How best to polar align?

I have had an EQ6R Pro mount for a couple of months now and am starting to learn astrophotography (with a modest degree of success, I think). I have not attempted guiding yet (as I want to learn to walk before starting to run), so I am limiting myself to relatively short exposure times.

But it's clear to me that getting good polar alignment is a key to success.

At the moment, I do this by levelling my mount and aligning it roughly north using a compass. Then I use the polar scope and position Polaris at the right place in the reticle (using the iPhone app Polar Align Pro).

But I suspect this is not super accurate (it also means some pretty uncomfortable crouching and neck craning!)

I have heard of a piece of kit called QHY Polemaster which connects to a piece of software on the laptop. There may be other techniques…?

What do you guys do? What would you recommend?

Hi @Stuart Taylor ,

SharpCap Pro has a routine for that and it works really good. The price is reasonable (about 12 € / year) and it simply works. Maybe give it a try.

Greetings,
Michael

Michael Timm:
Hi @Stuart Taylor ,

SharpCap Pro has a routine for that and it works really good. The price is reasonable (about 12 € / year) and it simply works. Maybe give it a try.

Greetings,
Michael

Thanks. I currently use APT, rather than Sharpcap. Unfortunately, it looks like Sharpcap only supports astro cameras (I am using a Canon DSLR)

Stuart Taylor:
Thanks. I currently use APT, rather than Sharpcap. Unfortunately, it looks like Sharpcap only supports astro cameras (I am using a Canon DSLR)
=14px

Actually you can use Sharpcap with a DSLR using the ASCOM Driver, you have to look if your canon is compatible, probably yes!

You need to install the Ascom Platform on your PC, and than the ASCOM DSLR Driver:

https://github.com/vtorkalo/ASCOM.DSLR

Cheers

Or if not, you can also use Kstar-Ekos which it has a powerfull Polar Alignment tool.

Timothy Prospero:
Stuart Taylor:
Thanks. I currently use APT, rather than Sharpcap. Unfortunately, it looks like Sharpcap only supports astro cameras (I am using a Canon DSLR)
=14px

Actually you can use Sharpcap with a DSLR using the ASCOM Driver, you have to look if your canon is compatible, probably yes!

You need to install the Ascom Platform on your PC, and than the ASCOM DSLR Driver:

https://github.com/vtorkalo/ASCOM.DSLR

Cheers

Ok, thanks. Not sure where the actual driver is in that long list of files and folders! (I've never used github)

I have iPolar on my mount (since it's from iOptron), which is similar to PoleMaster (or maybe even the very same). It can achieve a very good polar alignment (error less than 2' ) which is usually sufficient for my requirements.

I don't know how much you are interested in the "basics" of astronomy but in case you are, you can also practice manual drift align.

CS!

Björn

Stuart Taylor:
Timothy Prospero:
Stuart Taylor:
Thanks. I currently use APT, rather than Sharpcap. Unfortunately, it looks like Sharpcap only supports astro cameras (I am using a Canon DSLR)
=14px

Actually you can use Sharpcap with a DSLR using the ASCOM Driver, you have to look if your canon is compatible, probably yes!

You need to install the Ascom Platform on your PC, and than the ASCOM DSLR Driver:

https://github.com/vtorkalo/ASCOM.DSLR

Cheers

Ok, thanks. Not sure where the actual driver is in that long list of files and folders! (I've never used github)

https://github.com/FearL0rd/ASCOM.DSLR/blob/master/DSLR.Camera%20Setup.exe

Hi Stuart,

I was in a similar situation last year. I started off using a Skywatcher Star adventurer and DSLR, managed to master that, but for longer exposers and ease of finding targets I upgraded to the EQ mount and new scope . I purchased a guide cam ASI120mm and scope for sharpcap and guiding.

I also felt a bit overwhelmed at first by each process such as guiding and still am to be honest as I'm just getting into plate solving but it will come, all we need is practice and clear skies!!

Anyways what I recommend is, take the plunge and buy a guide cam/scope and use Sharpcap for polar alignment and PHD2 for guiding. You have a great EQ mount so make the most of it. Once you've done that you will wonder why you waited. both very user friendly and plenty of video's on you tube to help.

