I’m looking at filters to use with my DSLR/ a future OSC camera and would be grateful for some advice. I’ve got some decent results with the EOS clip in version of the Optolong L-enhance but am now looking at 2” filters to fit better with my current setup. I’ve noticed the Optolong ones are on sale at the moment, is it worthwhile going for the L-enhance again or would I be better off looking at a different one?
Location: Bortle 4
Telescope: Askar 71F + 0.75x reducer (f.5.1)
Hi,
I originally started with the L-enhance while using an H-alpha modified DSLR. After getting a QHY268C I upgraded to the L-extreme and was much happier with the results. On my second 268C I installed the L-quad because I wanted something that would block IR and UV (the 268C has an AR coating only) but let through some of the blue in addition to Ha and Oiii. I’m blown away by this filter. Even on reflection nebulae like what surrounds the Pleiades so much blue comes through it looks like I imaged with just an IR/UV cut filter from a dark-sky site.
Hi,
I started with Optolong filters, but found they have too much halos. Then I moved on and now I have two filters, the Antlia ALP-T 5nm and the SVBony SV 220 with 3nm. Both work perfectly fine. However, the ALP-T has less of a problem with halos. I think the SVBony is currently on sale for half the price of the Antlia, I think that's a very good deal!
Would it be possible to incorporate a 2” filter drawer into your currant DSLR configuration? When I was beginning my adventures into AP I decided I would use a OSC camera because my DSLR was close to half its shutter operations life, and I figured I would burn it out in short order, me being me. 😏
That was 13+ years ago, and I had some pretty bad luck with cameras one turn after another. I’m finally into a ASI2600MC Pro and doing rather well for myself with my equipment and being able to use it. I even did a 3.5-year excursion into Mono (ASI1600MM w/8 position EFW) but never did like all the processing involved with Mono. So, a bit over 2 years ago I came home to OSC again and been really happy ever after.
I don’t know if your clip-in could be removed and reframed into a typical 2” filter frame even. But, if you are inclining toward a camera change, I’d suggest you seriously consider the filtering that works best with Astro Cameras. Presently, I have no incline to use a host of filters with my OSC camera, just Light Pollution filters. (I live in a Bortle impossible area with ignorant neighbors. And have resigned myself to never moving except in a hurst or coroners’ van. I’m 75 and have to get one of our Grandsons to help me dismount my telescope on the really rare times I take it off my mount. 🤣) When I got the 2600MC, I tried it as delivered. I could readily see it needed light pollution filtration. My choice was to get a filter drawer as I had never tried one before, and an Antila Quad LP filter (2” for the APS-C sensor). I’ve been really happy with the single quad filter but jumped into an Svbony SV220 Duo narrowband 3nm very recently in 2” and placed it in my spare drawer. it lives on the face of the 2600 now. It’s working really well.
2” filters are pricey, and 2” filter wheels aren’t exactly high capacity like the smaller sensor camera choices. Typically, they are 5 filter chaps. But taking the direction now would be the best for future growth.
In a Bortle 4 area, you may not even need to worry about LP filters. Multi filters are new to me. So far, so good.
I find myself using two dual-band filters the most with my ASI2600MC, the ALP-T 5 nm and the ASKAR D2. This gives me the ability to produce a HA/OIII/SII narrowband image from OSC, or just a HA/OIII composition depending upon the target. While I have an L-PRO filter, I find myself using the UV/IR filter in my 5 position filter wheel (even though it is probably not necessary but already in the filter wheel) in my Bortle 7 sky and remove the light pollution using the APP tools.
When I started in this hobby, I started with a filter drawer broadband filters (Optolong L-Pro and Antlia TriBand RGB) and a dual narrowband filters (Optolong L-Ultimate, Antlia ALP-T ). I had success with this setup.
I imaged from heavily LP area Bortle Class Sky 8/9 the filters helped. I also used them in Bortle Class Sky 5/6.
