Struggling to improve my telescope guiding performance

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Jeff Dyben avatar

I’ve been struggling to improve my guiding for a couple of months now, despite any changes I make it doesn’t seem to have a major effect for improving my total rms.

Gear Used:

  • Sky Watcher 150i

  • Explore Scientific ED102

  • ZWO OAG

  • ZWO ASI 120MM

Relevant Settings and Details:

  • 0.7x sidereal guiding rate in RA/DEC

  • Telescope setup weights ~15 lbs

  • Using counterweight bar, performs better than when no CW is attached

  • TPPA to < 10”

PHD2 Settings

  • RA Predictive Pec: Pred Weight 70, React Weight 70, Period Length 286.44, Max Duration 2500

  • DEC Resist Switch: Aggressiveness 100, Max Duration 2600

  • Min Move (pixels): 0.2

image.png

This guide graph is from when I was imaging NGC 2359. I got slightly oval shaped stars as a result of the peaks above 2” in RA, along with the RMS of 0.75” in RA not being ideal. I know this mount is capable of doing better, many people online consistently have it guiding under a total RMS of less than 0.5”. I just cannot figure out what I’m doing wrong. Any advice would be appreciated!

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andrea tasselli avatar
The stuff you posted doesn't tell anything about the actual tracking performance of the mount at load, without which you are basically blind to what the issue is.
Wim van Berlo avatar

Shouldn’t the exposure time for a strain wave mount be smaller, 1s?

Cheers,

Wim

Quinn Groessl avatar

I agree to shorten the exposure time. Then another thing is to balance both RA and dec as best you can with the methods described in the 150i’s manual.

Tobiasz avatar

Reduce the exposure time to 0.5s-1s, turn up the camera gain if needed and reduce the MinMo in your RA axis to 0. Those should be the biggest changes for now.

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Craig Towell avatar

Have you run the guiding assistant?

Brian Puhl avatar

Like Tobaisz said, you need 1 second guide exposures. Harmonics have larger periodic error swings, you need to be able to keep up with that. 3 second updates never works on harmonics effectively.

Also, you are 100% at the mercy of seeing with a harmonic due to the aforemention reasons. Just because someone else can get great guiding, doesn’t mean you will. So many people overlook this. Some places just have poor seeing. Judging by the large jumps on your dec axis, I think you also have poor seeing.

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Jeff Dyben avatar

Thank you for everyone’s feedback! On the next clear night, I’ll try 0.5s - 1s exposures again on PHD2 and see what I’m able to get.

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TiffsAndAstro avatar
I find 0.5 sec works best for my hem15. 

3 sec seems excessive
SonnyE avatar

I don’t have a Harmonic mount. But I do have a long history of guiding and running PHD since PHD1.

Set up is important, just plopping down and a quick setup, Polar Alignment that is not thoroughly addressed, and other haphazard setting up will give frustrating results. Been there, done that! And it is why I’ve chosen to keep my equipment setup and covered when not in use. I eventually found “My Spot” and have used it for over a decade.

Too often I see people frustrated (I was, too.) until I started going long on my setting up. Anytime a mount is moved or even bumped it can throw things off. Then everything must be checked and readjusted for where the mount is now. And why pier mounted equipment excels over tripod in many cases. The pier mounted does not get moved or bumped out of its setup easily.

When you do your Alignment or Modeling, you are teaching the mount where it is in relation to the sky. One star? 3 stars? How about 10 or more West, and 10 or more East? What I’ve found by going long on my basics is better performance and accuracy in actual use. Better basics and better care will yield better results. It’s not all in the readings. Consistency comes from being methodical in your setup. Your setting up is all the mechanical bearings on the end result.

Try going long on your setup and see if you don’t find more satisfaction in your guiding results. PHD2 is a great yardstick for the end results. But it can’t give you better without your basics being as good as you can give your equipment. Impatience often gives frustration.