One step at a time and as you progress, try and get to grips with ASCOM. I now use Stellerium / ASCOM / APT to control my set up and i find it very efficient to use. But until then, use the hand controller for the routine / Star alignment and finding targets / ST4 guiding until confident to pule guide.

I hope this is of some help. All the best.

Anthony

A lot of folks like Sharpcap but I can tell you as an EQ6-R user myself, I have a Polemaster and I am able to achieve very good polar alignment in under 5 minutes. There have been many threads on this particular topic (which PA technique is fastest/best) on the Cloudy Nights forums – you might want to check those out as well.

Clear Skies!

Like many others I use Sharpcap. I add a modestly priced guidescope (30 quid) and an even less expensive camera I have hanging around and I'm done.

Hi Stuart,

I don't have a Polemaster but it is unclear to me why would anyone pay 250 quid for it when you can get a guiderscope and a mini astrocam for about the same price, use them for PA with at least two different free programs (Ekos or PHD2) let alone the paid ones and also have the option of using them for guiding if you want. I think that would be better value for money.

Note: you may also use Ekos (or the commercial Sharpcap) to do PA with your DSLR and it will work great. In fact ASIAIR incorporates a very similar routine and it is very much usable with DSLRs. The only inconvenience is when adjusting, you will have to wait 4-5 seconds for the preview to refresh since the image takes that long to download from the camera. With an astrocam at bin 2x2 refresh is practically instant.

Cheers,
Dimitris

<<<I don't have a Polemaster but it is unclear to me why would anyone pay 250 quid for it when you can get a guiderscope and a mini astrocam for about the same price, use them for PA with at least two different free programs (Ekos or PHD2) let alone the paid onesand also have the option of using them for guiding if you want. I think that would be better value for money.>>

That is a good point. Hindsight and knowledge are 20/20. However, many folks (including myself) followed a progression that looks something like this:

1. Still tripod, camera.
2. Small tracker (such as SA2), camera
3. Polemaster for small tracker once we realize the limitations of the tracker with bad PA using the built-in tool
4. EQ Mount and Telescope (use Polemaster for this mount as well) - but unguided
5. Add guiding...

In this case, I already had the PM in hand and the guide cam didn't come until I was in the hobby for 6 months.

Clear Skies!

I have an ASIAIR Pro, it uses plate solving and takes literally a couple of minutes to get aligned.

Hi Stuart,

I use the polarscope of my AZ-EQ6. I verify regularly that it is well aligned (center a star on the crosshair, rotate the RA axis and check that the star stays at the intersection). Then, on a leveled tripod, I carefully align polaris where predicted by either the hand controller (if using one) or by Eqmod or by a small app. I wrote. Your Iphone app. should be equally good as long as it replicates the reticle of your mount accurately. Using this routine, I systematically get measured drifts of less than 0.5"/minute on both axes without any further correction.

Frédéric

Stuart Taylor:
I have had an EQ6R Pro mount for a couple of months now and am starting to learn astrophotography (with a modest degree of success, I think). I have not attempted guiding yet (as I want to learn to walk before starting to run), so I am limiting myself to relatively short exposure times.

But it's clear to me that getting good polar alignment is a key to success.

At the moment, I do this by levelling my mount and aligning it roughly north using a compass. Then I use the polar scope and position Polaris at the right place in the reticle (using the iPhone app Polar Align Pro).

But I suspect this is not super accurate (it also means some pretty uncomfortable crouching and neck craning!)

I have heard of a piece of kit called QHY Polemaster which connects to a piece of software on the laptop. There may be other techniques...?

What do you guys do? What would you recommend?

Once you get Polemaster you will never PA another way , i have a friend who resisted to the last getting one and PA as you do , getting neckache everytime , as soon as she got it she said she wished she had listened to me and got one earlier 3 or 4 minutes dead on PA.
HTH
Roger

I use SharpCap pro and have done it with both a dedicated astro cam and my Canon EOS Ra with no issues. I can get a low PA error in Sharp Cap and my guiding is usually 0.60" +/- total error as long as my SNR for my guide star is .20 or higher. I live and shoot in a bortle 8 zone.

