Intro to Momo - Non-cooled camera - Forums

Topic starter

Apr 23, 2024

I've been imaging with a OSC camera (ASI533MC Pro) for a while now but I'm looking to have a go at mono. In an ideal world, I'd buy a ASI2600MM Pro with LRGB SHO filter set and wheel but money doesn't grow on trees. I have the opportunity to buy an Altair 183M from a friend for £250 so this is a tempting way in. However, I'm concerned that as it's only fan cooled, is it worth the effort. This sensor does produce amp glow so dark frames are going to be important.

Does anyone use a non cooled mono camera for DSO imaging and if so, how do you deal with calibration files?

TIA!

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andrea tasselli

Frequent contributor

Apr 23, 2024

Main advice is: DON'T. Beside that, the IMX183 isn't a very good sensor, quite noisy (RTF and RON) and less than 12bit of dynamics. Save up for the real thing or at least the IMX533MM based ones which can be had at a reasonable price.

Craig Dixon

Topic starter

Apr 23, 2024

Thanks for your input. I do keep coming back to the 533 as it does seem like a much better choice but I already have a 533MC Pro so it seems like I'd be missing out of expanding my FOV options with another 533. 2600MM is the one to get for sure but nothing comes cheap these days.

Kristof Vandebeek

Apr 23, 2024

andrea tasselli:
Main advice is: DON'T. Beside that, the IMX183 isn't a very good sensor, quite noisy (RTF and RON) and less than 12bit of dynamics. Save up for the real thing or at least the IMX533MM based ones which can be had at a reasonable price.

That is exactly what I did - I went for an IMX533MM and haven't regretted taking that step since. It's a fairly cheap mono camera, and you can even combine it with images taken with your 533MC Pro.

Of course, the price gap between the used 183 that you are referring to and a new IMX533MM is big enough, but I'd just save up for the 533 if I were you. Don't forget: you'll also need filters and a filter drawer or filter wheel.

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B0bby White

Apr 23, 2024

IMX 533 is much newer sensor(especially in terms of temperature noise). Maybe you can sell your OSC and get 533 Mono, spending a little bit?

My point main goal of cooling camera not lower temperature, but stable temperature! It's much more important for calibration.

Craig Dixon

Topic starter

Apr 23, 2024

I must admit, I do love my 533MC Pro, it's a great camera. I'm not looking to switch to mono though but rather run a mono rig alongside. With so many cloudy nights, I thing OSC is much better for me but I'd like to get into mono. Thanks for all the advice. it looks like waiting for a 2600 of 533 is the consensus.

Craig Dixon

Topic starter

Apr 23, 2024

So, a follow-up question… What size filters for 2600MM Pro. Minimum 36mm?

andrea tasselli

Frequent contributor

Apr 23, 2024

Yep. Although it also depends on how fast is the scope and the distance filter to sensor. With your MN you'll be allright with 36mm.

chvvkumar

Jun 25, 2024

I was in a similar situation as you and in the end ended up going with the ASI533MM and kept my 533MC. I did get 36mm filters so that I can go up to APS-C in the future if I wanted to.

Dunk

Jun 25, 2024

I was in a similar situation as you and in the end ended up going with the ASI533MM and kept my 533MC. I did get 36mm filters so that I can go up to APS-C in the future if I wanted to.

This is very good advice. Buy 36mm filters if you can stretch to it as they'll continue to work for you if/when you upgrade later.

(also +1 for the 533mm - its an excellent camera)

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Tromat

Jun 26, 2024

I use a 183M mono fan cooled from Altair for a few years now. It's a great camera, not the best, not the most easiest but yet simple and effective. If I could go for a cooled one it would be great but I am budget limited. The trickiest part is, as you guessed, dealing with the darks.
The best way to make them is on different nights, with different temperature and make a dark library to choose the closest one for your datas. What I do is... well, not what I should ^^ I have that one master dark with 200 subs I did eons ago and it works realtively well. The amp glow is correctly fixed as it's mostly exposure time dependent. For the hot spots not enough corrected, the CosmeticCorrection tool from Pixinsight do a good job.

Overall a great budget cam and a good introduction to mono cam, but if you can go for a cooled one without amp glow go for it.
You can check what I do with this cam here on AB, or here (french forum) : http://www.astrosurf.com/profile/48119-tromat2/?do=content&type=forums_topic&change_section=1

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Craig Dixon

Topic starter

Jun 26, 2024

Here's a little update. My main setup is a Skywatcher 190MN, EQ6-R Pro, ASI533MC Pro, ASIAir, etc. this is permanently mounted in a garden observatory and is a fantastic setup that I really enjoy using. I've been wanting to try mono imaging for some time now but without compromising my current setup, the idea being, I can set my 190MN going (2 minutes to roll off the roof and get imaging) knowing that I'll have good data coming in whilst I experiment with another setup in mono.

I managed to purchase a used Altair 183M very cheap on eBay (£230) and FLO had some ex-demo ZWO LRGB and SHO 31mm filters at half price so I got those and a new ZWO 31mm filter wheel. I already have a SW 72ED, guide scope/cam and a mini PC with NINA & I'm going to borrow an EQ5 from a friend. I also made an EAF using an Arduino Nano and ascom driver. So I'm pretty much ready to go. I just need some dark nights and to learn how to use NINA.

The end goal is to get a 2600MM Pro but the 183M allows me to get into mono at a much lower cost. Calibration files will be the biggest challenge for sure though.

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