I’m seriously considering upgrading from a Quattro 200CF to the Quattro 300P and would love to hear peoples’ opinions on the scope.
I plan to get a CEM70 to run it.
My image train is the ZWO ASI2600MM, ZWO 7×36 EFW, ZWO OAG-L, ZWO EAF.
I already own both the Quattro Coma Corrector and the Nexus 0.75 reducer/corrector.
It sounds like I should have no problem using CEM70 with this scope based on what I’ve heard from other folks online, but would love to know what people who own the scope think. I’m able to run my Quattro 200CF on a CEM26 with 0.5-1.0 guiding.
Looking for gotchas, tips and tricks, what to expect, what I’ll probably have to replace, etc.
I’ve got a line on a used one with a moonlight focuser and possibly a betty’s secondary for around the same price as a new stock one, which seems like it could be a no-brainer assuming it all works great, but I’m not sure if it’ll have issues at all. Is the stock focuser junk or will it work just fine? I’d have to give up on using the ASIAIR if I go with this used one and learn N.I.N.A, however that’s not necessarily a bad thing, just more new stuff to figure out.
Anyways, would love people’s feedback!
Thanks :)
- Ivan
Upgrading from Quattro 200CF to 300P: seeking owner experiences and advice
A few things come to mind . . .
1) The CEM 70 can probably handle it but I wouldn’t say with “no problem”. Even if the weight isn’t an issue, the sheer size of the 300 surely will be. A 300 is very large and will catch wind like a kite. You’ll likely be restricted to very calm nights.
2) I highly recommend you visit a Telescope shop somewhere that has a 12 inch/300 on display even if it’s not SkyWatcher. I bought the 250 and was surprised by how much bigger and heavier it was than the 200. And I’m assuming CF stands for carbon fiber, which means they may even be a greater weight differential as you’re moving to a steel OTA. But I wouldn’t buy one without seeing something similar in-person
3) if you’re setting this up as a permanent rig on a pier, it should be OK. However, if you plan on taking it in and out often, I’m sure you’ll regret going with the 300. In fact, I’m positive.
Why would you need to give up the ASIair if you buy a used scope? Are you thinking you’ll be stuck using the Moonlite auto focuser? If so, do some research. Almost all the Moonlite focusers can be retrofitted with a non-Moonlite auto-focuser motor like the EAF. I use a Gemini auto-focuser on my Newtonian Moonlite CR with no issue.
That said, I always recommend NINA over ASIair unless you’re a rank amateur.
By the way, how do you like your CEM70? Have you had it long?
I haven’t got the CEM70 yet, I’m buying a used one with an iOptron Tri-Pier soon. I’ve seen people say they can run a Quattro 300 on the CQ350 which is similar capacity.
I plan to keep my scope on my back deck year-round and just cover it with a TG365 cover. This is what I currently do with my Quattro200CF on the CEM26 and I’ve never noticed any issues with wind, the only messed subs are when I walk on the deck while it’s shooting. Perhaps a bigger scope would reveal just how much wind there actually is.
I was thinking of heading into the local store to see if they have any 12” Newts, I imagine I’m going to be quite surprised at how much bigger it will be, so thanks for the suggestion on that.
I didn’t realize you could just take the stepper motor out of the moonlight focuser and put a different one in, I’ve never owned one and haven’t researched it much, I was just thinking I really don’t want to have to take the entire focuser unit out if I wanted to stick with an ASIAIR for now. I figured using their stepper motor was half the reason people bought the focuser so I never though of not using it. It would be a good excuse to switch over and learn NINA, it’s just more work, parts, learning curve, delay in using the new setup when I can currently hit a few buttons quickly in ASIAIR and have it going for the night.
Any issues with collimation or dew or various other parts?
I have the Quattro 300p and absolutely love it. I have it on the CQ350 mount, and it handles the weight no problem.
The people who have mentioned wind are totally right. I can see the wind interfering with the tracking; luckily, my backyard is sheltered from the wind.
The length of the scope itself required me to get the Pier extension for the tripod to stop the tube assembly from hitting the tripod legs near zenith.
Collimation can be an issue for some people, and this scope does need good collimation to get the best results.
I did find the stock standard focuser to be a little lacking. I removed the focus tube and painted it black. When I put it back together, it seemed a little better.
It is a very heavy tube assembly, and you may need a hand getting it on and off the mount, especially if you're setting up in the dark.