No doubt the pole master is good - but it is expensive. If you are going to buy a guide scope and a cam for guiding, I would recommend at least starting with SharpCap simply because it is cheaper and real easy to use and you will need a scope / cam for guiding any ways with using the EQ6-R Pro.

obviously i got it because i had spent an arm and a leg on astro kit anyway , and PM is one of the cheaper bits considering the EQ6 r goes for £1200 squids! so didnt want rely on software to do it i wanted a quick visual way of PA.
Roger

Jared Holloway:
I use SharpCap pro and have done it with both a dedicated astro cam and my Canon EOS Ra with no issues. I can get a low PA error in Sharp Cap and my guiding is usually 0.60" +/- total error as long as my SNR for my guide star is .20 or higher. I live and shoot in a bortle 8 zone.

No doubt the pole master is good - but it is expensive. If you are going to buy a guide scope and a cam for guiding, I would recommend at least starting with SharpCap simply because it is cheaper and real easy to use and you will need a scope / cam for guiding any ways with using the EQ6-R Pro.

I'd totally agree on Jared's points. Sooner or later you'll have to auto-guide if you want to up your game. Better not waste that money on gizmo that is only useful for polar alignment and rather spend the money on something that will keep you in good steed later on. Besides and with a lot of hindsight the sooner you go guiding the better is going to be, no point in wasting time on PA when auto-guiding is so much better anyway (and besides, when autoguiding PA isn't that important any more).

SharpCap is pretty good but you need to have the Pole in sight.
Since I don't, I drift with PHD2. I've been doing it for long time so I can reach a good PA within 10 minutes

SharpCap is pretty good but you need to have the Pole in sight.
Since I don't, I drift with PHD2. I've been doing it for long time so I can reach a good PA within 10 minutes.

Have you tried Kstar-Ekos?
the Polar Alignment do not require Polaris in view, its great software and much easier than drift..

You guys really are terrific! Thank you!

Yes, I have the pole in sight. That's how I manage to use the polar scope in my mount ;-)

So it sounds like the Polemaster is probs not the way to go (totally take the point about a £250 piece of kit which only does one job).

I am sure I'll be guiding at some stage, so I shall need a guidescope and cam in due course.

As I only have one camera (a DSLR) and I connect that to my 8" SCT (with a 0.63 reducer) could I use that for polar alignment with Sharpcap? Or would the field of view be too narrow?

EDIT: wait a sec... did you say with guiding, polar alignment isn't important?? How so?

Stuart Taylor:
You guys really are terrific! Thank you!

Yes, I have the pole in sight. That's how I manage to use the polar scope in my mount ;-)

So it sounds like the Polemaster is probs not the way to go (totally take the point about a £250 piece of kit which only does one job).

I am sure I'll be guiding at some stage, so I shall need a guidescope and cam in due course.

As I only have one camera (a DSLR) and I connect that to my 8" SCT (with a 0.63 reducer) could I use that for polar alignment with Sharpcap? Or would the field of view be too narrow?

EDIT: wait a sec... did you say with guiding, polar alignment isn't important?? How so?

*Polar misalignment introduces drift. Drift is finite positional error in time. Autoguiding can compensate for that (within limits obviously).

In practice, you are good with about 2-3 arc minutes of PA error. It is seldom worth the trouble to bring it below 1 arc minute.

As I only have one camera (a DSLR) and I connect that to my 8" SCT (with a 0.63 reducer) could I use that for polar alignment with Sharpcap? Or would the field of view be too narrow?

The field is okay. The solver needs about 10 stars.

As I only have one camera (a DSLR) and I connect that to my 8" SCT (with a 0.63 reducer) could I use that for polar alignment with Sharpcap? Or would the field of view be too narrow?

The field is okay. The solver needs about 10 stars.

SharpCap needs around 1 degree worth of field within a 90 degree of rotation of the polar axis.

Stuart, I use a portable 1990s set up and use polar drift alignment in PHD - typically I’m achieving 0.5-1” on PA and a typical autoguiding RMS = 0.8”. PHD is completely FREE, supports many guide cameras and ST4 or ASCOM guiding via modern mounts (mine is connected via ST4, and a homemade relay, to the hand controller.

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