Andrey Tonchev avatar
Hello I want to ask a question about what equipment to get for deepsky objects. I was reading here and there for cheap starting equipment. I was deciding between 2 DSLR's : Canon 2000D and Canon 600D and i want to ask which one is better and if there is another good alternative what is it and why. And the lens i was thinking to get is the Canon 75-300mm 4-5.6F. I know its a slow one but i read that its not a problem when i have Star Tracker (Im probably going to get StarAdventurer 2i pro). If there is better option please tell me. Thanks for the help.
Guillermo (Guy) Yanez avatar
I have owned the Canon 600D, and it is a good option to get you started on a budget. I have also owned the same lens, but it is a no-go on that one. The 75-300mm f/4-5.6 is a budget-friendly lens and will deliver very good results for your daytime photography but will exhibit a considerable amount of chromatic aberration and elongated stars anywhere outside the very middle of the field. Hence, it performs poorly for astrophotography. The long focal length is not going to be your major concern, but the optical quality will surely be. You will also want to pay attention to difficulties when focusing with that lens as it will not maintain focus as you move the system around.Also, do consider that an unmodified DSLR will have very limited sensitivity to Ha. If you really want to capture nebulas, I would rather look elsewhere.The mount is a good choice (SW SA 2i), but maybe you should look for a second-hand camera and telescope/lens that may provide much better results at the same price point. Unless you really need your camera/lens for daytime photography too, you could look for the Askar F180 astrograph lens and perhaps a ZWO 1600 MC Pro camera or the 294 MC Pro. If you go second-hand, you will very likely be around the same overall budget.

Good luck
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Jon Rista avatar
I would avoid any zoom lenses for astrophotography. For zoom lenses to work, certain optical sacrifices usually need to be made, and those will be compounded with astrophotography and all the POINT light sources (stars). Especially in the periphery of the frame. 

It is best to choose a prime lens for astrophotography. This need not necessarily be an expensive lens, some of the Samyang/Rokinon lenses deliver exceptional performance for astrophotography and are not too costly. A prime lens will help with ensuring quality stars throughout the field. NOT every lens, NOT every prime lens, is capable of producing good quality stars at the edges and particularly corners of the field. In fact, a majority will not. You should do your research and make sure whatever lens you choose is one that delivers good astrophotography performance, notably stars that are fairly round in the corners, rather than comet shaped, cross shaped, or otherwise abberated. There are a lot fewer lenses that can do that, than lenses that can deliver good quality terrestrial (i.e. landscapes, wildlife, portraiture, still life, etc.) performance. 

As Guillermo shared, focus is going to be a challenge. Most optical systems need regular re-focusing throughout the night to maintain good enough focus for astrophotography. For that, you may want to look into a more expensive lens than a Samyang/Rokinon and look into a Canon prime lens with autofocus capabilities. If you have a Canon DSLR with a Canon AF lens, then you could use software such as APT or BackyardEOS to help you focus. With APT if can be automated, which can be helpful (well…the docs say so, now that I think about it I am not sure if it works with a DSLR; worth trying though) in quickly maintaining focus throughout the night. BackyardEOS doesn't support autofocus, but it does have focusing capabilities that make it pretty easy to find optimal focus fairly quickly. The way I used to do it was to set up a short sequence, let it rip, then focus after it was done, and repeat as desired. 

Exactly what lens would depend on what you want to image. FWIW, imaging smaller objects with greater magnification is harder to do, even with a prime lens. Wider fields are easier, although ultra wide fields will usually present their own issues. Medium to wideish fields are probably the sweet spot for a beginner. I would say a 24mm, 50mm, 100mm or 200mm lens would do the trick, let you get started, without presenting too much of a tracking challenge. A StarAdventurer is a good little mount. I have one, and it seems the major change with the 2i is wifi maybe? I don't know what else may have changed, but mine has been a pretty reliable little mount. Its not the best available, but its good for a start. There used to be an alternative called the Fornax LighTrack II, which I thought was a better quality, better designed mount. That said, I cannot reach their web site, so I don't know if they are still in business. 

