AstroDarks avatar
Looking  for recommendations on EAF settings for my Edge HD 8" with ASI Air. The autofocus curve I see is pretty shallow. I am currently using an AF step size  of 50. ( Backlash 0, min size 10, max size 100 of that matters)

The images turn out soft. See below. This is M27 at 2000mm FL F10. 

Also my guiding is great. Mostly below 0.4 arc sec. Yet, I see the stars very slightly elongated. I ran this image through ASTAP and I saw no tilt (5%). Is this bad collimation? The scope for stored for 2-3 months and I did not collimate before imaging last night. It was in perfect collimation at the time of storage.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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Rémi avatar
Hi, it look like a range out/in off your Backfocus...do you use reducer ?


Amit avatar
Looking  for recommendations on EAF settings for my Edge HD 8" with ASI Air. The autofocus curve I see is pretty shallow. I am currently using an AF step size  of 50. ( Backlash 0, min size 10, max size 100 of that matters)



I recently switched my EAF from my refractor to EdgeHD8. I still have the same setting that I used with my refractor. my step size (slow) is 10. 50 seems little large movement for me. I didn.t change my backlash (its still at 90) . Maybe reduce the AF step size to 5 or 10 and start what a backlash of 50 to see if you get tighter stars.
DARRELL DUBOSE avatar
Can’t help with your ASI settings as I don’t have one. I suggest before you start fiddling with back focus and ASI settings, you get a tri-bahtinov mask and check your focus and collimation after you run the autofocus routine.  If your collimation and center focus is good, then start looking for other issues.
Darrell
Tony Gondola avatar
Much the same as Darrell suggested. Find out first what the best focus is in terms of FWHM or whatever measurement your system uses. Then run your autofocus and see if it matches it but in terms of star size and visual appearance. The only difference is I wouldn't bother with a mask, the human eye is very sensitive to small changes like this. Zoom way into a not super bright star and at high screen magnification. Also, don't forget that every optical system is going the have a zone of critical focus where tiny changes won't have any effect. That's the great thing and auto-focusing as why it works so well. Even though you might make 2 or 3 samples in that zone, it's the overall curve that pinpoints the best point right in the middle of the CFZ. Another indication that you're close is the number of detected stars in your image. When you are slightly off the very faintest stars will pretty much disappear so that can also be a good check. Seeing star images that are not round has nothing to do with focus.
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Terry Doran avatar
SCTs need much larger auto focus step sizes.  I have mine set at 90 for my EdgeHD8.  When you have a shallow focus curve you want to increase step size not decrease it.  To be clear, this is the step size in the auto focus settings and has nothing to do with the fine and course settings.  Those are for manual focusing and have nothing to do with auto focus.  It’s not unheard of to see people using step sizes of 100 or more with SCT scopes.
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AstroDarks avatar

I have now set up the autofocus step size to be 100 and backlash of 50

I see the attached curve with final star size of "5.9" at focus. What numbers does everyone see here when you focus? Even when using slow movements of 10, I see the focuser move. So backlash is ideally 0 but I set it to 50. I have also made sure that the focuser final movement in in counter clockwise direction when dialing focus. 📷 1000215585.jpg1000215585.jpg

PS: This screenshot shows focusing at F10 (no reducer).📷 1000215607.jpg1000215607.jpg

AstroDarks avatar

Here is how the actual focusing curve is looking like 📷 focus.jpg

The backlash setting is meant for manual focus and not autofocus, correct?

focus.jpg