My set-up is not permanent, but I also don’t pull the scope and mount apart at the end of each observing session. My storage shed and the observing slab are one continuous slab of concrete. I have the tripod on heavy-duty 3-wheel dollies’s. I roll the scope in and out as required. It would be a huge pain if I had to set it up from scratch each time.
The quality of images is much better out of the 12”.
Yes, there is a small Mom and Pop company that makes adapters for several Moonlite models to the EAF. Sorry I can’t remember their name.
There are also several decent 3D print designs on Thingiverse and Printables.com.
In my case, I had an extra 8” OTA ring lying around. So I placed it on the front of the OTA above but close to the focuser. Then I used two EAF brackets to Gerry-Rig the connection (pardon, the expression). It works perfect, very solid. And the extra OTA ring helps to stave off focuser lag and keeps the OTA shape true and stable.
If I remember tomorrow, I’ll take a picture and post it here.
EDIT: this is the mom and pop I mentioned . . . https://mwdastronomy.com/wp/product/zwo-eaf-to-moonlite-mounting-brackets/
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https://www.primalucelab.com/sesto-senso/sesto-senso-robotic-focusing-motor.html
Yes, that would likely work well. And it’s a much better AF. But beware, it weighs as much as a small Buick.
Haha thanks for the links to the alternatives and what a cool rig job for your focuser :)
I had to do something a little wonky for my current setup as well.
I plan on getting the riser extension for the iOptron tri-pier and putting it at a higher height, although I imagine getting it on there is going to be quite the job.
So it sounds like there are lots of options for that moonlite focuser beyond it’s own stepper motor if I wanted, and I’m sure it’s going to be a much better focuser than stock.
What are people using for their flats? I have a cheap amazon light panel right now, but I’d have to get a way bigger one for the Quattro 300, or get something more professional.
I use a cheap light panel as well. So long as it’s not super blue or super yellow, and you can’t see the light strips running inside the panel (you want the light evenly distributed), you should be fine.
I have recently switched the stock focuser to a Baader Diamond Steeltrack with a Baader Clicklock addon and I love it. The drawtube of the Baader is shorter than the stock one and it is also handling my imaging train without flexing like the stock one.
For flats I always follow the advice that Andrea gives: sky flats. They are free and they work the best if you can take them out of daylight (go for early morning or late evening). On cloudy days however I use 2 white opaque acrylic plates that cover the whole tube on the front pointed to zenith. This gives a very diffuse light that works extremely well in flat correction.
A white pillow case held on with a large band I got from a hardware store, and point the scope at the sjy after sunrise. I point it away from the sun. seems to work perfectly.
Hi Ivan,
that was honestly one of the best telescopes from SkyWatcher I ever had - next to the 150 Quattro. It’s a big scope, but still very manageable! I used the 300 on an EQ8-R Pro and never had any issues with it.
Just keep in mind, if you want to get the best out of it you should “tune” it a bit: add a baffle to the primary, upgrade the focuser, and line the inside of the tube with velour.
CS,
Nedim
I love Newtonian and have a 150, 200, 250 and 300. I use them with the Starizona and aplanactic flatteners. All of mine are steel tube. I use them with ed50 /585 guide scopes and 571 mono and OSC cameras on a pair of modified Eq6 mounts in an observatory.
Some observations…
… the stock focusers are very poor and I have most of the fleet running Baader steeltrak focusers with zwo eaf… performance has been excellent.
… I have just tried a Chinese made focuser reviewed by Ciuv with a Touptek eaf and find the performance comparable at about half the price.
…The performance of each of the scopes dramatically improved with mirror masks, flocking, blackboard paint on side of mirrors, improved springs, replacement mirror clamps and for the 150 and 200 scopes new spiders.
…Losmandy plates top and bottom of each tube to help stiffen the tube and provide mounting points for guide scope, Mele pc running Nina and a Gemini light panel.
…While I use oag on my SCT scopes and initially tried this with the newtonian I like the results I get with the ED50.
…. Both the 250 and 300 mm scopes are heavy and hard to physically handle without help. I am tall and strong yet remain concerned every time I mount one of these beasts.
…. My 300 is under mounted but in a sheltered observatory environment shooting 180 second or less subs the results are good and with a little Bx longer subs are tolerable.
….. because of the physical issues my 250 and 300 are getting used less while the refinements to the smaller newtonians are making them much more satisfying to use.
