarpen SkyEyE:
You have to find a picture you like, so try to edit as close to this as you can. There is no quick fix. I have several 1000 hours of editing in pixinsight, but I still feel like an amateur.
When I look at the picture you have taken, it looks more like a painting than a photo. One tip is to be more careful with noise removal. And just practice and practice editing, that's where the secret of good photos is

ola

Thank you, I agree, this is by no means a final edit, I wanted to push the dust, but of course, noise comes with it. I will not push the dark areas so much, so I don't end up with the dilemma of noise vs "melted signal" from noise reduction.

dreamsandmonsters

Feb 13, 2022

Eric Maurício:
I'm totally perplexed by the complexity of this target, and I have no idea where I'm going with this. My main goal was to compromise between noise and having visible dust, but I can't get a result that satisfies me in terms of coloring.

So, what colors do you go to for Orion? Ha data for the dust, then assigned to red? A more natural brown, or lighter dust with a pinkish/blue core? Crazy with high contrast and a dramatic look?

To me, it looks like you need to need to separate both issues in your mind: technical acquisition and personal taste.

Since you're not really sure what you like the most, I'd suggest to do what Ola said: finding a picture you like, whether it's a super dramatic version or a natural look. No one can really tell you that THIS picture is amazing and not this one. I mean... sure they can, but are they right or wrong? It's a purely personal perspective

For the technical / acquisition issue, since you'll be getting the core data later, I guess you'll have a better idea of what you have an issue with. If you like the overall look of your image, it will be easier to pin-point what you don't like in the acquisition/data itself. If you still have an issue with the clouds of dust, maybe do a completely different editing set / expose for way longer to get the clouds out and then finally combine it with the rest of the nebula?

It makes more sense to figure out what you like the most first, THEN you do the necessary to get there.

Hope it helps!

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KevinSeals

Apr 12, 2022

Thanks for the suggestions.

KevinSeals

Apr 22, 2022 · Edited: Apr 23, 2022

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