Monochrome or color camera for astrophotography?

James Peirceandrea tasselliTony GondolaMartin JuniusJoepsAstronomy
42 replies1.3k views
Lukas Bauer avatar

Hello guys,

My old astromodified DSLR just died (Canon 40D) and I am currently searching for a dedicated astrophotography camera.
At the moment I have two cameras in particular which both seem like a good choice. The first camera is the Player One Ares and the second is the Player One Poseidon.

My question is, if a monochrome camera is really that much better than a osc camera.

I wrote a table and listed all the options I have to see what would be the cheapest offer. Taking all the prices off the official Player One Website, I calculated the following prices:

Player One Ares MONO: ~1500€
Player One Ares COLOR: ~900€

Player One Poseidon MONO: ~2750€
Player One Poseidon COLOR: ~1400€

For calulating the prices of the mono cameras, I combined the prices of the camera, a fitting filter wheel, a full set of filters (LRGB + SHO) and a autofocuser (I didn’t choose a particular focuser, I just estimated ~250€).
For calulating the prices of the color cameras, I just added the prices of the camera, a filter drawer and a light pollution filter, as I live in a small town (Bortle 4 sky) and have bright street lamps all around me.

I also looked at photos here on astrobin captured by the different cameras and I think that I like the pictures taken from the Poseidon a bit more. Maybe it’s the higher MP (Ares: 9 MP; Poseidon: 26 MP). I just think that the pictures taken with the poseidon look just a bit cleaner.

Furthermore I read that it is easier to frame the pictures with the ares because of the square sensor, which isn’t really a valid point for me, as I only have to frame it once in the beginning of the night and don’t have to reframe it if I’m shooting the same object the following night.

My question now is, which camera would you think is the best choice for me? Keep in mind, that I am still a student and am really uncomfortable to spend more than ~2000€ for my first dedicated astro-camera. That’s why I am currently unsure, if the Ares mono or Poseidon color would be the better choice. Or would the Poseidon mono be worth the 700€ more? Do you have any experience with any (or both) of the cameras mentioned above?
Or would you even recommend a completely different camera? I just looked into the Player One cameras as they have a very appealing design, take really nice pictures as I have heard in reviews and are praised by their amazing costumer support by a lot of people.

Thanks a lot in advance!
Lukas

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bigCatAstro avatar

I think another part of the equation to look at besides the cameras is integration processing and if your current set-up can handle compiling and storing more data. With the switch to mono you will need to process data differently and it could impact your speed.

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JoepsAstronomy avatar

Both chips are lovely. The 533 produces great results, both in color and in Mono. The 3×3 MP is a little bit small in my opinion though. When you have to crop you quickly lose resolution so framing is quite important.

I’d say it also depends on the amount of time you have based on clear nights. If you have a decent location and get 3-4 good nights a month outside of full moon you can consider mono. But if you have regular months where you wonder if you ever see stars, probably color is a better choice.

For mono you kind of ‘need’ to go with a filter wheel. For a OSC you pretty much need only an IR/UV Cut and a good dual band filter so a drawer is fine, you can even screw in a 2” filter is many telescope backsides.

The difference between mono and color is pretty significant. I don’t want to go back to OSC, but I see some people with both the 2600MC and 533MC with enough integration and a relatively fast scope produce very nice results. Mono is almost always a multi night endeavour and you need more patience.

One tip: buy 36mm filters if you go with a wheel. Not that much more expensive than 1.25”, but it is more future proof. Otherwise you have to buy a new camera + the filters also.

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andrea tasselli avatar
Lukas Bauer:
Hello guys,

My old astromodified DSLR just died (Canon 40D) and I am currently searching for a dedicated astrophotography camera.
At the moment I have two cameras in particular which both seem like a good choice. The first camera is the Player One Ares and the second is the Player One Poseidon.

My question is, if a monochrome camera is really that much better than a osc camera.

