DSLR Mod: Installing a Narrowband Filter Directly on the Sensor (Results Included)

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Farshad Mohammadi avatar

Hello everyone!

I wanted to share a super fun mod I did on my DSLR in case anyone is interested or has feedback — or if someone out there has tried something similar!

I recently sent my main astro rig to a remote observatory, and honestly… I started missing those camping nights under the stars way too much. I didn’t want to spend another fortune on new gear, so I decided to work with what I already had and build a capable imaging setup.

I’m using a Nikon D810 that was previously modded (one internal filter removed) to make it more sensitive to Hα. But I really wanted to use narrowband filters with it and with all my lenses from fast to slow and wide to zoomed in. As many of you probably know, dual-band / clip-in narrowband filters for Nikon FX DSLRs are very limited. So I tried 3D-printing an adapter to hold a 2” round filter in front of my lenses — and it kinda worked, but I ran into major issues:

Problems with the 2” Filter Adapter

  1. Extreme vignetting — even at low f-stops and longer focal lengths

  2. Terrible star shapes at anything faster than f/4

  3. Completely unusable with wide or ultra-wide lenses

So… I started thinking differently. What if I put the filter right next to the sensor? And eventually — what if I actually placed it directly ON the sensor with no space in between?

I couldn’t find any guide or post about doing this — so I just went for it!

Here’s what I did:

  • Bought an Optolong L-eXtreme clip-in filter for Z-mount

  • Used acetone to dissolve the glue and free the filter glass (tested it first on a cheap filter to make sure the coating wouldn’t be dissolved!)

  • Disassembled my Nikon D810 and removed the middle sensor filter. (This is what normal mod for Nikon DSLR is)

  • Placed the Optolong glass between the sensor and the dust-protection filter

  • 3D-printed tiny spacers to keep it firmly in position

  • “Sandwiched” the narrowband filter in place (sensor → filter → dust cover)

  • Reassembled the camera just enough for testing

  • Moved the sensor forward so infinity focus would work again (the extra filter thickness changes the focus plane)

  • Took some test shots and adjusted sensor tilt until the stars looked clean

Removed one of the memory card readers — this gave the sensor direct airflow and helped cool it much better than before

———————————————————————————

  • Camera looks the same as original from outside, no change in mirror, focusing or measuring system.

  • image.pngShutter Cover/blade is fully functional as original

  • image.pngBehind the shutter blades, you can see the Dual-band filter behind dust protection filter.

    📷 image.png📷 image.png

  • and finally, you can see the memory card reader that I removed to give the back of the sensor access to direct airflow.

    📷 image.pngimage.png

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Farshad Mohammadi avatar

Adding additional details about the results and test shots.
- vignetting: I don’t see any measurable difference between the original and modded, I am putting some test shots of Flats I took with variety of lenses and F-ratios.

Sigma Art 20mm F1.4

📷 image.png📷 image.png📷 image.png📷image.png

Farshad Mohammadi avatar

Samples: ( I have not applied any calibration frame(flat/dark) to any of below images)
with Nikkor 130mm, F3.5, Single Exposure, 180 Seconds
📷 image.pngimage.png📷 image.pngimage.png📷 image.pngimage.png📷 image.pngimage.png

Farshad Mohammadi avatar

📷 image.pngimage.png

andrea tasselli avatar
Vow! Just vow! Amazed you could pull it off so well. Bravo!!
Farshad Mohammadi avatar

andrea tasselli · Dec 1, 2025, 09:33 AM

Vow! Just vow! Amazed you could pull it off so well. Bravo!!

Andrea, it really is! I couldn’t believe the camera actually worked after I put everything back together.
But now that I’ve gone through the process and understand how this camera (and Nikon bodies in general,tested on D810, D850) works, I’d say it’s not a difficult mod—as long as nothing goes terribly wrong, it’s pretty safe.

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