Esprit 120 Slippage / Sesto Senso 2

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Anderl avatar

Hey Guys,

some time ago I was quite astonished to hear that there are tak toa users that support their focusers with rubber bands to get rid of slippage.
First time hearing that people support their premium scopes with rubber bands I thought, that can’t be real.

my esprit 120 always had very slight slippage I guess. i recalibrated my focuser maybe once a year, because it lost a few thousand focus positions points within that time. the slippage or whatever it was, was really slow, and my data and focus consistency was great.

that changed yesterday night.
imaging sh-240 with the scope in Zenit my Sesto senso 2 just could not hold the weight of the imaging train anymore.
i lost around 500 focus points with every autofocus run (head to head runs), which led Nina to give me the “hfr is worse after autofocus blabla error message” every time.
imaging was impossible at this point and after spending a whole night and some more hours today I still couldn't resolve the problem.

what I have done and observed until now is the following:
- I upgraded nina
- I upgraded the sesto senso
- I activated the “hold” function of the Sesto senso within the play software
- I did multiple calibration rounds
- checked my Nina settings
- I tightened the esprit 120 fine focus grub screw (it already was very tight, and i am not sure if I have actually turned it because of that)
- I tightened the Sesto senso 2 grub screws that hold on to the fine focussing knob
- I partly engaged the locking screw of the esprit. guess that made a difference. with the locking screw partly engaged the area around my focus point seems to don’t or only very slowly slip. Imaging at around 60 degrees, I only went from an hfr of 2.33 to 2.45 within a hour of imaging
- and yes, it is cold right now, but I have used the exact same setup on nights like this, like a thousand times already

and still… once I point the scope into Zenit, manually moving the focuser to specific positions, there are huge amounts of slippage.
for example, if I manually focus around the 8 mark of the focuser draw tube, the draw tube instantly slips around half a point.
there are a few of this points all over the draw tube.
looking at those specific points where the focuser slips, it is clearly visible that the Sesto senso 2 itself is moving as well. guess that means it isn’t a problem with the Sesto senso not holding tight enough on the focuser knob but more a problem of the Sesto senso 2 being too weak to support the weight of my imaging gear.

well, whats now?
- buying a new electronic focuser?
- changing the draw tube of my esprit to something better like a feather touch?
- using cheap rubber bands on an expensive scope/imaging setup to make it work?

Bildschirmfoto 2026-01-19 um 20.31.06.pngBildschirmfoto 2026-01-19 um 20.30.57.pngthese are my latest autofocus runs in Nina. right now it seems to work but maybe someone more knowledgeable can give me feedback on them.
focus still seems to move inwards a bit but the runs are 45 minutes apart, the scope is well temperated and was outside all day but still, maybe it is just the temperature falling.

i am thankful for any inputs you guys can give me.

thx and clear skies
Anderl

Rainer Ehlert avatar

I just read that the Esprit 120 has a R&P focuser. That should not have a slippage.

Check the union between focuser and motor axle.

Grind of the axle of both so the set screws have a flat surface.

📷 image.pngimage.png

Helpful Concise
andrea tasselli avatar
Ageing does that to focusers, they just slips. Different telescope and different focuser for sure but I had to change the original focuser to a R&P one as it was impossible at times to get the Sesto Senso to work. I thought it was the latter but further indoor testing showed that the poor thing operates as it should.  I'm convinced that the long permanence in the outside develops a thin film of residues together with oxides on the side of the ball bearings. Luckily for me I don't use refractors so refocusing during a run  is basically pointless in most circumstances.
andrea tasselli avatar
Rainer Ehlert:
I just read that the Esprit 120 has a R&P focuser. That should not have a slippage.

Check the union between focuser and motor axle.

Grind of the axle of both so the set screws have a flat surface.


That is not possible, besides being pointless.
Rainer Ehlert avatar

andrea tasselli · Jan 19, 2026, 08:20 PM

Rainer Ehlert:
I just read that the Esprit 120 has a R&P focuser. That should not have a slippage.

Check the union between focuser and motor axle.

Grind of the axle of both so the set screws have a flat surface.



That is not possible, besides being pointless.

Interesting.

I have a Takahashi TOA 130, 1st generation with their R&P focuser since 2008 sitting in my observatory and no problem. OK, the TOA 130 focuser has no ball bearings.

Why is it pointless to grind off the axles in order to not have slippage?

I have done it with some of my telescopes focusers especially the fine focusing axle.

Which brings to the other possibility that the balls of this fine 10:1 are slipping. The Takahashi fine focuser 10:1 do have a possibility of adjusting the friction.

But that needs a lot of weight to bring the balls of the 10:1 fine focuser to slip.