I wrote a table and listed all the options I have to see what would be the cheapest offer. Taking all the prices off the official Player One Website, I calculated the following prices:

Player One Ares MONO: ~1500€
Player One Ares COLOR: ~900€

Player One Poseidon MONO: ~2750€
Player One Poseidon COLOR: ~1400€

For calulating the prices of the mono cameras, I combined the prices of the camera, a fitting filter wheel, a full set of filters (LRGB + SHO) and a autofocuser (I didn’t choose a particular focuser, I just estimated ~250€).
For calulating the prices of the color cameras, I just added the prices of the camera, a filter drawer and a light pollution filter, as I live in a small town (Bortle 4 sky) and have bright street lamps all around me.

I also looked at photos here on astrobin captured by the different cameras and I think that I like the pictures taken from the Poseidon a bit more. Maybe it’s the higher MP (Ares: 9 MP; Poseidon: 26 MP). I just think that the pictures taken with the poseidon look just a bit cleaner.

Furthermore I read that it is easier to frame the pictures with the ares because of the square sensor, which isn’t really a valid point for me, as I only have to frame it once in the beginning of the night and don’t have to reframe it if I’m shooting the same object the following night.

My question now is, which camera would you think is the best choice for me? Keep in mind, that I am still a student and am really uncomfortable to spend more than ~2000€ for my first dedicated astro-camera. That’s why I am currently unsure, if the Ares mono or Poseidon color would be the better choice. Or would the Poseidon mono be worth the 700€ more? Do you have any experience with any (or both) of the cameras mentioned above?
Or would you even recommend a completely different camera? I just looked into the Player One cameras as they have a very appealing design, take really nice pictures as I have heard in reviews and are praised by their amazing costumer support by a lot of people.

Thanks a lot in advance!
Lukas

Hi Lukas,

Sad to read the passing of the 40D but it had a long useful life.

As for OSC vs. Mono reams of virtual paper have been written about the cons and pros of either choice. I have both but I still prefer the OSC. In your calculations you should factor the cost of filters for both OSC and Mono and I'm not sure the numbers I read reflect that. And a filter drawer, too. And possibly go with a 2" for extended life if you decide for the smaller sensor but think one day to upgrade to a larger size. For the money any IMX571 OSC cannot be beaten.
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andrea tasselli avatar
When you have to crop you quickly lose resolution so framing is quite important


*How can you possibly loose resolution? Neither the focal length nor the sampling change and if you are smart in framing you wouldn't need to crop either.
JoepsAstronomy avatar

You have 3000×3000 Pixels = 9MP image.When you have to crop to 2500×2800 (because of stacking issues, guiding issues, etc) you suddenly remain with a 7 MP image.

Tony Gondola avatar

That’s not a change in resolution. The number of pixels doesn’t matter as long as focal length and pixel size doesn’t change as andrea pointed out. This is a common error when people talk about images in terms of megapixels.

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JoepsAstronomy avatar

I guess maybe in the astrophotography community there is a clear difference between the uses of the word resolution compared to other terms (are we talking about image scale?), which unfortunately wasn’t clarified by the posters who preferred to only point out there was a ‘mistake’.

If you have an image with less pixels horizontally and/or vertically, and you scale it up to full screen, I’d say that image also has less resolution than an image with more pixels where you can actually goto 200% to have a 1:1 view.

Point of the matter for the 533 sensor was that: If you have have to cut off part of the image for whatever reason, you quickly lose megapixels in the final image.

Jeff Marston avatar

I only image with a color camera. My imaging buddy often uses a monochrome camera and we like to discuss the pros and cons.

Color camera pros: Simplicity, brings out dust better, colors closer to reality, less expensive, better color than a mono camera for some targets, more simplicity during post processing

Mono camera pros: More flexible for bringing out colors in post processing, can get more data if used without filters, better than a color camera for some targets.

Color camera cons: Less flexible for colors in post processing, gathers less light compared to a mono camera without filters,

Mono camera cons: More expensive, more complicated setup, filter wheels are more moving parts that can cause headaches especially if you go to remote sites, more complicated post processing.

A lot of people will tell you that a mono camera is always better. My imaging buddy who has some apods on Astrobin and the NASA site believes that it often depends on the target. I only use color cameras because I prefer the simplicity it brings. My friend will switch back and forth between mono and color cameras, but it depends on the target, the scopes he is using, and how much effort he wants to put into post processing.

