Seeking internal flat black coating recommendations for UltraCat 108 adapter

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DavesView avatar

I recently had an adapter made for an UltraCat 108. Looking for recommendation on an internal flat black coating. My thoughts are Cerakote. Anybody know of a better solution? It’s the piece just in front of the rotator.

📷 STX_Replacement_Adapt_1.jpgSTX_Replacement_Adapt_1.jpg📷 20251026_143329.jpg20251026_143329.jpg

andrea tasselli avatar
DavesView avatar
Brian Puhl avatar

+1 on the Musou. I’ve used this on my filter masks to black them out, and others followed my lead with success.

One word of caution, is it’s a water based paint. While I haven’t had any issue with it in the year and a half of using, it could theoretically run if it gets wet again.

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DavesView avatar

Brian Puhl · Oct 28, 2025, 03:18 PM

+1 on the Musou. I’ve used this on my filter masks to black them out, and others followed my lead with success.

One word of caution, is it’s a water based paint. While I haven’t had any issue with it in the year and a half of using, it could theoretically run if it gets wet again.

Does it get tacky quick and what is a good method for applying it… sponge, brush, etc.? How is the spread/flow of the material? I also read that it can be cut up to 40%.

John Hayes avatar

You can get Musou Black on Amazon and it is what I’ve used on all of my internal astro-parts for many years. Properly applied, it has a reflectivity of around 0.5% and it is likely to be the blackest paint that you’ve ever seen. The important thing is that to get that kind of performance, it must be applied with an air-brush; not simply brushed on. You don’t need a super high end air-brush. This is the one that I have and it works really well for this purpose: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092D2YB8R?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1

Musou Black is water soluble and you’ll have to thin it a bit for the air brush. I’ve found that a 2:1 mixture of paint to water works well to prevent the air brush from clogging. You’ll have to apply about 6 coats to get full coverage but the effort will be worth it. The final result is extremely black and pretty durable. One note: Never touch the painted surface. That will “gloss” the paint and greatly reduce its anti-reflective properties. It will also rub off if you touch it. That’s because the air-brush process creates a “flock-like” surface that it pretty fragile. So…just don’t touch it and you’ll be fine. I’ve had parts in the field for well over ten years that have been painted with this paint and it holds up without any degradation. I’ve also never seen it chip or flake off in any way.

Do it right and this is the second blackest paint on the planet (by only a little bit)—and it’s affordable, easy to get, and easy to apply.

- John

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andrea tasselli avatar
uhm, I used it 25 years ago for an adaptor I created and used a brush, although a fancy one. It is still there (i have checked), dark as sin…
Charles Hagen avatar

@John Hayes what kind of surface prep do you prefer when painting with Musou Black? Especially for aluminum / anodized parts.

John Hayes avatar

Charles Hagen · Oct 28, 2025, 11:54 PM

@John Hayes what kind of surface prep do you prefer when painting with Musou Black? Especially for aluminum / anodized parts.

Charlie,

I just clean up the surface with some pure isopropyl alcohol. The main thing is to make sure that the surface isn’t oily or greasy. If you really want a rough surface, you could sand it and then clean it up. I’ve never done that but it should work well.

- John

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lunohodov avatar

I used it a couple of years ago to blacken a dew shield. Applied several coats with a sponge and tapping motion. No degradation yet.

Here a comparison photo I did at the time:

📷 IMG_6F9FDF501A8C-1.jpegIMG_6F9FDF501A8C-1.jpeg

DavesView avatar

I received the Musou and applied a little on a sheet of paper just to see. Man, this stuff is blacker than black. It is super dull when brushed on. I believe it would be just fine for suppressing any light reflection with a brush application, but taking John’s recommendation, I have also ordered up the suggested air brush. Having done that, I’ll wait and spray it on, having considerable experience in spraying everything from mastics, zinc coatings, enamels, other industrial coatings and epoxies. I tried rubbing it off the paper and it holds extremely well after just a couple of minutes. I’ll give it a test run on some anodized aluminum before I go with the intended part. As always, you guys are spot on with help. Thanks!