Good tracking, good focus…I think these two things are key. That, and corner star performance (when focused) in your lens.
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Tim Ray avatar
I agree with everyone who has already responded. The Camera Lens is the Samyang 135. Images can be found all over Astrobin. I would lean into a dedicated astro camera. The 533/294/1600 are all good choices. All are available in color or mono versions. I am a ZWO man but all of these cameras can be sourced by OEM vendors at a discount. The Samyang is getting pricey. Maybe a small refractor (Sharpstar 61EDPH II) might be another choice (There are many in this form factor).  But the best choice for a camera lens is the Samyang/Ronikon 135 lens.

Good Luck and Clear Skies.

Tim

PS. This hobby is fantastic and the rewards from making your own astro photographs are personal bordering on euphoric as the image appears on the monitor. With that said… Cheap - Inexpensive are words rarely used in the same sentence with Astrophotography. The best place to start is the Mounting…  Cheers!
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Eric Gagne avatar
Many people here will tell you not to get the 75-300mm kit lens, many of whom I suspect have never owned or even tried one.  I learned the hard way that throwing money at this hobby is not the way to learn it.  Fancy equipment comes with a learning curve, it doesn't automagically make your pictures better or easier to capture.

I suggest you watch youtube videos from well known astrophotographers who tested this lens and decide for yourself.  You'll be surprised.   Here's a few, I am sure a quick search would lead to many more.

Astrobackyard: 
https://youtu.be/_gllwIvPqGE?si=K_z-0GHmxxx3bqf7

Astrobackyard and Nebula Photos (they had little competition): 
https://youtu.be/_gllwIvPqGE?si=K_z-0GHmxxx3bqf7
https://youtu.be/ITe0VI02t-8?si=rrDnGkP6_MgMh46F

Delta astrophotography: 
https://youtu.be/4r8tib5QQ90?si=X8qouh8kUghBlo3N
https://youtu.be/CmzpCugYF1A?si=dlCSK0iOp2Bh5sy4
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Jon Rista avatar
Eric Gagne:
Many people here will tell you not to get the 75-300mm kit lens, many of whom I suspect have never owned or even tried one.  I learned the hard way that throwing money at this hobby is not the way to learn it.  Fancy equipment comes with a learning curve, it doesn't automagically make your pictures better or easier to capture.

I suggest you watch youtube videos from well known astrophotographers who tested this lens and decide for yourself.  You'll be surprised.   Here's a few, I am sure a quick search would lead to many more.

Astrobackyard: 
https://youtu.be/_gllwIvPqGE?si=K_z-0GHmxxx3bqf7

Astrobackyard and Nebula Photos (they had little competition): 
https://youtu.be/_gllwIvPqGE?si=K_z-0GHmxxx3bqf7
https://youtu.be/ITe0VI02t-8?si=rrDnGkP6_MgMh46F

Delta astrophotography: 
https://youtu.be/4r8tib5QQ90?si=X8qouh8kUghBlo3N
https://youtu.be/CmzpCugYF1A?si=dlCSK0iOp2Bh5sy4

TBF, those examples demonstrate exactly what I stated about the lens. The corner performance is horrible, with cross-shaped or comet stars in the corners, and elongated stars throughout the peripheral regions of the frame. If this is acceptable to you, then the lens should be fine...but, notably cross-shaped and comet-shaped stars as you move away from center field is generally a problem people complain about. This particular lens has long been known to produce problematic stars in the periphery, stating as much was not a guess or arbitrary statement.

You can spend very little money to get started, and...well, suffer the consequences, limitations and frustrations of doing so. Or you can spend a REASONABLE amount of money and not suffer so much, or even at all. The manual focus Samyang 135 lens can be found for around $300 or so, which IMO is NOT a high cost or barrier to entry into the hobby.
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Oscar avatar
IMO, get a Redcat 51 instead of the zoom lens

and for a camera, get a dedicated one, like a 2600mc-pro which I recommend

and if you don't like the price, then a 533mc pro

and if you don't like the square format of the 533, then get a 071mc pro