Recently, moved to a semi rural area where LP is still an influence but not terrible. I also keep my imaging intact after each session. I explored the idea of automating my filter use, not having to swap out filters . That led me to use a 5 Position EFW for both of the scopes:
CEHD 9.25 Filters
Slot 1 LUM Antlia V-Series Luminance
Slot 2 RGB Antlia Triband RGB Ultra
Slot 3 Ha/OIII Antlia ALP-T Dual band 3nm
Slot 4 Hb/SII Antlia ALP-T Dual band 3.5nm
Slot 5 Dark filter
CEHD 8 Filters
Slot 1 LUM Antlia V-Series Luminance
Slot 2 RGB Antlia Quad band
Slot 3 Ha/OIII Antlia ALP-T Dual band 5nm
Slot 4 Hb/SII Antlia ALP-T Dual band 5nm
Slot 5 Dark filter
I am collecting data using this setup, and so far, the automation is quite easy. No halos, no dust motes, and the Antlia filters seem to have better contrast than the Optolong IMHO.
Narrowband Filter 7nm SII & OIII SV220 2inch | Svbony
and the Optlong L-Extreme or L-Ultimate
SII = on red from the svbony, OIII= che combination of the blu channel coming from both filters and the Green from =Ha coming from the ultimate/extreme
also the broadband capabilities built-in in your osc camera, those SII/OIII are going to revolutionize the approach to narrowband and OSC
my 2 cents
CS
Other than the choice of filter bands, the two things that seem to differentiate multi-band filters the most are:
* bandwidth - Expect skyglow shot noise to be reduced in proportion to the narrowness of the filter bandwidth. A narrower bandwidth filter can improve your image quality with less integration time. Two narrow a filter in a very fast scope can shift the band centers off axis and reduce signal away from the center.
* halos - Some filters cause artificial looking halos around bright stars. The severity varies from brand to brand and some have improved their halo performance over time, so older versions may not do as well as newer.
Personally, I mostly use the L-Ultimate because it does very well by both measures and combines Ha and O3 which has a fortuitous match to the Bayer matrix in OSC cameras. I much prefer it to my L-eNhance at my Bortle 7 home.
For way more detail, I highly recommend James Thompson’s series of filter reports. He does a great job both for both the theory and comparative observed results. Over the past few years he has covered most multi-band filters of interest. You can download PDFs of his test below.
From my experience, the Antlia Triband RGB filter should be a good fit for an OSC camera in a Bortle 4 location. It can also serve as a kind of UHC filter for visual observations. :)
You can check two images taken with this filter in my AB portfolio (IC 1805 and IC 1396) to get a better idea of what it can do.
RobPettengill · Dec 1, 2025, 02:29 AM
Other than the choice of filter bands, the two things that seem to differentiate multi-band filters the most are:
* bandwidth - Expect skyglow shot noise to be reduced in proportion to the narrowness of the filter bandwidth. A narrower bandwidth filter can improve your image quality with less integration time. Two narrow a filter in a very fast scope can shift the band centers off axis and reduce signal away from the center.
* halos - Some filters cause artificial looking halos around bright stars. The severity varies from brand to brand and some have improved their halo performance over time, so older versions may not do as well as newer.
Personally, I mostly use the L-Ultimate because it does very well by both measures and combines Ha and O3 which has a fortuitous match to the Bayer matrix in OSC cameras. I much prefer it to my L-eNhance at my Bortle 7 home.
For way more detail, I highly recommend James Thompson’s series of filter reports. He does a great job both for both the theory and comparative observed results. Over the past few years he has covered most multi-band filters of interest. You can download PDFs of his test below.
Jim Thompson’s research is very insightful and a must-read. It helped guide me to my purchasing decision with the ALP-T 3nm filters.
I am quite a beginner, about one year in astrophotos and I am so pleased by the SVBony 7 nm Filters, HO and SO. Used toghether in two different shots will lead you to the results you can see at my dualband images.
Of course more expensive filters are supposed to be better in some specific areas, I thing less halos around brightest stars but the quality over price for my experience with SVBony is almost unbeatable.
This my 2c idea