If the IFN is slightly bluish and you are trying to capture that color, then using an "L" filter or "C" for luminance will wash out the color and steer it towards gray - and it will be particularly bad if there is any IR contributed when using a C filter.
If you are just doing many, many hours of RGB then the average color of a blue object might be (0, 0, 95) after one hour, then (0, 0, 103) after two hours - and over time the average would settle down to the true average value of (0, 0, 100). That is the long term average you are aiming for - and it is a pure, deep blue.
But since blue contributes so little to the perceived luminance, it registers as a very dark color to the eye. But that's fine because that's what it is.
The perceived luminance for a given rgb triplet is approximately L = 0.21R + 0.71G + 0.072B, so green constitutes 70% of perceived luminance, while blue is only 7% and ten times weaker than green.
So the perceived luminance of (0, 0, 100) would be only about 7, while the T signal (from an "L" filter) would be 0 + 0 + 100 = 100.
If you then use photoshop or PI and say, "I want the color here to come from (0, 0, 100) but replace the luminance with 100 instead of 7" - the only way it can try to keep the same hue but boost the perceived luminance is to boost the values in R and G - making it brighter, but also desaturating it and making it gray.
You can get a feel for how this works with tools such as
https://colordesigner.io/convert/labtorgbIf you enter an RGB value of 0, 0, 100 you will see it is a deep blue and you can calculate the Lab values for it. If you then take those Lab values and convert back to RGB you will get 0, 0, 100 as expected. But if you increase the L value a bit you will see the R and G values rising to meet the demand - and also see the color being washed out.
This is something I noticed many years ago when I first was trying LRGB, and since I was trying for good color and good detail - the loss of color was frustrating. I wish I had known then what I know now - that the whole idea is fundamentally flawed since the T signal does not work well as a proxy for luminance.
Using a V filter as a proxy for luminance should be ok, and the fact that it only captures blue very weakly is a good thing - because the luminance of a deep blue object really is small. But it won't gain you anything by doing VRGB compared to just full time on RGB.
LRGB makes some sense if you are mainly after detail and don't care much about color - particularly blue. But otherwise if you are after faint blue parts of a galaxy or wisps of nebulosity - pure RGB would be preferable.
Frank