Building My First Galaxy-Hunting Rig – Need Advice!

K RTony GondolaStephan TrzeciakDunk
24 replies731 views
K R avatar
Dear Astro Experts,

I'm new to astrophotography and could use some guidance. A fellow member recommended that I post my questions here.

I'm considering purchasing the Askar 120APO telescope paired with the ZWO AM5 mount. My goal is to build a rig that’s both user-friendly and powerful, with a primary focus on imaging galaxies (and less so on nebulas). Eventually, I’d like to make the setup remotely operable and potentially ship it to StarFront for remote use.
 

Here’s the setup I’m currently considering:
 
    [*]
    Telescope: Askar 120APO
    [*]
    Mount: ZWO AM5
    [*]
    Camera: ZWO ASI2600MC Air Pro (wireless version with built-in guiding support)
    [*]
    Tripod: ZWO TC40
    [*]
    Guide Scope: Not sure which one?



Do you see any issues with this setup? Is there anything important I’m missing?
 

Thank you in advance for your help!
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Stephan Trzeciak avatar
Hi K R,

this is (almost) the rig I run at Starfront, with the difference that I run the Mono camera with filter wheel, and I use a mini PC running NINA.
It is a great and very stable set-up! Hardly any maintenance needed! Perfect for galaxies, if you do not want to go for a big reflector (which is more hassle, especially using it remotely).

If you are new to the hobby, I think using the color camera with the ZWO is a good choice, but..., you will grow out of the ASIAIR set-up quite quickly, I think :-)?

Anyhow, some advice...
  • You need  a decent guide scope. I use the Svbony 106, 60/240mm as Guide Scope, and it works like a charm!
  • If you really stay with the color camera, I would take the Duo (I am not up to date if you get this in combo with the Air, though), and run that as your guiding set-up.
    I use the Duo at home, and with the color version it usually works better than a separate guiding scope (with Mono, I am not that enthusiastic, as I have encountered issues with finding a star, when using narrow band filters, especially when imaging galaxies, where you usually have less stars in the field of view).
  • Make sure that you calculate the back focus right and get the right extensions (if you use the 2600 camera, the right extensions are delivered with the camera)
  • You need a guide camera if you go for the guide scope. I use the ZWO ASI664MC as Guide Camera, with UV & IR Cut Filter. It works great!
  • Don't use the 0.7 reducer for the APO120. Buy the 1x flattener instead. It gives an excellent image.
  • You need the EAF.
  • I would go for a flat box. I bought a DeepSkyDad FLAP150 flat box, with heater.
  • You will need dew strips for the APO and guide scope. Dew is a challenge in Texas, I learnt the hard way. But now, I do have any issues anymore.
  • Think about how you are going to power your rig, and how you plan to do power cycles, if you have to re-set things...
  • You should get a Kasa Smart Power Strip, KP303, and an APC UPS Battery Backup and Surge Protector, BE650G1; or similar
  • You do not need the tripod. At StarFront they put the mount on a pier (which is MUCH better than the tripod).

That is all that comes to mind. Go for it! It soooo fun!

/ ST
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Dunk avatar
K R:
Camera: ZWO ASI2600MC Air Pro (wireless version with built-in guiding support)


Why do you still need a guide-scope?
Stephan Trzeciak avatar
As stated, you won't, if you go for that camera (and it includes the guiding chip, which it does).
Mark Savan avatar
I would suggest that you think about a scope with more focal length than the 120 APO.  With your stated goal of galaxy hunting I think that you will find that a longer focal length scope will open up a lot more possibilities regarding targets.  If you do go with the 120 APO I would suggest that you not add a reducer and stay with the native fl.  Once you get past the handful of larger galaxies you will want a smaller field of view

I also agree with earlier comments about growing out of the ASIAir.  It's a great device that I use for my in-person imaging sessions, but I've found that NINA gives me much more control and flexibility for a remote setup.
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Beat Wirthmueller avatar
Hi - I'm not an expert at all but I use the ASKAR 103 APO, the ZWO ASI 2600 MC duo, the ZWO AM5 mostly for nebulae and some of the larger galaxies.  Everything runs on the ASI AIR Pro and this setting works perfect for me.

