Finally figuring out my F2.8 PowerNewt 5 years after buying it.

Fast Newtonians 13 replies244 views
John Tucker avatar

I don’t know why, but I sure struggled with getting acceptable collimation and with adjusting my tilt corrector when I bought my “PowerNewt” (a TS Optics carbon fiber Newt with a bundled 0.75x reducer/corrector) five years ago. But I’ve been shooting with a 1x corrector for quite a while now, and decided to try my hand at F2.8 again.

Just a hair under an hour on the Orion Nebula using 6, 10 and 20 second exposures in combination with an Optolong L-Extreme filter. Leaving aside the other shortcomings in my processing, one thing I found particularly difficult was getting a nice background when there is a lot of nebulosity close to the corners of the picture. The FOV is so wide at 400mm that you get vignetting from the dew shield, and its hard to put your flats panel on the shield without it moving.

Anyway, there’s a “Weeeeeeeeee” factor to seeing your S/N ratio drop so fast, even if you are shooting the brightest extended object in the nighttime sky. For comparison, I got a somewhat nicer picture at 360mm using my Sharpstar EDPH III refractor, but it took 4.5 hours.

Newt top, refractor bottom.

📷 Orion Nebula at 400mmOrion Nebula at 400mm

📷 Yet another run at the Orion Nebula...Yet another run at the Orion Nebula...

https://app.astrobin.com/i/ynyn1w/

https://app.astrobin.com/i/8ux3tc/

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Tony Gondola avatar

Have you tried shooting sky flats to prevent disturbing the dew shield?

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John Tucker avatar

Tony Gondola · Feb 28, 2026, 02:40 AM

Have you tried shooting sky flats to prevent disturbing the dew shield?

Good idea. Thanks. I’ve never actually done that. Any suggestions?

AnaTa avatar

Maybe 0.75x reducer-corrector is not good. What is price of this reducer?

Clear Skies!

Armen

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John Tucker avatar
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nwsorin avatar

Welcome to the fast side, I have F3 Newt fever. I love imaging with a fast newtonian. It can be difficult to get collamation just right. After 7 years, I still don't have it right, but I'm okay with the results. To do sky flats, do it on a cloudy day or early dawn or late evening. For sky flats on a clear day, aim away from the Sun set or rise, about an 30mins to an hour from sunrise or after sunset. Here is my 1hr M42 https://www.astrobin.com/ohqij6/ Check out my images with 12 inch newtonian @f2.8 at 885mm focal length.

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Tony Gondola avatar

John Tucker · Feb 28, 2026, 02:54 AM

Tony Gondola · Feb 28, 2026, 02:40 AM

Have you tried shooting sky flats to prevent disturbing the dew shield?

Good idea. Thanks. I’ve never actually done that. Any suggestions?

If you use NINA the Flats Wizard does a great job and it can be commanded in the sequence. If not, it’s easy to do them manually. The only thing that’s really different is when you shoot them. I usually do it about 10 min after sunset or 10 before sunrise. If you do it when it’s darker you run the risk of recording stars in your flats. You can even do narrowband filters after sunrise as long as your OTA is light tight.

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John Tucker avatar

nwsorin · Feb 28, 2026, 03:38 AM

Welcome to the fast side, I have F3 Newt fever. I love imaging with a fast newtonian. It can be difficult to get collamation just right. After 7 years, I still don't have it right, but I'm okay with the results. To do sky flats, do it on a cloudy day or early dawn or late evening. For sky flats on a clear day, aim away from the Sun set or rise, about an 30mins to an hour from sunrise or after sunset. Here is my 1hr M42 https://www.astrobin.com/ohqij6/ Check out my images with 12 inch newtonian @f2.8 at 885mm focal length.

That’s really beautiful.

Yes, I’ve struggled with collimation too. Even at F/4 it often seems like the image is a more sensitive measure of how well I’ve collimated than my Catseye autocollimator.

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Alex Nicholas avatar

I bought my Sharpstar 150mm f/2.8 hyperbolic newtonian in August last year… This week, I took the first image with this scope that I thought was even close to being accurately collimated. I’ve probably adjusted it 10~15 times, every time, the image is frought with weird flares, off-center light cone, horrid tilt etc…

An f/2.8 newtonian is a WHOLE NEW LEVEL of astro difficulty that I was certainly not prepared for… but this week I did a test shot (I only had 15 mins of clear sky) so after set-up, getting it focused and verifying that this time.. This time! I finally had a collimation result that looked good, I too 3×30s subs on Eta Carina… and I tell you what, that 90s image looks as good as a 80×180s images from a f/6.4 refractor I shot a couple of years back…

Keep working with that newt… once you get it right, it will be the most power weapon in your arsenal!

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John Tucker avatar

Alex Nicholas · Feb 28, 2026, 10:25 AM

I bought my Sharpstar 150mm f/2.8 hyperbolic newtonian in August last year… This week, I took the first image with this scope that I thought was even close to being accurately collimated. I’ve probably adjusted it 10~15 times, every time, the image is frought with weird flares, off-center light cone, horrid tilt etc…

An f/2.8 newtonian is a WHOLE NEW LEVEL of astro difficulty that I was certainly not prepared for… but this week I did a test shot (I only had 15 mins of clear sky) so after set-up, getting it focused and verifying that this time.. This time! I finally had a collimation result that looked good, I too 3×30s subs on Eta Carina… and I tell you what, that 90s image looks as good as a 80×180s images from a f/6.4 refractor I shot a couple of years back…

Keep working with that newt… once you get it right, it will be the most power weapon in your arsenal!

