Small cheap AP setups - Forums

Topic starter

Feb 9, 2016 · Edited: Feb 9, 2016

I currently have an exos2 with a cheap 4" f10 achro. My AP attempts so far have been limited. I want to get a faster newtonian so that I can try AP again. I know the EQ5 is limited but I did manage some shots with it by keeping exposures low, change to an F5 newtonian will help there as my exposures can be a quarter of what they are. The mount is small but the budget doesn't permit anything better right now and a small 5" - 6" newtonian should be a similar load to my refractor. In addition to that I now have a goto unit on the EXOS2 which I should be able to drive through an ST4 and use guiding. I have a cheap 80mm f5 refractor which is waiting to be used for guiding.

Everything in the setup is secondhand or homebuilt which probably give some idea of the budget.

So with all the above where would you start building an AP setup. I have the choice of skywatcher 130pds, 150pds or at a push an orion optics VX6. The 6" should presumably offer a slight resolution advantage and bigger image size but other than that is there any reason to not use the 130pds?

Ta

bobzeq25

Feb 12, 2016 · Edited: Feb 12, 2016

Since no one has responded, I'll say it. If you want small and cheap, you want a camera tracker, a camera, and a lens. Search "skytracker" here for examples. Some nice images with that setup.

Shooting through a scope isn't cheap, because the tracking requirements are extreme. You're trying to hold a long telephoto on a moving target for a long time. An error of 1/1000 of an inch will blur the best optics and camera. My idea of the minimum mount for that is the $1200 Sirius. With a scope under ten pounds and 600mm focal length.

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JHolland

Feb 19, 2016

I'm coming into this conversation a little late but here is an idea.

I'm going to assume that you have a DSLR or else this suggestion will be too expensive. Like the previous post mentioned, you could invest in a lens (or use one you own) and use the current mount to do some cool wide field stuff. I think the Canon 200mm f2.8 is a great lens for that. Nikon makes some similar lenses in that ballpark. You could go wider and cheaper too. Canon makes 50mm f1.8 lens and 24mm f2.8 lenses that are inexpensive and great for wide shots. If you use your cheap refractor as a guider and piggyback the camera and 50mm f1.8, and then guide through the refractor, you could produce some really nice images since I am estimating that the load would be down under half of the recommended maximum. You could also just mount the camera on a dovetail and then just shoot unguided. I do that on my mount often.

Here is the thing about these kind of mounts (I have a similar mount, the celestron AVX). You have to be down under 1/2 the weight rating to get good results with photos. Their ratings are for visual astronomy.

It is the greatest hobby in the world so keep at it! Clear skies to you, Jason

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Carastro

Mar 26, 2016

If you get something like the SW130PDS and use the finderscope as your guide scope this will keep the weight down. You'll find out soon enough if the mount is capable of this load. I know people who have used an EQ5 successfully. It will limit your choice of scopes of course, but should work OK.

A mount I used in the past which you can pick up quite cheaply is a CG5 GT.

Good luck.

Carole

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4inthemorning

Topic starter

Mar 26, 2016

I thought the CG5, EQ5, Exos2 were all the same mount just rebranded (minor differences but mechanically identical). In the end I went with the 150pds. Part of my reasoning for do that was that from talking to people on another forum they had found if used with a DSLR then with the weight of the camera and short tube length they had to add extra weight to balance the setup. So rather than add weights to a scope whose virtue should be light weight I would be as well getting the extra resolution , a scope that is slightly more usable visually and larger image scale of the 150 / 750 arrangement.

Of course since then I have only had the combination of time, weather and moon to set it up twice and don't (yet) know entirely what I'm doing. Though to be honest my biggest issue is not understanding the image processing with the data I have gathered.

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Slawomir

Mar 27, 2016

Hi 4inthemorning, it is great to heat your are getting back to astroimaging. Obtaining quality data is increasingly more difficult at longer focal lengths, so I would suggest using a telescope with the shortest focal length you have to get started with imaging again (less demanding as for accurate tracking and less weight put on your mount). Also, auto guiding is a must for deep space photography - a small guide scope (100-200mm focal length) would be plenty and also relatively cheap. As for the guide camera, second hand SSAG would probably be one of the cheapest options? In terms of image processing, well, this is really a never ending journey of learning how to get the most out of your data. There are plenty of resources on the Internet explaining in detail how to calibrate your subs and how to reveal hidden gems from your data. Good luck and keep us posted.

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Flint

Apr 11, 2016

I have only recently begun astro images in the last few months. I chose to go down the "nice lens" route as kind of a try it before you buy scenario before spending lots of money on telescopes and gear.
I have a 60D, so I purchased a Tamron SP 7-200mm f/2.8 Di VC USD which gives me an effective 300mm on the crop sensor of the 60D.
Mounted it on a Skywatcher Star Adventurer mount.
In my opinion the combination performs well.
I also play around with a 1.4X teleconverter and things start to get a bit wild at 420mm.

I am learning a lot with this reasonably compact rig.
http://www.astrobin.com/244732/

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Xerxes

Apr 11, 2016

I am facing a similar decision - photographing with a Nikon DSLR and a 200mm f2.8 lens. I am looking for a mounts that will eventually handle a 100mm refractor.
Any thoughts on one of the following mounts:

Ioptron IEQ30 or the ZEQ25/CEM25[/*]
SkyWatcher AZ-EQ5[/*]

I do not want a very heavy mount (bad back) and these appear to be reasonably light.

Thanks!