Best telescopes for photographing planetary nebulae and small galaxies?

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Kathleen Jordan avatar

My main objects of interest in astrophotography are planetary nebulae, small to medium-sized galaxies (in apparent size), and planets like Jupiter and Saturn. What are some of the best telescopes for this? Currently, I am eyeing the Celestron 9.25 EdgeHD, but I seriously dont know. What do you think?

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Nicolas Molina avatar

Hi Kathleen

I’m using the Celestron 9.25 EdgeHD with good results on planetary nebulae and galaxies. Of course, aperture is the king. If you can afford it, and your mount can handle it, go for the bigger scope you can.

CS

Nicolas

Rick Veregin avatar

Hi Kathleen

I have a Celestron 9.25 (not EdgeHD) and no experience with the Edge, just what I have read and heard. The advantage of the EdgeHD is that the full field is flat, the C9.25 doesn’t give perfect images right the edge of the field.

I do PN, planets, the Moon, and small galaxies to full field larger galaxies, as well as nebula of all sizes.

For planets and Moon close-ups (where you use a barlow) there is no advantage to the EdgeHD since you only use the center of the field anyway. For PN and all deep sky targets and a full image of the moon I use an f6.3 reducer from Starizona, which gives excellent images to the field edges, and obviously the faster f-ratio. My seeing is rarely better than 2” so it makes no sense to over sample with the full FL, the f6.3 is perfect FL for me. For planets one uses lucky imaging where a long FL is critical to take advantage of the lucky seeing, so the full FL and barlow is the way to go for planets.

The EdgeHD is slightly slower if you get the Celestron 0.7x reducer, but not a big deal.

To make a long story short if your seeing is often excellent then you may want an EdgeHD so you can image at f/10 full focal length deepsky targets that are bigger than maybe 2/3 a crop sensor, but not necessary for smaller targets, or planets where you add a barlow to get the FL you want. But note the Edge f10 ratio is high for deepsky objects that are dim. And again if you are mostly looking at small objects, you don’t need an EdgeHD, it only really shines for the full field at the full focal length, especially if you had a full frame camera. And cost is maybe 1.5x higher for he Edge vs the standard. The Edge 0.7X reducer from Celestron is about the same price as the Starizona f6/3 reducer for the standard C9.25, so that is a wash. The Celestron f6.3 reducer is not great, I would not recommend it with the standard C9.25

All this being said, the SCT’s like the C925 is very good for PN and planets. The C11 and C14 would be even better but are very heavy, need a good mount and generally will be more difficult to use. But as you see on AB, these SCT’s are the favorite for planets.

By the way, I have a Celestron CGX mount which I don’t use a lot anymore, it is not a great mount, even though it is supposed to be better than the other Celestron mounts. I have the Ioptron CEM70ec now with encoders for my C9.25 which is so much better. But there are a lot of other good mounts out there too, depending on your price point.

Good luck

Rick

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Tony Gondola avatar

The classic 9.5 is a good instrument and and will deliver on the kinds of targets you’re interested in. With that said, especially with the moon and planets, something magic happens when you get into large aperture territory. By this I mean 12 inches and up. If you have good seeing, a good C14 or a well designed 12” Newt can be absolutely killer on the moon and planets. I also would expect that you could do amazing things with smaller deep sky objects, especially PN. If you can afford the class of mount needed and have good seeing I would seriously consider it.

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Bill McLaughlin avatar

It really depends on your seeing. You want to get the sampling/focal length of the scope in line with the seeing at your site. Being slightly oversampled by conventional standards can be helpful since things like BXT are helped somewhat by better sampling. Typically you will want 3-4 pixels or somewhat more across your typical best seeing. With a standard 3.76 micron pixel camera that means:

Best seeing 2 arcsec = sampling of about .5 to .7 arcsec

Best seeing 1.5 arcsec = sampling of .4 to .5 arcsec

Best seeing 1 arcsec = sampling of about .25 to .3 arcsec

You can figure your focal length from that

You also don’t want too slow, about f7.5 to f8 at the slowest.

Having said that, if your best seeing seeing is worse than 1.5 arcsec, I would not bother with those targets - you will never be able to produce high res images.

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alpheratz06 avatar

I support the opinion about the importance of seeing.

Using a powerful tube in poor sky conditions will bring frustration.

That being said, there are several aspects to consider :

  • larger aperture will bring more resolution , up to seeing conditions of course

  • larger aperture will bring more photons for the same focal length and reduce exposure time

If you start with a 9.25 SCT, keep in mind this will have 2350mm of focal length, down to 1600 something with a reducer.

No major issue with planetary tracking.

For deep sky, this is another story : you should use a good quality mount, even if the load of a sct is not so high. Correct guiding at high F is not a trivial issue. So don’t bargain with the mount.

It is possible to obtain decent pictures with a good mount and an average+ scope.

The opposite isn’t possible. Full stop. So invest in a good mount as first important item if astrophotography capability is pivotal.

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