From the high amount of steps I assume you are using the 10:1 focuser. ¿?

Anderl avatar

Rainer Ehlert · Jan 19, 2026 at 08:27 PM

andrea tasselli · Jan 19, 2026, 08:20 PM

Rainer Ehlert:
I just read that the Esprit 120 has a R&P focuser. That should not have a slippage.

Check the union between focuser and motor axle.

Grind of the axle of both so the set screws have a flat surface.



That is not possible, besides being pointless.

Interesting.

I have a Takahashi TOA 130, 1st generation with their R&P focuser since 2008 sitting in my observatory and no problem. OK, the TOA 130 focuser has no ball bearings.

Why is it pointless to grind off the axles in order to not have slippage?

I have done it with some of my telescopes focusers especially the fine focusing axle.

Which brings to the other possibility that the balls of this fine 10:1 are slipping. The Takahashi fine focuser 10:1 do have a possibility of adjusting the friction.

But that needs a lot of weight to bring the balls of the 10:1 fine focuser to slip.

From the high amount of steps I assume you are using the 10:1 focuser. ¿?

I already thought about grinding the contact surfaces flat but i doubt that thats the problem, the sesto senso seems to have a tight grip and its motor is turning together with the draw tube slipping.

The fine focuser is a 1:11model and thats where i have the sesto senso attached to.

Rainer Ehlert avatar

Anderl · Jan 19, 2026, 08:48 PM

Rainer Ehlert · Jan 19, 2026 at 08:27 PM

andrea tasselli · Jan 19, 2026, 08:20 PM

Rainer Ehlert:
I just read that the Esprit 120 has a R&P focuser. That should not have a slippage.

Check the union between focuser and motor axle.

Grind of the axle of both so the set screws have a flat surface.



That is not possible, besides being pointless.

Interesting.

I have a Takahashi TOA 130, 1st generation with their R&P focuser since 2008 sitting in my observatory and no problem. OK, the TOA 130 focuser has no ball bearings.

Why is it pointless to grind off the axles in order to not have slippage?

I have done it with some of my telescopes focusers especially the fine focusing axle.

Which brings to the other possibility that the balls of this fine 10:1 are slipping. The Takahashi fine focuser 10:1 do have a possibility of adjusting the friction.

But that needs a lot of weight to bring the balls of the 10:1 fine focuser to slip.

From the high amount of steps I assume you are using the 10:1 focuser. ¿?

I already thought about grinding the contact surfaces flat but i doubt that thats the problem, the sesto senso seems to have a tight grip and its motor is turning together with the draw tube slipping.

The fine focuser is a 1:11model and thats where i have the sesto senso attached to.

OK, have you tested if the 11:1 focuser part is slipping? Of course I do not know if they have an adjusting possibility. I only know my Takahashi 10:1 focusers.

There is a little set screw on the shiny ring (not the brass ring) which one opens and then I can turn that ring CW or CCW for tightening or loosening the friction of the balls.

Grüße Rainer

📷 image.pngimage.png

Helpful
Anderl avatar

Rainer Ehlert · Jan 19, 2026 at 08:57 PM

Anderl · Jan 19, 2026, 08:48 PM

Rainer Ehlert · Jan 19, 2026 at 08:27 PM

andrea tasselli · Jan 19, 2026, 08:20 PM

Rainer Ehlert:
I just read that the Esprit 120 has a R&P focuser. That should not have a slippage.

Check the union between focuser and motor axle.

Grind of the axle of both so the set screws have a flat surface.



That is not possible, besides being pointless.

Interesting.

I have a Takahashi TOA 130, 1st generation with their R&P focuser since 2008 sitting in my observatory and no problem. OK, the TOA 130 focuser has no ball bearings.

Why is it pointless to grind off the axles in order to not have slippage?

I have done it with some of my telescopes focusers especially the fine focusing axle.

Which brings to the other possibility that the balls of this fine 10:1 are slipping. The Takahashi fine focuser 10:1 do have a possibility of adjusting the friction.

But that needs a lot of weight to bring the balls of the 10:1 fine focuser to slip.

From the high amount of steps I assume you are using the 10:1 focuser. ¿?

I already thought about grinding the contact surfaces flat but i doubt that thats the problem, the sesto senso seems to have a tight grip and its motor is turning together with the draw tube slipping.

The fine focuser is a 1:11model and thats where i have the sesto senso attached to.

OK, have you tested if the 11:1 focuser part is slipping? Of course I do not know if they have an adjusting possibility. I only know my Takahashi 10:1 focusers.

There is a little set screw on the shiny ring (not the brass ring) which one opens and then I can turn that ring CW or CCW for tightening or loosening the friction of the balls.

