I'm getting terrible pictures with this Player One camera, can someone help?

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John Stone avatar
Hi,

I purchased a Player-One Uranus M in the spring right around the time QHY and ToupTek perfected HDR mode on their versions of the IMX585 cameras.   At the time Player One did not have HDR mode but after talking with customer service and learning they would support it later in the year I placed my order relying on their reputation for excellence in hardware and camera manufacturing.

After after using the camera now with their recent release of HDR mode support. I'm getting terrible results.   Conversations with their support department ended with "the camera is operating within normal parameters" brush off.  Something you'd expect from ZWO, but not from Player One who it is my understanding was founded by ex-ZWO employees who desired to create premium products.

In any case here's what every master file looks like after stacking using standard WBPP settings in PixInsight regardless of target chosen or length of integration.   The same WBPP settings that when used with their Ares M (IMX533) camera produce fantastic results.

The following pictures are representative of the problem and were produced by stacking data taken at the same time and in the same location with two telescope systems shooting nearly identical pixel scales. 

Uranus-M result:

Ares-M result:





I'm at my wits end and am seriously considering dumping the whole camera and replacing it with something from ToupTek (since their cameras support 1.25" filter wheels).

Here's a link to a google drive containing all raw files:  Bias, Darks, Lights along with the results of my various attempts to stack things up to produce a useable master.

If someone can point out something I've missed and can produce nice clean and smooth backgrounds in the stacked images I would greatly appreciate learning how it was done.

Here's the link to all the raw data:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1WGfR-3anA9w20W85r7fxRmVRPWSyonTw?usp=sharing

Thanks to everyone who cares to take a look.
Wim van Berlo avatar

I don’t have that camera, but I get similar blotches when my calibration images don’t match the lights. Do you get the same result when you don’t use HDR mode?

I’m also skeptical about the idea of using an HDR mode in an astro camera, if HDR means that the camera takes multiple exposures to increase its dynamic range. How is that handled during image calibration in the stacking software?

Cs,

Wim

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andrea tasselli avatar
Your flats got bumps!
andrea tasselli avatar
Nothing wrong, apart from the flats (except one!!).

andrea tasselli avatar
AstroStew avatar

Player one was not created fromZWO employees, but it was one of the two founding partners in the company that left and started player one, so at the end of the day why would the customer service be any better than ZWO

andrea tasselli avatar
AstroStew:
Player one was not created fromZWO employees, but it was one of the two founding partners in the company that left and started player one, so at the end of the day why would the customer service be any better than ZWO

*But they are right, the camera is operating normally.
John Stone avatar
andrea tasselli:
Nothing wrong, apart from the flats (except one!!).


Andrea,

Thanks for looking into this.  You've created a much better stacked image than what I get with WBPP.   Can you share the details on how you created it?

Thanks.
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andrea tasselli avatar
A very simplified workflow with respect to what I do normally but here it is:

Step 1.

Step 2.
StarAlignment

Step 3.


That's all. The critical bit is in creating the right flat. The one that works is the HCG one, the others are rubbish.
John Stone avatar
andrea tasselli:
That's all. The critical bit is in creating the right flat. The one that works is the HCG one, the others are rubbish.


Okay, herein lies the problem and makes me believe the camera DOES have a defect.

The lights were taken in HDR mode, GAIN 0, Offset 50  (which produces a bias of 200 adu)
The "lumpy" flats were taken in HDR mode, GAIN 0, Offset 50 (which matches the lights)
The HGC flats were taken in "normal" mode, GAIN 125, Offset 3 (which produces a bias of 192 adu)
So the "best" result was with flats taken in a completely differently operating mode than the corresponding BIAS and LIGHTS.  That doesn't make sense.

Here's a lumpy flat in HDR mode:



And here's the same area of the sensor in HGC mode:



The fact that a better result was produced by the second flat than the first shows in dim light (LIGHTS) the sensor's response is more like the second flat than the first.

If this camera's pixel's response to flat frames brightness (50% max ADU)  is different than those very same pixel's response to light frames (maybe 0.5% max ADU) and produces "lumpy" ADUs in bright light in HDR mode but "smooth or different" ADUs in dim light in HDR mode then the camera can't be calibrated and is useless to me.

P.S.  To rule out any problems with my flat panel I took flats with a different panel, a tracing table, and sky flats through a tee-shirt.   All of them produced the same lumpy flats which leads to the blotchy backgrounds.  The problem is not the flat light source.
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andrea tasselli avatar
No, the problem isn't the light source, it's the HDR mode. They switch modes (HCG -> HDR) at some switchover exposure length so that for very short (compared to the lights) the HCG flat produce the right response and the other one does not. Besides, don't the master calibrate right? If they do, you're good.
John Stone avatar
The problem with the IMX585 is that it's full well exceeds the resolution of it's 12-bit ADC so I believe the chip has two separate 12-bit ADC circuits with 2 different pre-amps feeding the ADCs.  The HGC ADC has less read-noise and the LCG ADC higher read noise.

I think they way HDR mode is implemented on the IMX585 is that both the LCG and the HCG ADCs are activated simultaneously and since they have different analog pre-amps they can be tuned to convert different ranges of the analog voltage read out of the camera's pixel-well and when the ADU values from each ADC are combined in a certain way it can produce a result as if it were a single 16-bit ADC.

In HDR mode a single picture can have ADU values spanning the entire 16-bit range;  some very dark and some very bright (that's the whole point of this mode).   I can't see a way to take reverse the HDR computation and sperate the pixels in the images into ones coming from the HGC ADC and other coming from the LCG ADC and apply different flat correction to each of them … and I shouldn't have too.

For a camera to be useful for astrophotography it's ADC's have to behave in a predicable way so that the image can be calibrated and that's not what's happing with my camera.

If all owners of these PlayerOne cameras were experiencing what I'm experiencing I think we'd have heard of it by now, so this leads me to believe that my camera in particular is behaving differently than the others  and hence is defective and being defective I would expect Player One to stand behind their product and honor their warranty.

That's not what's happening here for a $600 camera to it doesn't bode well for any problems that might arise on their $3500 cameras and if you can't trust a manufacturer to stand behind it's products then it's always my recommendation to buy elsewhere.   This is surprising to me because to my knowledge I'm the only Player One customer that I know of who's been getting the brush off.  Other people have reported very responsive and accommodating customer support from Player One.
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Jochen Schambach avatar

Hi,

Ich habe die uranus c (planetary) und heute das Update gemacht.

Was mir aufgefallen ist, je länger ich bei gain 0 ein dark belichte je höher muss ich den Offset einstellen.

Von Player One habe ich die Info das bei gain 0, der gain vom hcg bild schon bei 273 liegt und man daher den gain nicht über 180 einstellen soll.

Habe aber dazu noch mal den Support angeschrieben.

Tony Gondola avatar

I have the Toupek 585m version and I haven’t seen anything like this running in HDR mode. The way HDR mode works is that one image is taken but the data is processed on the chip with both LCG and HCG amps. That data is then combined to produce the final HDR output. Another aspect of that, at least in the Touptek version is that offset is kept at zero and shouldn’t be changed, the same for gain. I always shoot HDR at zero offset and min (100) gain. Of course the same settings are used for flats. Darks and bias frames are done the standard way.

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