Show us the image!

Yes, they are tough to figure out! I’ve used both a Farpoint autocollimator and one from Catseye, and with both I feel like I’m still measuring the width of a penny with a yardstick! But if I’m super obsessive-compulsive about it, and use a super bright flashlight to get two of my center triangles perfectly overlapping and the other two fairly close, I can now usually get the collimation pretty close.

After getting the backspacing as close as I could (using spacing rings as small as 0.15mm), I fixed the tilt using the Gerd Newman tilt corrector. Unlike most tilt correctors, it allows me to adjust the tilt without taking the whole camera assembly off the focuser and partially disassembling it to get at the screws. I don’t know how anyone gets anywhere with the regular ones.

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John Favalessa avatar

I use the Astro Systems laser collimator with barlow and having great success with my 8” f4 newt…and easy to use. https://www.astrosystems.biz/coltlsm1.htm

Tom Marsala avatar

And I thought getting my f4.5 properly aligned and collimated was tough!

Alex Nicholas avatar

John Tucker · Feb 28, 2026, 12:11 PM

Show us the image!

📷 EtaCar_Ha_90s_Half-Size.jpgEtaCar_Ha_90s_Half-Size.jpgAs mentioned - don’t judge this too closely.. This is 3 * 30s subs.

Sharpstar 15028HNT-AL.
ToupTek ATR2600M (Cooler off.. I was just testing) + ToupTek 3.5nm Ha filter.
Emcan Astro EM31 Pro mount.

Collimation:
Previously, I would get focus with an average HFR of 1.8px with the Ha filter, which indicates its pretty sharp, however the HFR SD would be wild… With this collimation, the HFR came out at 1.59px.

Also, the center of the brightness was usually about 30% in from the eastern side of the sensor, as if the light cone was centralised NOT in the center of the focuser.

As it turns out, the Sharpstar documentation says the secondary mirror holder should be 5mm back from the rear edge of the spider. My secondary is now 8.5mm back from the back of the spider, and my light cone is almost 100% dead center…

Prior to adjusting this, I had to tilt the secondary considerably in order to get the whole primary mirror in the reflection, and thus, ASTAP was reporting a 38% tilt across the sensor, resulting in muddy stars in top left and bottom right corner. The subs in this image measure at 6% tilt and ASTAP says ‘don’t touch a thing’!

The tools?
I first tried the collimation cap that came with the scope.. Lovely machined little tool, absolutely useless when collimating a super fast newt… I haven’t used it in AGES!

Next, I attempted the Baader Laser Colli Mk III, I could get that thing to say EVERYTHING IS PERFECT and still be WILDLY mis-collimated… Largely because the secondary can be WAY out of wack, but as long as you tilt it such that the beam hits the center of the primary, then adjust the primary to return the beam, it says your collimated when you may well be aligned in the light path, but the tilts on each of the mirrors is WILDLY inaccurate!

Finally - I took the plunge and bought the OCAL 4 Pro.
Initially, I was a little confused with it, and found that with the specified mirror spacing, I could never get the secondary to be concentric with the focuser, nor could I make it appear round… I attempted it a few times and got results that OTHERWISE looked ok, but again, massive tilt in the images… It took 4 weeks of attempting and re-attempting before I said ‘You know what.. The manual is WRONG… I put the secondary where it needed to be to be central in the focuser, then adjusted it until it was perfectly round. After this, I tweaked it to make sure the OCAL said it was pointing directly at the primary center spot, then moved to the primary and tilted it such that the reflection of the OCAL was placed exactly in the center of the ocal image. I had to do two iterations to fine tune it until the final adjustment on the primary did not affect the alignment of the secondary… Finally - it looked how it should!

Polar Alignment: None.
I put the mount down ROUGHLY where it usually is.. probably out by 1° give or take…

Guiding: None.
I just swapped out my OAG for an external guide scope on this scope as the light cone is so steep that I couldnt get the prism at a point where it didn’t cast a shadow on the sensor and could still see stars.

I only put the scope outside as I had a 45 minute window before it was forecast to rain, but I wanted to see what this attempt at collimation had produced… After the first test shot, the result looked VERY promising… I thought, why not?, slew to a nearby target and fire off a few test subs.. I pointed at Eta Carina as its very large and bright, and I didn’t need to use go-to (remember… no polar alignment at all) as I know exactly where it is…

This was the result…

A grand total of 90s in 3.5nm Ha light..

If this can be achieved in 1.5min, imagine 15h…

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John Tucker avatar

Nice Pic!

Yeah, its a learning curve to be sure. And there is a lot of bad advice out there.

I collimate the secondary mirror with a laser inserted in the focuser tube. The beam bounces off the secondary and hits the primary. I adjust the screws on the primary until the beam hits the center spot on the primary.

With the laser still in, I roughly collimate the primary by adjusting its knobs until the laser beam goes right back to the source of the beam. (You can see the reflection in the primary).

At that point I put the autofocuser in and try to get the center spot and its reflections to lie on top of each other.

Funny thing is, having finally learned how to do it, I’m probably going to put the Newt on the shelf as the dew situation is so bad here.

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