Grüße Rainer

📷 image.pngimage.png

There is a similar screw on the esprit but it was already hand tight, so I didn’t further mess with it.

andrea tasselli avatar
Rainer Ehlert:
Why is it pointless to grind off the axles in order to not have slippage?


Because the Sesto Senso shaft cannot be ground flat and if you had one you would know why. Besides, with enough torque applied to the set screws there is no slippage. Otherwise they would have done it themselves, wouldn't they?
Rainer Ehlert avatar

andrea tasselli · Jan 19, 2026, 09:45 PM

Rainer Ehlert:
Why is it pointless to grind off the axles in order to not have slippage?



Because the Sesto Senso shaft cannot be ground flat and if you had one you would know why. Besides, with enough torque applied to the set screws there is no slippage. Otherwise they would have done it themselves, wouldn't they?

Sorry and OK, thanks for the explanation which you could have given me before. Do you not think so?

There is so much hardware out there and I only know what I have and so I am transmitting my experience with what I know or have had in my hands…

So giving a bit more information beforehand would have been nice… Thank you

I am a poor astronomer and only know ZWO EAF focusers.

Monty Chandler avatar

Anderl · Jan 19, 2026, 07:53 PM

Hey Guys,

some time ago I was quite astonished to hear that there are tak toa users that support their focusers with rubber bands to get rid of slippage.
First time hearing that people support their premium scopes with rubber bands I thought, that can’t be real.

my esprit 120 always had very slight slippage I guess. i recalibrated my focuser maybe once a year, because it lost a few thousand focus positions points within that time. the slippage or whatever it was, was really slow, and my data and focus consistency was great.

that changed yesterday night.
imaging sh-240 with the scope in Zenit my Sesto senso 2 just could not hold the weight of the imaging train anymore.
i lost around 500 focus points with every autofocus run (head to head runs), which led Nina to give me the “hfr is worse after autofocus blabla error message” every time.
imaging was impossible at this point and after spending a whole night and some more hours today I still couldn't resolve the problem.

what I have done and observed until now is the following:
- I upgraded nina
- I upgraded the sesto senso
- I activated the “hold” function of the Sesto senso within the play software
- I did multiple calibration rounds
- checked my Nina settings
- I tightened the esprit 120 fine focus grub screw (it already was very tight, and i am not sure if I have actually turned it because of that)
- I tightened the Sesto senso 2 grub screws that hold on to the fine focussing knob
- I partly engaged the locking screw of the esprit. guess that made a difference. with the locking screw partly engaged the area around my focus point seems to don’t or only very slowly slip. Imaging at around 60 degrees, I only went from an hfr of 2.33 to 2.45 within a hour of imaging
- and yes, it is cold right now, but I have used the exact same setup on nights like this, like a thousand times already

and still… once I point the scope into Zenit, manually moving the focuser to specific positions, there are huge amounts of slippage.
for example, if I manually focus around the 8 mark of the focuser draw tube, the draw tube instantly slips around half a point.
there are a few of this points all over the draw tube.
looking at those specific points where the focuser slips, it is clearly visible that the Sesto senso 2 itself is moving as well. guess that means it isn’t a problem with the Sesto senso not holding tight enough on the focuser knob but more a problem of the Sesto senso 2 being too weak to support the weight of my imaging gear.

well, whats now?
- buying a new electronic focuser?
- changing the draw tube of my esprit to something better like a feather touch?
- using cheap rubber bands on an expensive scope/imaging setup to make it work?

Bildschirmfoto 2026-01-19 um 20.31.06.pngBildschirmfoto 2026-01-19 um 20.30.57.pngthese are my latest autofocus runs in Nina. right now it seems to work but maybe someone more knowledgeable can give me feedback on them.
focus still seems to move inwards a bit but the runs are 45 minutes apart, the scope is well temperated and was outside all day but still, maybe it is just the temperature falling.

i am thankful for any inputs you guys can give me.

thx and clear skies
Anderl

I’m not sure I completely understand what you are seeing as a problem. Your 120ed is achieving focus at about the 80mm mark on the focuser - which is correct. A few hundred .7 micron steps for every 3 degrees of temp drop is right as well. If you manually touch the sesto senso 2 you’ll have to recalibrate it. No reason to calibrate for more than an inch of travel. Mine has like 9000 steps total for operation. When powered the sesto senso 2 will not slip. The focuser on the Esprit is every bit as good as the feathertouch I have in my RC8.