I forgot the mention that mono cameras are often better for light polluted areas.

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Dan H. M. avatar
I agree with Andrea.  The IMX571 sensor used in the Poseidon camera is top notch.  Given your sky conditions and that you're just coming from DSLR, I'd go with the Poseidon OSC camera.  And definitely get the Player One filter drawer.  If you truly do live in Bortle 4 skies you can get good images without a filter.  If streetlights are an issue I'd work on managing a good light shield system.
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Tony Gondola avatar

JoepsAstronomy · Sep 12, 2025, 05:00 AM

I guess maybe in the astrophotography community there is a clear difference between the uses of the word resolution compared to other terms (are we talking about image scale?), which unfortunately wasn’t clarified by the posters who preferred to only point out there was a ‘mistake’.

If you have an image with less pixels horizontally and/or vertically, and you scale it up to full screen, I’d say that image also has less resolution than an image with more pixels where you can actually goto 200% to have a 1:1 view.

Point of the matter for the 533 sensor was that: If you have have to cut off part of the image for whatever reason, you quickly lose megapixels in the final image.

You have clearly elucidated the point. Let me give you an example bases on terrestrial photography:

Take a picture using the full frame, let’s say it’s 10,000 × 10,000 pixels or 100 megapixels. Now imagine copping out the center 1000×1000 pixels. Your cropped image is 1 megapixel. If you compare the two images you’ll see that the actual resolution hase’t changed. The detail you can see in the 1 megapixel image is exactly the same as the 100 megapixel image. The only difference is that the smaller image covers a much narrower field of view. Now if you make an 8×10 print of each image then yes, the 100 MP image will “appear” to be much sharper overall but if you compare the small details in the 1 MP image to the 100 MP image, they will be the same. The reason the 100 MP looks “sharper” is because it is enlarged much less.

Hope that helps…

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Lukas Bauer avatar

Thank you for all the replies!

Based of the discussion about the cropping with the smaller sensor, I am pretty sure that the Poseidon would be the better choice for me.
My next question is if it is worth the extra 1300€ for the monochrome setup.

I get that the monochrome camera captures more details and probably would lead to nicer pictures. The extra processing time wouldn’t be that much of a problem for me.
But I also don’t know if it is a good idea to switch from a DSLR to a fully monochrome setup. At the other hand, I’m thinking that the monochrome setup would be more futureproof than a osc camera.
Do you think that the extra 1300€ is worth going monochrome (short term and long term)?


@andrea tasselli Thank you again for the 40D. I agree, it’s sad to see it passing, but it served me very well over the last two years. As far as I know and searched in the internet, the shutter motor is broken (Err. 99). I tried various different approaches to fix it. But I also noticed the last few nights when I took photos with it, that the image quality dropped significantly. By the way, you can see the best images I captured with the camera on my instagram account (lukasbauer_astrophotography).
Would be happy to see you over there 😀

Thanks!
Lukas

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Salvatore Iovene avatar

Lukas Bauer · Sep 12, 2025, 08:51 PM

By the way, you can see the best images I captured with the camera on my instagram account

ಠ_ಠ

edit: it's okay you can link your Instagram, I was just kidding. You know compression and well… Instagram!

masluigi avatar

The question is whether you care about photo quality and resolution, or whether a lower-quality result is enough.

If you're looking for beauty and resolution, you can only choose mono, especially in narrowband, where even with multiband filters it is significantly inferior.

andrea tasselli avatar
I shan't think so…
Adam Block avatar

Lukas Bauer · Sep 12, 2025, 08:51 PM

Thank you for all the replies!


I get that the monochrome camera captures more details and probably would lead to nicer pictures. The extra processing time wouldn’t be that much of a problem for me.


Thanks!
Lukas

From my experience the idea that monochrome data requires “extra processing” time is not accurate. The accommodations necessary to take care of debayering data has significant overhead in time and complexity. Everything from the way hot pixels are treated, interpolation methods, drizzling and more. In addition, one of the popular modes of OSC is to do narrowband imagery- especially with dual band filters. As I am sure has been covered extensively elsewhere, by double-filtering the light with “leaky” broadband color filter arrays- there is a greater challenge there as well. Finally, since there are some comets coming around again- I would add that to do certain kinds of processing are very hard (and most people would not care to go through the machinations).