These mid priced Newtonians are never going to be Rolls Royces of the telescope world but with some modifications and the inherent quality of modern mirrors I suspect they are much better than our urban skies.
Many of the enhancements to the newtonians involve 3d printed parts and unfortunately the bed size of most domestic printers is limited to the parts in the 200mm and smaller scopes which may be an issue for some.
Hope the comments help the thought process.
… I have just tried a Chinese made focuser reviewed by Ciuv with a Touptek eaf and find the performance comparable at about half the price.
…The performance of each of the scopes dramatically improved with mirror masks, flocking, blackboard paint on side of mirrors, improved springs, replacement mirror clamps and for the 150 and 200 scopes new spiders.
Thanks for all the notes and helpful advice :)
Are you able to link me to that video for that focuser?
Do you have some sources for how to do these mods and where to get the parts? I’m kind of afraid to take apart the thing and then paint the inside, but I’m sure it’s easier than it seems. I’d at the least like to do the mirror mask that a few people have mentioned.
I’ve got a Bambu A1, so not sure if that’s too small for the parts you suggest for the 300. I’ve also been thinking I’m getting dew problems on my Quattro 200 now (images just seem fainter as the night goes on), so I’ll have to look into a 2ndary heater.
Ivan
YouTube is your friend when it comes to Newtonian mods, as is Thingiverse. Just search and you will find lots of ideas.
I assume you have your collimation technique nailed. You will need to have it nailed if you decide to have a go. There really is nothing too scary, and most of the jobs require little more than the most basic tools and materials.
I buy my flocking material from First Light Optics in the UK, quick-dry blackboard paint from Rustins and bolts etc from Amazon.
When you 3d print fittings avoid PLA it is not strong or stable enough. I prefer carbon-reinforced PETG.
My priorities would be focuser, mirror mask, flocking (at least behind the secondary) and a black cover for the bottom of the primary to prevent light leaks.
an example of Thingiverse.. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6568709
a good video…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7vb_f5n6VI&ab_channel=Robservatory
Hope this helps.
Ross
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I use a CG350 with pier extension. Works great! No issues with focusing using EAF and stock focuser. Not sure what the fuss is about. I use with nexus and it’s fine.
I added a losmandy plate on top with a clamp on ADM handle. It really helps lifting and carrying.
Good luck!
Doug
TS 10” F/4 Newt steel tube on CEM 70ECW here.
Precise 4D balancing is a prerequisite.
If you can erect a wind catcher around your setup - do it. Otherwise, as many already mentioned, a slightest wind gust renders a sub unusable.
Occasionally I will drop in a 12” F/5 Truss Dob converted to GEM but only for lunar/planetary. For DSO its just too much to ask. CEM120 / EQ8 would be my minimum if I was to run 12” permanently.
James Finch (Doug) · Sep 14, 2025, 01:52 AM
I use a CG350 with pier extension. Works great! No issues with focusing using EAF and stock focuser. Not sure what the fuss is about. I use with nexus and it’s fine.
I added a losmandy plate on top with a clamp on ADM handle. It really helps lifting and carrying.
Hey Doug,
you have a beautiful looking setup! Good idea about the handle on the top, I will look into that.
I’m wondering if you are having an easier time with the stock focuser as you don’t appear to have a big filter wheel and OAG making thing more awkwardly weighted.
If you can erect a wind catcher around your setup - do it. Otherwise, as many already mentioned, a slightest wind gust renders a sub unusable.
Thanks, I may look into that. I just added a weather station on my deck right in front of my current setup at the same height where the wind can come from and it looks like it’s mostly 0-2km/h for the here and there wind, and most gusts I see are 3-9km/hr. It appears like there is almost nothing recorded for overnight, so I guess that’s a great sign! Winter will be windier though so I guess I’ll see how that goes.
I tend to take 90s or less exposures so they are less disrupted, if it tends to get windier or acts like a sail I may have to keep that up.
Thanks. It’s been fun. You may be correct regarding filter wheel. I did add a brass ring clamp on the focuser, and Starizona EAF bracket. Otherwise it’s “stock.”
I also use a 2600 air with nexus and CAA. No issues.
Regarding scope, I changed out the secondary screws for bobs knobs, and cobbled up a dew shade. I have a detachable fan for the primary.
I’ll probably change out the springs in the primary cell for something stiffer at some point.
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