Fuji X-T4, extracting more red HA colour - Forums

Topic starter

Jun 7, 2021

Hi team.I've been doing Astrophotography for over a year now and I have a question that's been bugging me for quite sometime. Does Fuji actually absorb 30% more of HA light compared to other camera models? Do I really need to buy another moded camera?Quite recently I've been obsessed with deepsky photography and with getting more and more detail. I want to know if getting enhanced red nebulae colour is possible without a moded camera. I have never used a moded cam, so I do not know what to compare it to.here are some deepsky and landscape photos I have taken with my fuji X-t4 and Star adventurer 2i. mainly 18-55mm lens and Samyang 135mm f2
https://www.reysandu.com/deepskyBut Ideally, I would like to take photos as shown below. With the red popping out.
maybe the issue is the way I edit?

image01
Image02Anyways. Is this doable with my camera? I have heard that the longer the exposure the better. But I have found that I also intend to get more noise and light pollution with exposing for long hours.I recently also purchased this narrowband clip filter for my Fuji, and fingers crossed it does help. To sum it up, I am curious if I can acquire images as such with my gear, without having to by another moded camera.https://www.cyclopsoptics.com/astronomy-filters/stc-astro-duo-narrowband-clip-filter-fujifilm-x-series-free-shipping-free-lenspen/please let me know. Thanks team

andrea tasselli

Frequent contributor

Jun 7, 2021

I can't see anything wrong with your pictures as far as Ha emission goes. It looks like you need to improve on your flat-fielding a bit though and in general in how you process the colour information in some of the more broadband subjects. Dual narrowband will certainly bring out as much H-alpha is possible with the Fuji but at the expense of overall colour rendition. So, yes, there is room for improvement but no amount of filtering will compensate for the lack of data. A modded camera will still bring in more light in the red end of the spectrum than a conventional one, even for XTrans sensors.

sandug

Topic starter

Jun 7, 2021

Cheers for the reply @andrea tasselli
How do you mean by flat fielding? I use siril for stacking and shoot flats with white shirt on and pointing at the sky.
let me know please.

andrea tasselli

Frequent contributor

Jun 8, 2021

Siril is fine. White shirt less so. You need to take dusk fats, no shirt, point at the zenith or at square angle from where the Sun is setting, avoid clouds. 10/15 min after sunset will do in most circumstances but that depends where you are. Close to the equator probably 5 min after sunset is OK. Shot a set of 20/30 flats.

Andreas Zeinert

Jun 8, 2021

Hello,
it much depends on what level of details at what focal length you want to shoot.

If you want to take only wide fields, the unmodified camera is good. You might take a look at my recent image taken with a Fuji XT30 in the Cygnus region. You only need to boost the red regions a bit during the processing. However if you want to get more details of the nebulae, for instance at longer focal length, let's say > 135 mm, then a modified camera will get you more photons/s in the Ha and you will extract the details by reducing the photon noise.

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