Eventually once there are color calibrated stacked images- there really isn’t a difference from this point between OSC and an RGB combined image. It is just an RGB image at that point.

It is easier to acquire data with OSC… but not necessarily process it.

-adam

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James Peirce avatar

My 2¢

Mono camera’s aren’t specifically better than color cameras; they are different than color cameras for different types of imaging, and can be better for some types of imaging in exchange for certain aspects of greater complexity.

Managing the extra filters comes at a cost in money, mechanical complexity, and time. It makes it possible for more things to go wrong (e.g. a deviation in focus between two color filters introducing considerable post-processing complexity or a need to re-image a filter), or simple environmental limitations like high clouds moving in during one of the exposure rounds. More flats (which matters for something when imaging on the road, but is of little consequence when the setup isn’t dismantled). Potentially more focusing (even parfocal filters may warrant refocusing depending on how well any involved refractive optics or the general optical design corrects light across spectrum, which can be addressed with some technical options like filter offsets). When comparing color vs RGB the individual color channels are less well-sampled which can mean a need for more imaging time or more dithering to get equivalent outlier rejection). These things aren’t dramatic problems by any means, but they do account for some degree of consideration and learning curve.

I’d take broadband imaging with a color sensor over mono RGB quite happily in most cases. LRGB can allow a mono camera to get a leg up in exchange for some additional complexity (and luminosity adds considerable complexity to post-processing which becomes quite a bit less fussy with relevant experience).

Mono offers considerable upsides for false color palette narrowband imaging, however. Once there is a desire to separate the channels and balance them for false color palette imaging there are characteristics of color sensors (e.g. extended spectrum sensitivity allowing some Hα to be recorded in greens—prominently so, if the OIII signal is weak and the Hα is strong). SII cannot be recorded effectively alongside Hα on a color sensor. Mono lets you pick and choose between which channels are focused on more, which can matter if there’s a desire to focus on, say, faint OIII, and you can also enjoy some upside of focusing on OIII with little to no moonlight (it is affected more prominently than Hα and SII, although both of the later are still affected to a noteworthy extent).

Lovely narrowband images can still be produced with color sensors. There are scripts which can help to produce some interesting palettes with less work. But if it’s a major point of interest, I think the answer on this count is a solid win for mono. And this is a case where mono post-processing is easier if there’s a desire for some material control over the process.

Is post-processing mono data harder?

I see Adam’s take above. I’d say LRGB is distinctly harder to learn, and objectively involves more complexity (harder for mono). Color vs RGB is comparable in terms of editing time with experience, but mono can be a bit harder to learn in some ways (complexity that can be introduced if conditions vary across filters; post-processing advice which can cause headaches like applying background extraction to each individual color channel or balancing color channels with linear fit). On the other hand, a color sensor can add a little bit of extra challenge for color calibration (in Pix language, a good helping point is to dither and use a CFA drizzle—WBPP uses a CFA drizzle by default with color data—and then SPCC; helps in nuanced ways by bypassing some limitations of demosaicing and some interpolation). And I’d much rather edit mono narrowband data than color.

One nuanced aspect of ‘harder’ vs ‘easier’ on some of these topics is the difference between learning curve and experienced process. There are multiple points that can be harder to learn and prepare, but which may be much more comparable in terms of ease with experience.

Sometimes people argue about things like ‘mono has better detail’ or the like. These are minor considerations—pixel peeping details—at best, and not so relevant given reduction in resolution for sharing or post-processing tools, and they are broadly mitigated by dithering and using a CFA drizzle (don’t need to upscale to enjoy the benefits). Broadband color isn’t ‘better’ in mono than color. It can be different in some subtle ways (e.g. OIII tends to be accented a small amount more than Hα in broadband color than in mono due to sensitivity and allocation of pixels by the color filter array). In my opinion, these arguments are a pretty good example of not seeing the forest for the trees. Other considerations are more substantive.

