Newt to complement 80mm APO?

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nadz11.ns avatar
I currently image with a TS Optics 80mm APO (544mm, f/6.8) on a SkyWatcher Wave 150i, with a Touptek 533 and filter wheel. 

The image quality is great, but under Bortle 7–8 skies here in Ireland, the limited number of clear nights means f/6.8 forces me into long integration times to get the results I want.

I am considering adding a faster Newtonian mainly for calm nights, while keeping the APO for windier nights and for convenience. The options I am looking at are:

• SkyWatcher Quattro 150P – fast system and comes with a coma corrector. Shorter tube than the PDS and similar focal length to my APO.

• SkyWatcher 150PDS – f/5 and longer focal length, but would need to buy a coma corrector separately. Tube is longer than the Quattro.

My thought process:
The 150P gives me a similar focal length to my APO, but with a faster f-ratio and more aperture, so I can better exploit the rare clear nights. However, I’m unsure whether it makes sense to buy a second scope with almost the same focal length.

If you were in my situation, would you add a fast Newt at a similar FL for speed, or would you choose a different focal range instead? I’d like to keep the telescope + accessories under €1k if possible, but I’m open to practical suggestions based on real experience. Happy with the FOV at this FL. 

I also know the SW Newts often benefit from upgrades like a better secondary spider, primary mask, and focuser.

One question here: with a solid spider, will collimation generally hold when moving the tube in and out of the house? Minor tweaks are fine, but I don’t want major collimation work every session.
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andrea tasselli avatar
There are better options than the SW series for a 6" f/4 newton, such as this: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/stellalyra-telescopes/stellalyra-6-f4-m-lrn-d-carbon-fibre-imaging-newtonian-reflector-with-2-dual-speed-rp-focuser.html

In general I'd say that if you handle your newton not too harshly the collimation will stay put, assuming the primary is fitted properly. The secondary is just too small to cause any grief on its own, again if properly mounted. As per the focal length, or focal ratio if you will, then if you want to maximize throughput you chose the fastest scope for a given sensor size and be done with it. In my experience in windy UK I'd say a f/4 newton has far better chances to resist wind loading for a given mount than a f/5 one.
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nadz11.ns avatar
andrea tasselli:
There are better options than the SW series for a 6" f/4 newton, such as this: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/stellalyra-telescopes/stellalyra-6-f4-m-lrn-d-carbon-fibre-imaging-newtonian-reflector-with-2-dual-speed-rp-focuser.html

In general I'd say that if you handle your newton not too harshly the collimation will stay put, assuming the primary is fitted properly. The secondary is just too small to cause any grief on its own, again if properly mounted. As per the focal length, or focal ratio if you will, then if you want to maximize throughput you chose the fastest scope for a given sensor size and be done with it. In my experience in windy UK I'd say a f/4 newton has far better chances to resist wind loading for a given mount than a f/5 one.

Thank you for sharing. I will check out the Stellalyra one. 

You are right, f/4 would be physically smaller than f/5 for the same aperture and play better in our conditions.
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Tony Gondola avatar

I won’t get into the weeds of this or that scope but to address your basic problem, yes, keeping the focal length the same but decreasing the focal ratio by increasing the aperture is a great solution.

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Erlend Langsrud avatar

I can only say what I would do. I would get a 6” F/5 newt to get a bit more range and in case I wanted to do some planetary in the future.

I don’t think av 6” F/4 newt will complement your refractor. It will replace it. You will find you get so much more signal once you overcome the hassle with collimation, straylight etc.

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nadz11.ns avatar
Erlend Langsrud:
I can only say what I would do. I would get a 6” F/5 newt to get a bit more range and in case I wanted to do some planetary in the future.

I don’t think av 6” F/4 newt will complement your refractor. It will replace it. You will find you get so much more signal once you overcome the hassle with collimation, straylight etc.

Thank you. 
I am starting to think the same and it might make the 80mm redundant. 

I will think about it more before committing to anything.
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Chris White- Overcast Observatory avatar

If you plan on using a small sensor like that, you could even get into something really fast, like the f2.8 Newts. I think sharp star makes a 6” f2.8. It will have a shorter focal length than your refractor, but will really drink up photons in your limiting skies (at the expense of being a little undersampled of course). With a smaller chip you dont need a huge corrected field, and while collimation is magnitudes more sensitive with a faster scope, its a skill that you will need to learn and be able to succeed at whether f4 or f2.8. I havent used this scope, butit might pair well with your 533.

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nadz11.ns avatar
Chris White- Overcast Observatory:
If you plan on using a small sensor like that, you could even get into something really fast, like the f2.8 Newts. I think sharp star makes a 6” f2.8. It will have a shorter focal length than your refractor, but will really drink up photons in your limiting skies (at the expense of being a little undersampled of course). With a smaller chip you dont need a huge corrected field, and while collimation is magnitudes more sensitive with a faster scope, its a skill that you will need to learn and be able to succeed at whether f4 or f2.8. I havent used this scope, butit might pair well with your 533.

I'll check it out. Thanks for the suggestion
andrea tasselli avatar
Expensive and pointless, for a small sensor. At most get the Nexus 0.75x CC.
dummieastro avatar

nadz11.ns · Oct 23, 2025, 09:20 AM

I currently image with a TS Optics 80mm APO (544mm, f/6.8) on a SkyWatcher Wave 150i, with a Touptek 533 and filter wheel. 

