Karel Schel avatar
Hi all,

I'm having some issues with powering my astro gear. Whenever current draw is high (like when cooling camera), my input voltage gradually drops until it is near 10.5V.
Obviously, this is not ideal for the equipment, but simply purchasing a regulated 12V power supply won't fully solve my problems.

That is because I also power my astro gear using the cigarette adapter on my Fox Halo 48K power bank:
 

I've tried putting one of these 8-40V to 12V regulators in between my power input and power supply, but when I use this, none of my gear powers on (even though a multimeter shows a steady 12V output).


I've tried looking for cigarette adapter plugs that convert 12V to 13.5V in hopes it would give me enough voltage, but I haven't been able to find anything. I'm completely lost, has anyone else experienced this issue?
Or can anyone think of a solution?

Thanks in advance,
Karel
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Médéric Hébert avatar
Have you check if the 8-40V regulator can regulate enough Amps?
Karel Schel avatar
Yes, it's an extra beefy one rated for 10A.
I'm running an ASI2600MM Pro, Asiair mini and a Star Adventurer GTi so definitely not getting near the 10A limit. 
​​​​Also no dew heaters involved
Himanshu Pandey avatar
The power circuit on that battery can't supply the necessary current to support the voltage when you use it to power the cooler on board these cameras.   If you must use a battery source simply get a larger one. 

While that battery should be able to handle the load it is not doing it.  Perhaps there's a cell inside going bad or something faulty with its internal DC to DC conversion circuit.

I would try a new battery, and even something larger actually to handle camera cooling and tracking mount for hours at a time.

edit: I looked at the web page for the battery and I don't see a continuous rating on the 12v outlet, just a maximum rating.   The only amp ratings are for the USB level outputs.  I think you are simply overloading for that application.    153 watt-hours for the battery is on the small side for imaging with a running cooler unless you are keeping it to just a couple hours at a time.
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Jos Stassen avatar
I'm using a Anker Solix C300X. Why this one: car socket is rated at 12v 10A, which powers my AM5N mount, ZWO cam, focuser, dew lint (lowest setting) and a MELE mini PC running NINA. After 5-6 hours about 30% capacity is left.
The light on top is fantastic!
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Richard Rice avatar
I have been using the same voltage regulator for a a long time without issue. However I’m using a much larger battery. The low voltage can be the result of a poor battery pack as mentioned before, volt drop on you supply cable/connectors or possibly both.  If the issue is the battery pack then the voltage regulator won’t help, as the issue is power not voltage. However, if the issue is volt drop then you could help matters by using a cable with a larger cross sectional area. I’m using a pair of 10AWG ultra flexible Silicone wires to feed my switch from my battery. And ensuring that your connectors are of good quality with low contact resistance. 
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Karel Schel avatar
Thank you all for the helpful replies,

I'm going to run some experiments to see if I can work this out. I'm hoping the battery isn't broken and it's simply the wiring, mostly because I purchased it based on the high current output and <160 Wh required to bring it on a plane. 
Will keep you all updated smile

CS!
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Karel Schel avatar
Update!

It was, indeed, the wiring. I was using a DC splitter near my power supply that was only rated for 5A.
Whilst my setup only consumed about 3A, it was enough for the thin wiring to cause a voltage drop. I've replaced the splitter and am now sitting at a comfortable 11.4V smile

Thanks guys!
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Karel Schel avatar
Richard Rice:
I have been using the same voltage regulator for a a long time without issue. However I’m using a much larger battery. The low voltage can be the result of a poor battery pack as mentioned before, volt drop on you supply cable/connectors or possibly both.  If the issue is the battery pack then the voltage regulator won’t help, as the issue is power not voltage. However, if the issue is volt drop then you could help matters by using a cable with a larger cross sectional area. I’m using a pair of 10AWG ultra flexible Silicone wires to feed my switch from my battery. And ensuring that your connectors are of good quality with low contact resistance. 

Managed to squeeze my regulator into a tight 3D-printed enclosure with voltage and current monitoring. Seems to produce a neglectable amount of heat during normal operation 

Pliers for scale
Richard Rice avatar
Very neat. I like it!
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