So anyway...

I’d argue what is right depends on the photographer and what they want to image. If someone values mechanical simplicity and prefers broadband imaging, I think color sensors are a clear win. If someone loves narrowband imaging, I think mono is a clear win. And you can also mix-and-match the worlds (e.g. collect color with a color sensor and luminance with a mono sensor).

I’d also argue that a color sensor would generally be the way to go starting out unless someone specifically knows what relevant-for-their-imaging upsides they want to enjoy from a mono sensor. And it’s not the end of the world to get a second or different camera down the road unless on a rough budget, in which case we’re back to color sensors now affording a considerable cost upside.

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bigCatAstro avatar

James Peirce · Sep 14, 2025 at 05:14 PM

My 2¢

Mono camera’s aren’t specifically better than color cameras; they are different than color cameras for different types of imaging, and can be better for some types of imaging in exchange for certain aspects of greater complexity.

Managing the extra filters comes at a cost in money, mechanical complexity, and time. It makes it possible for more things to go wrong (e.g. a deviation in focus between two color filters introducing considerable post-processing complexity or a need to re-image a filter), or simple environmental limitations like high clouds moving in during one of the exposure rounds. More flats (which matters for something when imaging on the road, but is of little consequence when the setup isn’t dismantled). Potentially more focusing (even parfocal filters may warrant refocusing depending on how well any involved refractive optics or the general optical design corrects light across spectrum, which can be addressed with some technical options like filter offsets). When comparing color vs RGB the individual color channels are less well-sampled which can mean a need for more imaging time or more dithering to get equivalent outlier rejection). These things aren’t dramatic problems by any means, but they do account for some degree of consideration and learning curve.

I’d take broadband imaging with a color sensor over mono RGB quite happily in most cases. LRGB can allow a mono camera to get a leg up in exchange for some additional complexity (and luminosity adds considerable complexity to post-processing which becomes quite a bit less fussy with relevant experience).

Mono offers considerable upsides for false color palette narrowband imaging, however. Once there is a desire to separate the channels and balance them for false color palette imaging there are characteristics of color sensors (e.g. extended spectrum sensitivity allowing some Hα to be recorded in greens—prominently so, if the OIII signal is weak and the Hα is strong). SII cannot be recorded effectively alongside Hα on a color sensor. Mono lets you pick and choose between which channels are focused on more, which can matter if there’s a desire to focus on, say, faint OIII, and you can also enjoy some upside of focusing on OIII with little to no moonlight (it is affected more prominently than Hα and SII, although both of the later are still affected to a noteworthy extent).

Lovely narrowband images can still be produced with color sensors. There are scripts which can help to produce some interesting palettes with less work. But if it’s a major point of interest, I think the answer on this count is a solid win for mono. And this is a case where mono post-processing is easier if there’s a desire for some material control over the process.

Is post-processing mono data harder?

I see Adam’s take above. I’d say LRGB is distinctly harder to learn, and objectively involves more complexity (harder for mono). Color vs RGB is comparable in terms of editing time with experience, but mono can be a bit harder to learn in some ways (complexity that can be introduced if conditions vary across filters; post-processing advice which can cause headaches like applying background extraction to each individual color channel or balancing color channels with linear fit). On the other hand, a color sensor can add a little bit of extra challenge for color calibration (in Pix language, a good helping point is to dither and use a CFA drizzle—WBPP uses a CFA drizzle by default with color data—and then SPCC; helps in nuanced ways by bypassing some limitations of demosaicing and some interpolation). And I’d much rather edit mono narrowband data than color.

One nuanced aspect of ‘harder’ vs ‘easier’ on some of these topics is the difference between learning curve and experienced process. There are multiple points that can be harder to learn and prepare, but which may be much more comparable in terms of ease with experience.

Sometimes people argue about things like ‘mono has better detail’ or the like. These are minor considerations—pixel peeping details—at best, and not so relevant given reduction in resolution for sharing or post-processing tools, and they are broadly mitigated by dithering and using a CFA drizzle (don’t need to upscale to enjoy the benefits). Broadband color isn’t ‘better’ in mono than color. It can be different in some subtle ways (e.g. OIII tends to be accented a small amount more than Hα in broadband color than in mono due to sensitivity and allocation of pixels by the color filter array). In my opinion, these arguments are a pretty good example of not seeing the forest for the trees. Other considerations are more substantive.