Helpful Concise
Anderl avatar

Monty Chandler · Jan 23, 2026 at 12:04 PM

Anderl · Jan 19, 2026, 07:53 PM

Hey Guys,

some time ago I was quite astonished to hear that there are tak toa users that support their focusers with rubber bands to get rid of slippage.
First time hearing that people support their premium scopes with rubber bands I thought, that can’t be real.

my esprit 120 always had very slight slippage I guess. i recalibrated my focuser maybe once a year, because it lost a few thousand focus positions points within that time. the slippage or whatever it was, was really slow, and my data and focus consistency was great.

that changed yesterday night.
imaging sh-240 with the scope in Zenit my Sesto senso 2 just could not hold the weight of the imaging train anymore.
i lost around 500 focus points with every autofocus run (head to head runs), which led Nina to give me the “hfr is worse after autofocus blabla error message” every time.
imaging was impossible at this point and after spending a whole night and some more hours today I still couldn't resolve the problem.

what I have done and observed until now is the following:
- I upgraded nina
- I upgraded the sesto senso
- I activated the “hold” function of the Sesto senso within the play software
- I did multiple calibration rounds
- checked my Nina settings
- I tightened the esprit 120 fine focus grub screw (it already was very tight, and i am not sure if I have actually turned it because of that)
- I tightened the Sesto senso 2 grub screws that hold on to the fine focussing knob
- I partly engaged the locking screw of the esprit. guess that made a difference. with the locking screw partly engaged the area around my focus point seems to don’t or only very slowly slip. Imaging at around 60 degrees, I only went from an hfr of 2.33 to 2.45 within a hour of imaging
- and yes, it is cold right now, but I have used the exact same setup on nights like this, like a thousand times already

and still… once I point the scope into Zenit, manually moving the focuser to specific positions, there are huge amounts of slippage.
for example, if I manually focus around the 8 mark of the focuser draw tube, the draw tube instantly slips around half a point.
there are a few of this points all over the draw tube.
looking at those specific points where the focuser slips, it is clearly visible that the Sesto senso 2 itself is moving as well. guess that means it isn’t a problem with the Sesto senso not holding tight enough on the focuser knob but more a problem of the Sesto senso 2 being too weak to support the weight of my imaging gear.

well, whats now?
- buying a new electronic focuser?
- changing the draw tube of my esprit to something better like a feather touch?
- using cheap rubber bands on an expensive scope/imaging setup to make it work?

Bildschirmfoto 2026-01-19 um 20.31.06.pngBildschirmfoto 2026-01-19 um 20.30.57.pngthese are my latest autofocus runs in Nina. right now it seems to work but maybe someone more knowledgeable can give me feedback on them.
focus still seems to move inwards a bit but the runs are 45 minutes apart, the scope is well temperated and was outside all day but still, maybe it is just the temperature falling.

i am thankful for any inputs you guys can give me.

thx and clear skies
Anderl

I’m not sure I completely understand what you are seeing as a problem. Your 120ed is achieving focus at about the 80mm mark on the focuser - which is correct. A few hundred .7 micron steps for every 3 degrees of temp drop is right as well. If you manually touch the sesto senso 2 you’ll have to recalibrate it. No reason to calibrate for more than an inch of travel. Mine has like 9000 steps total for operation. When powered the sesto senso 2 will not slip. The focuser on the Esprit is every bit as good as the feathertouch I have in my RC8.

My draw tube is slipping, is it because of the sesto senso? The draw tube itself? I don’t know,

I imaged for 2 more nights now and while m focus point on the draw tube obviously hasn’t moved the sesto reports the focus point around 15.000 points lower.

The sesto senso 2 is known for its slippage problems. There are multiple people with similar problems.

Stjepan Prugovečki avatar

Had exactly the same problem. Got rid of SestoSenso at the end, and mounted Touptek EAF . It works like a Swiss watch now. Tried also ZWO EAF, also no problems whatsoever…

Anderl avatar

Stjepan Prugovečki · Jan 23, 2026 at 05:53 PM

Had exactly the same problem. Got rid of SestoSenso at the end, and mounted Touptek EAF . It works like a Swiss watch now. Tried also ZWO EAF, also no problems whatsoever…

probably the way I will go as well.

andrea tasselli avatar
Or flip it to the other side if the torque requirement is too high.
SonnyE avatar

When I had slippage with my ASI EAF, it was the Crayford focuser AND the EAF being defective.

When I got my 130mm, I was careful to get a helical R&P focuser. (Near 0 backlash) That is when the malfunctioning EAF shown its true colors. Point being, it isn’t always your telescopes focuser. Sometimes it can be other or more than a single problem.

I ironed out mine with a new focuser (PA Focus Cube2), and the R&P on my new telescope. Just to make sure there is never a backlash problem, I have NINA set to run the focuser to eliminate the possibility of backlash. It final focuses on inward travel a few steps.

My EAF was finally replaced when I taught ZWO how to actually test the damn thing. It lives on the Grandkids telescope now for visual observing, with a hand control. They love it.

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