To get good pictures from all the beautiful but also smaller galaxies you will need a focal length of at least 1000mm. That is why I purchased a second hand Celestron EdgeHD 8¨with a native focal length of 2032mm on f/10. I'm now use it with the 0.7 reducer which gives me a focal length of around 1400mm and a focal ratio of f/7.0.

I have no experience with a remote setting but I have to admit that it took some time of trial and error until I was satisfied with the results of this scope. So it was much easier to do the necessary  troubleshooting in my backyard. Looking back I think I should have gone for the larger 9.25" version of the this scope but I was not sure if the ZWO AM5 could handle the weight of the bigger scope.

Clear skies - Beat
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Tony Gondola avatar
If Galaxies are your thing 840mm is just too short. It will be ok for some of the larger showpieces but beyond that, most galaxies are tiny. You need aperture and focal length. For less than what the 120mm APO costs you could pick up a 8" classical Cassegrain (2400mm) or an 8" RC (1600mm). These would be far better choices for what you want to do.
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Amit avatar
K R:
I'm considering purchasing the Askar 120APO telescope paired with the ZWO AM5 mount. My goal is to build a rig that’s both user-friendly and powerful, with a primary focus on imaging galaxies (and less so on nebulas).



If the focus is on galaxies, then only feedback is to consider for a larger scope. I am an amature galaxy hunter myself and recently moved to edgeHD8 and shoot it with my existing 533mc pro. with the FL (~1420mm with 0.7 reducer) and the 1in sensor, I get a good field of view to go after galaxies. reflectors maybe tricky to operate at a remote site but if the initial setup is done right, the collimation should hold few months.  For refractors check out the Explorer scientific ED152 carbon fiber scope with FCD1 glass. they are running offer so the pricing is great for the scope and the weight won't be any issue for the AM5.
good luck and clear skies
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andrea tasselli avatar
RC 8" or even better a 10" RC. That's the ticket. Avoid ZWO.
Michael Cory avatar
Hi KR,
 I have the Askar 120 APO|AM5|TC-40 and I love it!

[REVISED]
    1. You will need the pier extension - else the telescope will hit the tripod legs.
    2. I put a pair of 10 pound weights in the tripod bag.
    2. Dew heaters are a must - else your lens will fog up.
    

 At 840mm you may run out of galaxies large enough to sufficiently fill the frame though.
 For several closer galaxies like M101 and M51 the Askar 120 is great.
 There are online tools that let you enter your telescope, any reducer and camera specs, pick a target, like M104 (Sombrero galaxy), and it will show you the field of view you get with your rig. Check these out before you decide.


 I have an example (using Askar 120 APO with 0.8X reducer) with each camera on my page.
 Also - just posted my M101 image.
 Have a look at pictures I took with my Askar 120… 
https://www.astrobin.com/users/CoryAstro/
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Damien Galanaud avatar
Hello
I also have the Askar 120 that I use mosty for galaxies. It works really well, and what you can do to improve the resolution is using a camera with a smaller pixel. In fact I use 2 different cameras:
- a 2600 MC Pro for larger objects such as M33 (3.76 µ pixel size)
- a 183 MC Pro for smaller galaxies (2.4 µ pixel size).
It works really well. The 183MC Pro is an older sensor, so I would not recommend purchasing one now, but the 585 family has a similar pixel size (2.9µ), albeit with a smaller sensor but seems to give great results.

For comparison, I also have an edge HD8, that I use in combination with 533 MC/MM cameras. While it obviously gathers more light, it is a much more difficult to tame, with issues with guiding, focusing and colimation.

I for the tripod, the TC40 is clearly to light for the Askar 120. I went for a Berlebach, with a pier extension but you have plenty of options available now for the AM5
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K R avatar
Fellow Inhabitants of this beautiful planet, I cannot thank you all enough for your support. I am really tempted to go with 2000mm+ Focal Length because it is better for galaxies, but I have to remind myself to take baby steps and then graduate to a Reflector like Edge HD8. 