So anyway...

I’d argue what is right depends on the photographer and what they want to image. If someone values mechanical simplicity and prefers broadband imaging, I think color sensors are a clear win. If someone loves narrowband imaging, I think mono is a clear win. And you can also mix-and-match the worlds (e.g. collect color with a color sensor and luminance with a mono sensor).

I’d also argue that a color sensor would generally be the way to go starting out unless someone specifically knows what relevant-for-their-imaging upsides they want to enjoy from a mono sensor. And it’s not the end of the world to get a second or different camera down the road unless on a rough budget, in which case we’re back to color sensors now affording a considerable cost upside.

I fall into the mix-and-match camp: an OSC narrowband imager in an urban environment.

The equipment cost-to-personal time to dedicate to photography has been the highest contributing factor in not pursuing a mono set-up. Since my time to pursue astrophotography is limited, I’ve opted to stay with OSC.

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Martin Junius avatar

You may want to have a look at the comparison I did here:

https://app.astrobin.com/i/a0vvoj

In a nutshell, for RGB imaging the difference is mostly negligible.

A mono cam can go deeper with an L filter, gathering more light, and of course do deep NB imaging with SII/Ha/OIII.

For the later, dual/tri/quadband filters offer a viable alternative for OSCs, though.

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James Peirce avatar

bigCatAstro · Sep 14, 2025 at 05:41 PM

I fall into the mix-and-match camp: an OSC narrowband imager in an urban environment.

The equipment cost-to-personal time to dedicate to photography has been the highest contributing factor in not pursuing a mono set-up. Since my time to pursue astrophotography is limited, I’ve opted to stay with OSC.

I do as well. Generally I prefer to use OSC for my broadband imaging—at least most of it—and mono for my narrowband imaging or when I want luminance. I have one color camera set up and one mono camera set up, and sometimes I image with two rigs, so in that case sometimes I’ll shoot RGB along with luminance as well.

But I can honesty say I find OSC is more enjoyable and less fussy or time consuming to use, for me, for broadband. Part of that owes to some challenges of imaging on the road.

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Natalie Sigalovsky avatar

I use a color camera ZWO 6200 MC with my RASA for simplicity, and mono cameras for all my other setups. Just to remind some folks who may not be aware of the technical side: a Bayer matrix…

  • Sensitivity Loss

    • A mono pixel collects all incoming light.

    • A color pixel only collects ¼ to ½ of it (since filters block other wavelengths).

  • Resolution Loss

    • Mono images have full resolution per pixel.

    • OSC cameras lose some sharpness due to demosaicing.

  • Color Calibration

    • Stars’ natural colors are captured directly in OSC cameras via Bayer filters.

    • Mono cameras need separate R, G, B exposures with filters to reconstruct color.

  • Best Use Cases

    • Mono Camera

      • Advanced astrophotographers seeking maximum detail.

      • Narrowband imaging (great for emission nebulae, even under heavy light pollution).

      • Scientific imaging (photometry, spectroscopy).

      • More expensive overall (camera + filter wheel + filters).

    • Color Camera (OSC)

      • Beginners or those who want simpler workflows.

      • Widefield imaging of star clusters, galaxies, and bright nebulae.

    • Travel rigs where portability matters.

    • Lower cost (just the camera, optional broadband filter).

    • Good “all-in-one” option if budget or complexity is a concern.

Of course, this is all a personal choice, depending on cost, simplicity, and other factors.

CS

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James Peirce avatar

Natalie Sigalovsky · Sep 14, 2025 at 11:03 PM

I use a color camera ZWO 6200 MC with my RASA for simplicity, and mono cameras for all my other setups. Just to remind some folks who may not be aware of the technical side: a Bayer matrix…

  • Sensitivity Loss

    • A mono pixel collects all incoming light.

    • A color pixel only collects ¼ to ½ of it (since filters block other wavelengths).

