eric belanger · Oct 28, 2025, 11:03 PM
Hello everyone.
Im planning on sending a rig to starfront observatory. I think i want to go with an OSC setup with filter wheel (l-pro filter , antlia ha-oiii , antlia oiii-sii ) and 2600mc
I was wondering if the difference in image quality would be pretty noticeable ? Between osc and mono ….from bortle 1-2 !
I know from city , bortle 7 , like where i am . I get better results with mono , but from a dark sky….is it less obvious ?
Thank you :)
I shoot OSC at Starfront with an Askar 71F w/.75 reducer, ASI2600 MC Pro, and filter wheel. I don’t have any experience with mono, but here’s my take.
Bortle 1 makes both OSC and mono better than the same configuration under Bortle 7. From a pure quality standpoint, the difference between OSC and mono is greater under Bortle 1 than it is under Bortle 7.
DELETE: Mono requires 3x to 5x more total integration time than OSC . It still does under Bortle 1, EDIT: Mono imagers often spend more time imaging than OSC imagers, due to significantly more filter changes, the need to shoot more flats, and the fact that more integration time in mono yields significantly better results than OSC. At Starfront, good imaging nights are more common than non-imaging nights, so there’s more total time available to shoot mono. You’ll get more done in less calendar nights.
The same principle applies to OSC. I shot about 102 hours of narrowband on the Bat and Squid Nebula in 23 sessions over about 42 days in July and August. It would have taken me forever to get 100 hours at home.
So both mono and narrowband benefit from Bortle 1, but in terms of quality, mono benefits more. The arguments I use to justify OSC don’t change based on sky quality — it’s still easier and takes less time. But if we’re talking quality, mono is still going to win, and it’s going to win more obviously.
If you end up sending an OSC setup, let’s talk about filters.
I don’t think you need the L-Pro at all. There’s no light pollution so you’re just throwing away photons.
I like your Antlia filters. I shoot with just an Optolong L-Ultimate — it keeps things simpler. But the two dual band — or a good triband — will be great.
Add a dark filter. It will let you shoot darks during the day when the roof is closed and have a better chance at it working well.
On a related topic, strongly consider a Deep Sky Dad OFP2 motorized flat panel. The O at the beginning is for “observatory” and it was designed for use at Starfront. The reason is that the flap slides down and away from the scope as opposed to flipping outward. This keeps your swing radius virtually the same. They’re the only flat panels permitted on mini piers for that reason. Furthermore, they are designed so the light doesn’t turn on unless the flap is closed. This prevents you from lighting up the whole building when others are trying to shoot darks. The reason I said this is related to filters is that you can shoot darks with the flap closed and the light turned off. This, combined with a dark filter in your filter wheel, gives you a lower chance of light getting in and ruining your darks.
The flat panel makes it all-around easier to shoot flats. You don’t have to time it just right to take “sky flats”. Just do them before you start imaging or after your done. Easy.