Plate solving is good but will struggle if other factors are sloppy. Including poor seeing. Take the time to Go Long on your basics and see if things don’t improve. Seeing variations will also cause your graph to get all wowie, as well as your mounts mechanicals.

Try setting up where you can keep your mount set up and then just uncover each night and run through setting up. You will see everything improve night after night because your mechanicals will get closer and closer. Each night you will see your PHD2 readings get better and better.

I run 1 second exposures so corrections are not great, just little bumps. As you see your graph grow tighter you can reduce your spread on it. Eventually you’ll find the minimum wiggles your mount will do.

But the end result is, “Are you happy with your images?” Are you getting tiny stars in the background? If you are, then there is little to worry about. Don’t worry about others, this isn’t a race. Just do your best. 😉

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nadz11.ns avatar
There are very good guiding recommendations by Pegasus astro and I used those for my Wave 150i. The guiding performance really improved following those settings. 
NYX-101-Guiding-Recommendations.pdf 
These may be for their own mount, but most harmonic mounts behave similarly at a base level.

Of course things could be improved upon and also depends a lot on seeing conditions. 

The wave150i thread on cloudynights has some long discussions on guiding, maybe read through the thread and you could get some useful info.
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Aquawind avatar

I upgraded to the 150i from a HEQ5 and it has some settings/issues that are so different for guiding. Save the profile and as mentioned seeing is a big deal so don’t play with it every night and certainly not multiple settings. I run best at 1 second or I should say if seeing allows it. Mediocre nights I have run at 1.5 seconds and it helped. An OAG definitely improved my guiding. I got numbers under 1 with a guide scope but, that sucks now. I start to get annoyed when my number gets over .6 and often run well below. Use the counterweight. I leave my scope connected and carry the whole rig out each session(without the counterweight). Good PA, Focus on both cameras, and make sure your knobs are tight. It really takes some patience with all of the variables other than the mount. I have not setup offsets for my filters yet and just use autofocus on the filters with and OAG. I have found adjusting your guide camera focus to get the lowest HFR is helpful of course immediately after get your main scope in focus. I did this the other night when my guiding HFR was over 4 and got it around 3 then saw my guiding numbers go under .2 with 5 minutes subs under .3. They say don’t fool with OAG focus and guiding focus isn’t that important but, it helps!

CS, Paul

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ZigZagZebraz avatar

I have a Wave 100i and use an OAG with SV905 guide camera. Use the native driver for SV905 as per Nyx Guiding 101 pdf (or webpage). Even though my rig weighs only 14lbs, I use a counter weight. The rig is balanced in both axes.

The dovetail plate I use has cm and mm marks. I used a counterweight rod on a flat surface to balance the OTA front to back (Dec axis). Just rolling it front to back with care, note the scale marking when the OTA starts to tilt in the other direction. One can always use a micro tip sharpie for making a mark. I also put a glow in the dark tape (cut to about 2mm width) on the lips of the saddle at the center (front to back). Helps align the dovetail mark to the center of the saddle plate.

The period for my mount is about twice of yours (close to 540 seconds). I also have the adjust period tick box clicked ON. In PHD2 logviewer, there is a smaller peak at 279 seconds, but a much higher (more of a hump) at twice that period. PHD2 PPEC identifies it as the period automatically.

I use 1 second guide exposures with PPEC for RA (similar settings as yours) and for the last session changed to Z-factor for Dec with an exposure factor of 2. Previously, used Resist Switch for Dec about same max duration and aggression as yours.

With below average seeing (wispy clouds intermittently), get anywhere between 0.6 to 0.85, with occasional over 1 arc-min RMS, when I can clearly see in the star profile window and PHD2 that there are clouds.

As per Nyx guiding 101, run the guiding assistant for about 20 minutes (unclick estimate backlash) and get the recommendation for minmo for both axes. Set the minmo to about 1/3 of the recommendation. It works for me.

Before OAG, my star roundness was about 0.88. With OAG, it is between 0.93 to 0.96. I was at 384mm focal length. It might vary at 500mm on my Askar V.

All the best

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