The image quality is great, but under Bortle 7–8 skies here in Ireland, the limited number of clear nights means f/6.8 forces me into long integration times to get the results I want.

I am considering adding a faster Newtonian mainly for calm nights, while keeping the APO for windier nights and for convenience. The options I am looking at are:

• SkyWatcher Quattro 150P – fast system and comes with a coma corrector. Shorter tube than the PDS and similar focal length to my APO.

• SkyWatcher 150PDS – f/5 and longer focal length, but would need to buy a coma corrector separately. Tube is longer than the Quattro.

My thought process:
The 150P gives me a similar focal length to my APO, but with a faster f-ratio and more aperture, so I can better exploit the rare clear nights. However, I’m unsure whether it makes sense to buy a second scope with almost the same focal length.

If you were in my situation, would you add a fast Newt at a similar FL for speed, or would you choose a different focal range instead? I’d like to keep the telescope + accessories under €1k if possible, but I’m open to practical suggestions based on real experience. Happy with the FOV at this FL. 

I also know the SW Newts often benefit from upgrades like a better secondary spider, primary mask, and focuser.

One question here: with a solid spider, will collimation generally hold when moving the tube in and out of the house? Minor tweaks are fine, but I don’t want major collimation work every session.

8” f4 if your budget will allow. Gets you 800mm a nice jump from 80mm at 544mm. Otherwise a Carbonstar 150 f4 at 600mm. Faster more light gathering but essentially the same reach.

CS, Bob

Tony Gondola avatar

nadz11.ns · Oct 23, 2025, 09:20 AM

One question here: with a solid spider, will collimation generally hold when moving the tube in and out of the house? Minor tweaks are fine, but I don’t want major collimation work every session.

That’s exactly what I do and it’s not an issue. That’s with a totally stock GSO with no changes other than a mirror mask.

Chris White- Overcast Observatory avatar

andrea tasselli · Oct 26, 2025, 09:33 PM

Expensive and pointless, for a small sensor. At most get the Nexus 0.75x CC.

Rubbish… In B7/8 skies, an f2.8 newt would be great, regardless of sensor. And it could correct up to APS-C for the next camera. They claim full frame correction, but I think thats just probably marketing gibberish.

Jordan Morley avatar

Try to get anything used under 8” and just mess around with it cos whichever one you get its going to need tinkering and that’s the best part of having a newt (:

nadz11.ns avatar
nadz11.ns · Oct 23, 2025, 09:20 AM

I currently image with a TS Optics 80mm APO (544mm, f/6.8) on a SkyWatcher Wave 150i, with a Touptek 533 and filter wheel. 

The image quality is great, but under Bortle 7–8 skies here in Ireland, the limited number of clear nights means f/6.8 forces me into long integration times to get the results I want.

I am considering adding a faster Newtonian mainly for calm nights, while keeping the APO for windier nights and for convenience. The options I am looking at are:

• SkyWatcher Quattro 150P – fast system and comes with a coma corrector. Shorter tube than the PDS and similar focal length to my APO.

• SkyWatcher 150PDS – f/5 and longer focal length, but would need to buy a coma corrector separately. Tube is longer than the Quattro.

My thought process:
The 150P gives me a similar focal length to my APO, but with a faster f-ratio and more aperture, so I can better exploit the rare clear nights. However, I’m unsure whether it makes sense to buy a second scope with almost the same focal length.

If you were in my situation, would you add a fast Newt at a similar FL for speed, or would you choose a different focal range instead? I’d like to keep the telescope + accessories under €1k if possible, but I’m open to practical suggestions based on real experience. Happy with the FOV at this FL. 

I also know the SW Newts often benefit from upgrades like a better secondary spider, primary mask, and focuser.

One question here: with a solid spider, will collimation generally hold when moving the tube in and out of the house? Minor tweaks are fine, but I don’t want major collimation work every session.

8” f4 if your budget will allow. Gets you 800mm a nice jump from 80mm at 544mm. Otherwise a Carbonstar 150 f4 at 600mm. Faster more light gathering but essentially the same reach.

CS, Bob

Yes, looking at available options in 8" as well. 
Thanks
Jordan Morley:
Try to get anything used under 8” and just mess around with it cos whichever one you get its going to need tinkering and that’s the best part of having a newt (:

not many used options around unfortunately. 
I am on the lookout though
nadz11.ns avatar
Hi folks,


After taking a good look at my local environmental conditions, I decided to sell the 80mm and go for an Askar 103mm instead.

I know this wasn’t even on the table when I first started this thread!

The main factor behind the decision is that it’s almost always windy here in Ireland, and my backyard layout tends to create a tunneling effect that amplifies the wind even more. A Newtonian would be like a sail in those conditions.

I also liked the field of view that the 80mm gave me, and with the Askar 103mm + 0.8x reducer, I’ll get something quite similar. And it had slightly more aperture and is faster than 80mm at f/6.8. 

The cost of the Askar 103mm is also reasonable compared to other options, and paired with my IMX533 camera, it should be a very good fit. The selling price of 80mm will help with the purchase. 

I chose the Askar 103mm specifically for its flexibility, I can use it with the 0.8x reducer (bringing it to 560mm, f/5.5) or at 1x (700mm, f/6.8) when the seeing conditions are better.


I am really fascinated with Newtonians in general with their large apertures, and will consider them in the  future if I ever try and build a backyard obsy. 

Thank you all for taking the time to comment, even though I ended up going in a different direction in the end. 😉
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