Summarizing, a beginner yet a powerful Remote Rig Setup: 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Telescope: Askar 120APO
Mount: ZWO AM5
Flat Panel: DeepSkyDad FLAP150 automated flats + dew protection
Power: Kasa Smart Strip + APC UPS
Dew Strip: Dew Not 16" Dew Heater Strip. (must have)
Tripod: ZWO TC-40
Battery: APC UPS Battery Backup and Surge Protector, BE650G1
1x flattener 
Focuser: ZWO EAF and Mounting bracket

When it comes to Camera there are two options: 

Option 1: ASIair
Color Camera: ZWO ASI2600MC-Air ASIAIR Integrated Wireless Camera & Guider
Computer: Not needed. ASIair is built-in the main camera 
Guide Scope: Not needed. Built-in the main camera. 
Guide Camera: Not needed. Built-in the main camera. 


Option 2: Nina
Color Camera:  ZWO ASI2600MC Pro USB 3.0 Cooled Astronomer Camera
Computer: Mini PC running NINA
Guide Scope: SVBONY SV165 30mm Mini Guide Scope
Guide Camera: ZWO ASI220MM Mini as Guide Camera


Questions Remaining: 
1) Can I program 2-3 targets in 1 night on a remote rig with Option 1? 
2) What can help me deal with light pollution? 
4) Will ZWO EAF work with NINA?
5) Can AM5 handle Edge HD8 in the future?
6) Do I need to worry about a homing feature on a mount for a remote rig?


Thank you all again.
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Damien Galanaud avatar
1 Should be possible
2 2 options that can be combined:
   - Best one: go to a dark site (I live in Paris so usually drive about 1 hour to reach a Bortle 4 spot)
   - Use a broadband light pollution filter such as the IDAS Nebula and Galaxy booster
4 Yes
5 Yes, with absolutely no problem. Just use a sturdy tripod and not the TC40. With this very setup, I noticed a major image improvement when I switched from this tripod to the Berlebach. In addition, while the TC40 will in theory handle the weight of the Edge HD8, there is a significant risk of fall without a counterweight. In nearly happened to me once and believe me you don’t want to live this experience…
6 Definitely. If your mount gets lost for any reason and you are not able to plate solve, it’s going to be a mess. At best, you will have to contact the staff to ask them to put it back in home position, at worst you may damage your equipment.
Dunk avatar
ProTip for #6 if you use NINA is to add homing as an early step in your sequence.
Dunk avatar
I'd also add: before you ship to StarFront (or anywhere else remote) - if you have the ability to shoot from home (or at least shoot from somewhere you are physically with your gear) the knowledge and experience you will gain will make working with a remote rig so much easier.
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andrea tasselli avatar
Dunk:
I'd also add: before you ship to StarFront (or anywhere else remote) - if you have the ability to shoot from home (or at least shoot from somewhere you are physically with your gear) the knowledge and experience you will gain will make working with a remote rig so much easier.


*I think this is a must. Do not ship anything anywhere remote that you haven't tested to death nearby you. Think at least 1 month of remote operation, but from your living room and with the rig outside (balcony, front porch, terrace, backgarden). When you are staisfied that it can survive unattended then you pack and ship.
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Stephan Trzeciak avatar
1.) Yes. But NINA gives you much more advanced options, especially for taylering a number of imaging aspects. But the initial learning curve is steep 😇

2.) Filters. But at Starfront you won't have light pollution…

4.) Yes

5.) Absolutely. That is the set-up I use at home 😎

6.) Absolutely. With the AM5 that is no problem. It does have a build in home location and knows it even after power outage. There is a YouTube video from Bray Falls, describing what experience they have with different equipment at Starfront, and the AM5 is a work horse there, that usually doesn't cause any issues…
K R avatar
This is incredible feedback that I have been wanting for months… Thank you so much!
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AmyWarble avatar
NINA is very powerful and can do everything ASIAIR can do plus more.  It also has a bit of a learning curve.  The ASIAIR is great for beginners, IMO.  I used my ASIAIR for the first 8 months of my hobby before upgrading to my Eagle 5 + NINA, and I'm glad I did, because it took a bit to figure NINA out.  With greater power and control comes more opportunity to do things not-quite-right, so I wouldn't recommend NINA for the uninitiated.
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K R avatar
Looks like the new version is Eagle6 but why Eagle is pricier at $1450 Vs an ASIair $349?


For future readers:

Option 3: Nina with Duo Camera
Color Camera: ZWO ASI2600MC-DUO Astronomy Camera with Imaging & Guiding Sensors
Computer: PrimaLuceLab EAGLE6 Computer 
Guide Scope: Not needed. 
Guide Camera: Not needed. Built-in the main camera. 