An important clarification ought to be pointed out here.

On a color sensor each pixel, due to the color filter array, is allocated to record some range of reds, greens, or blues (typically and with a range which extends beyond what that label strictly implies—“green” pixels share overlapping sensitivity transitioning toward and into both blues and reds). In a simplified sense, it is as if each pixel has one of a red, green, or blue filter. (Color sensors are essentially mono sensors, color-filtered by the color filter array.)

Three hours spent imaging with a color sensor is allocated to each of these filtered color-ranges by way of the color filter array. For a common RGGB Bayer CFA, that means, in this simplified example, the equivalent of 45 mins reds, 90 mins greens, and 45 mins blues exposed relative to surface area (as pixels) on the sensor. If you image with RGB filters in mono that means 60 mins red, 60 mins green, 60 mins blue. We get reasonably comparable signal across filters in either case because while one filter is being recorded in mono the others are not, and in a side-by-side comparison, the color sensor continues imaging all filters, with corresponding fractions of the sensor, contiguously.

Or to put it differently, in both cases each pixel of each sensor spends the duration of time recording some representation of either reds, greens, or blues.

You do get relatively deeper exposure the green range on the color sensor, but given color calibration this does not have a materially negative impact on the depth of the resulting exposure. And color sensors tend to also make up a bit for this with the extended sensitivity across filters (which can also be a drawback when recording narrowband). And you also have a better-sampled dataset with the color sensor in this comparison (e.g. for rejection purposes) because you are dealing with a 3-hour dataset of exposures vs 3 separate filters. Not too big a deal once the mono filters are well-sampled and well-dithered, but it can matter when trying to make an image with a relatively limited session.

There is no significant sensitivity loss with a color sensor, and even some upsides.

The very small difference in potential resolution can also be considerably mitigated by dithering and using a CFA drizzle when stacking, and wouldn’t have been so apparent anyway given some amount of downsampling for sharing. It becomes a sort of astrophotography pixel-peeping.

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Tony Gondola avatar

…but, because there’s so much overlap between filters in the matrix the purity of any single color is compromised. Mono RGB filters hardly have any overlap at all. Your red frame is just the red with a bandwidth of around 100nm. In practice this means the colors are a lot cleaner and easier to work with. Mono also helps narrowband a lot and for the same reason. With a dual band filter on OSC, the data is always contaminated to certain degree. You can still work with it but you don’t have the same degree of control that you get with mono, not to mention the sensitivity.

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Read noise Astrophotography avatar

Mono = More detail, efficiency with narrowband (essential for emission nebulae in light-polluted areas), but requires filter wheel + filters + extra complexity.

OSC (One-Shot Color) Cheaper, simpler, faster workflow, less gear. You’ll lose some fine detail and narrowband flexibility, but you’ll get results faster.

Player One options

Ares (IMX533, 9MP, square sensor)

Mono: €1500 (with filters, wheel, focuser ~€2000+)

Color: €900 (just camera + filter drawer).

Pros: clean sensor, zero amp glow, square format is nice for framing.

Cons: lower resolution than Poseidon.

Poseidon (IMX571, 26MP, APS-C)

Mono: ~€2750 (with filters, wheel, focuser → €3500+).

Color: €1400 (camera + filter drawer).

Pros: higher res, bigger FOV, cleaner images.

Cons: significantly more cost for mono setup

Reality check with your budget (~2000€ max)

Poseidon Mono not realistic (setup >€3500).

Ares Mono technically possible, but you’ll blow your full budget and still need filters.

Poseidon OSC Best value. €1400 leaves room for filters/drawer, still under budget.

Ares OSC Cheapest entry, but less resolution and smaller FOV. Good starter if budget is very tight.

Recommendation

Since you’re a student, want clean results, and don’t want to sink €3k:

Poseidon OSC is the sweet spot.

Higher resolution, modern sensor.

Lower complexity than mono.

Still affordable (<€2000 all-in).

You can always sell and upgrade to mono later once you’ve gained more experience + budget.

Helpful
andrea tasselli avatar
Same focal length, same pixel size, SAME RESOLUTION!