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John Hayes avatar

DavesView · Oct 30, 2025, 05:17 PM

I received the Musou and applied a little on a sheet of paper just to see. Man, this stuff is blacker than black. It is super dull when brushed on. I believe it would be just fine for suppressing any light reflection with a brush application, but taking John’s recommendation, I have also ordered up the suggested air brush. Having done that, I’ll wait and spray it on, having considerable experience in spraying everything from mastics, zinc coatings, enamels, other industrial coatings and epoxies. I tried rubbing it off the paper and it holds extremely well after just a couple of minutes. I’ll give it a test run on some anodized aluminum before I go with the intended part. As always, you guys are spot on with help. Thanks!

Dave,

It is indeed very black when brushed on, but wait until you see how much blacker it is when you air brush it. All the trouble needed to airbrush it may seem like overkill, but it really counts for some things like the inside of connector tubes. Just remember that we are trying to amplify the very faintest signals in an image so you don’t want even the smallest stray reflection to make it to the sensor where it can be easily revealed with an aggressive stretch. Good luck with it!

In case anyone has any doubts, here’s a photo comparing standard flat black spray paint to Musou Black (painted on) illuminated by a super bright light at the specular angle.

📷 Black Sandpaper.jpgBlack Sandpaper.jpgHere is a comparison with a part from Precise Parts to a part I made and air brushed with Musou Black.

📷 ONAG - Gemini Adapter Black Comparison.jpgONAG - Gemini Adapter Black Comparison.jpgAnd finally, here’s another adapter that I made with Musou Black air brushed on the inside. It is so black that you can’t see any of the internal threaded AR structure without using an extremely bright light. Properly applied, this stuff is REALLY black!

📷 ONAG to FLI Adapter2.jpgONAG to FLI Adapter2.jpg

John

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DavesView avatar

I mixed it 50/50 and used a 3mm tip with the needle travel at about half. Sprayed it ever so lightly, not to have it look wet. Did not have any tip build up issues or clogging. It dried within 5 minutes or so between coats (out in 70 degrees sunlight). Had it taped off well. Applied 6 coats, let it dry an hour further in the sun. Put the adapter on and the stray light is totally gone. Cleanup was easy. Thanks!

Rick Krejci avatar

Glad you were able to rid yourself of the dreaded STX with a solid solution and successfully “flock” it!

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John Hayes avatar

DavesView · Nov 2, 2025, 05:08 PM

I mixed it 50/50 and used a 3mm tip with the needle travel at about half. Sprayed it ever so lightly, not to have it look wet. Did not have any tip build up issues or clogging. It dried within 5 minutes or so between coats (out in 70 degrees sunlight). Had it taped off well. Applied 6 coats, let it dry an hour further in the sun. Put the adapter on and the stray light is totally gone. Cleanup was easy. Thanks!

Perfect!! Thanks for the follow up report and I’m delighted to hear that it was easy and worked well.

John

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John Hayes avatar

Here is a photo of a custom part that I recently made for Adam Block’s telescope. The inside is painted with Mousu Black and the part is very brightly lit. Can you see the internal mounting lip on the inside (in the blackest region)? Yep, that’s how black this paint is!

John

📷 Photo of Pellicle Adapter 11-12-25.jpgPhoto of Pellicle Adapter 11-12-25.jpg

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John Stone avatar
John, 

Do you mind sharing the machine shop you used to design and manufacture this part?   

I've frequently wanted things that PreciseParts couldn't make for me, or I wanted them made slightly differently.

Thanks,
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John Hayes avatar

John Stone · Nov 14, 2025 at 06:33 AM

John, 

Do you mind sharing the machine shop you used to design and manufacture this part?   

I've frequently wanted things that PreciseParts couldn't make for me, or I wanted them made slightly differently.

Thanks,

I have all of my custom CNC parts made in China through Xometry. The quality of the machining and anodizing is absolutely top notch and they have been very good about contacting me if the machinist spots an error in the drawings or tolerances. Delivery time has been getting a bit longer and due to a Chinese holiday, this last part took almost a month before it was delivered. DJT’s crazy tariff nonsense is also going to drive the prices up. This last part was unaffected but Xometry works with suppliers all over the world so having something made outside of the US may not necessarily mean that it goes to China. Xometry will let you specify a shop in the US but the price for that option is usually double (or more) and I’m never in that big of a hurry. Anyway, I give a big thumb up to Xometry. They are really fantastic to deal with.

John