Option 4: ASIAir with Duo Camera
Color Camera: ZWO ASI2600MC-DUO Astronomy Camera with Imaging & Guiding Sensors
Computer: ZWO ASIAIR Plus WiFi Controller - ASIAIR-PLUS for Astrophotography
Guide Scope: Not needed. 
Guide Camera: Not needed. Built-in the main camera.
AmyWarble avatar
I realize you want to remote host your telescope, but I agree with the suggestion to do it from home for a bit.

Stuff to consider:
  • wire management
    • adhesive plastic wire clips (if a wire snags you want the clip to give before equipment is damaged)
    • ferrite bead cores
    • colored electrical tape
      • I placed some red tape around my main power cable so i know where it fits into the clips - no snags!
      • Another piece of red electrical tape lets me tell my dew heater cables apart, in case a sensor comes out

    • zip ties
    • velcro ties
    • backup cables!
      • I had a cable snag once.  it pulled apart a USB connector and shredded the wire, so I couldn't do imaging until I got a replacement
      • telescope wire management was something I had to learn by screwing up.

    • velcro or interlocking-tape for mounting wall warts to the legs of the tripod

  • red flashlight (to avoid wrecking your night vision)
  • glass cleaning
    • I use a 99.9% isopropyl alcohol solution and deionized water to clean my optics.
    • kimwipes
    • a bulb air blower

  • snacks!
  • anti-seize for bolts (my spouse is a hobbyist mechanic and insisted on this)
  • a sky atlas (The Astrophotography Sky Atlas by Charles Bracken is great)
  • a battery supply to protect against temporary power loss
    • my dog once stepped on my power strip, turning it off.  (he's still a Good Boy)
    • I once tripped on my extension cord, unplugging it.
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Tony Gondola avatar
Dunk:
I'd also add: before you ship to StarFront (or anywhere else remote) - if you have the ability to shoot from home (or at least shoot from somewhere you are physically with your gear) the knowledge and experience you will gain will make working with a remote rig so much easier.

I would go further buy turning it into a game. No matter what happens you are not allowed to be hands on with the gear at any time. Once to can do that for a few months, you'll be ready.
Tony Gondola avatar
AmyWarble:
NINA is very powerful and can do everything ASIAIR can do plus more.  It also has a bit of a learning curve.  The ASIAIR is great for beginners, IMO.  I used my ASIAIR for the first 8 months of my hobby before upgrading to my Eagle 5 + NINA, and I'm glad I did, because it took a bit to figure NINA out.  With greater power and control comes more opportunity to do things not-quite-right, so I wouldn't recommend NINA for the uninitiated.

I don't think NINA is that complicated, if you can figure out PixInsight, you can figure out NINA. There's tons of how-too videos on YouTube. I would just start with learning about the bare minimum you need to run a session, simple sequencer, no filter wheel, etc. Just learn how to connect your hardware and plate solving software and go from there. You can add the rest as you go.
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K R avatar
Thanks All!
MING ZIWEN avatar
K R:
Dear Astro Experts,

I'm new to astrophotography and could use some guidance. A fellow member recommended that I post my questions here.

I'm considering purchasing the Askar 120APO telescope paired with the ZWO AM5 mount. My goal is to build a rig that’s both user-friendly and powerful, with a primary focus on imaging galaxies (and less so on nebulas). Eventually, I’d like to make the setup remotely operable and potentially ship it to StarFront for remote use.
 

Here’s the setup I’m currently considering:

    [*]
    Telescope: Askar 120APO
    [*]
    Mount: ZWO AM5
    [*]
    Camera: ZWO ASI2600MC Air Pro (wireless version with built-in guiding support)
    [*]
    Tripod: ZWO TC40
    [*]
    Guide Scope: Not sure which one?



Do you see any issues with this setup? Is there anything important I’m missing?
 

Thank you in advance for your help!

*** I have a few small suggestions for your guide mirror. I suggest replacing the main camera with ZWO2600mcPro then buy a guided star camera separately (currently I use ASI220MIN) and buy an oag to use with it, which can effectively avoid too few stars or too dark stars when the camera is paired with a narrow band filter。Wish I  can help you bro***
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