Which dual NB filter is best for F/5? IDAS NBZ-II?

Oscarandrea tasselliClayton Ostler
24 replies520 views
Oscar avatar
I have been really indecisive between choosing an IDAS NBZ II, an L-Extreme F2, and an Antila ALP-T, for my F/5 Newt and 533mc pro.

All three are really good, but I want the best for my needs.

The filter I'm looking for has to have these things:

1. Best nebular transmission for F/5
2. No halos
3. Good contrast, enough contrast so that I can image in full moon.
4. Bandpasses not so narrow that it filters out so much color that it makes the nebula look fake; I just want a feeling of depth and realism in my images.
5. 2 inch mounted size

Maybe I'm slightly too strict?

I've been eyeing the IDAS NBZ II more than the others, but I'm still unsure which to buy.

Opinions and experiences wanted.
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Stjepan Prugovečki avatar
Have look to Antlia ALP-T . No halos, 
5nm pass. I am very happy with mine
John Stone avatar
Player One Anti-Halo

Link

3nm +/- 0.5 good to F4.8

you won’t find anything better
Oscar avatar
John Stone:
Player One Anti-Halo

Link

3nm +/- 0.5 good to F4.8

you won’t find anything better

Is it similar to the Antlia ALP-T?

I saw no halos in ALP-T images from multiple people.

I like the 3nm Player One filter, 170 coatings is cool, but $500 is a bit overpriced for me.

I would say, my budget is no more than $350.
Oscar avatar
Oh, wow, the images coming from the Player One filter are incredible.

Player One, sadly, overpriced their filter though.
Oscar avatar
I think I'm leaning towards buying the ALP-T.

The transmission doesn't look very good compared to the NBZ-I (according to some spectrum transmittance test graphs), but visually, the images look more contrasty, and also it seems like the ALP-T has less halos than the NBZ-I, but the NBZ-II might be better than the NBZ-I.

I'll wait one more day for opinions and recommendations.

If I'm not convinced by then to buy another filter, I'll just buy the ALP-T and hope it works good for me.

(edited)
andrea tasselli avatar
My L-eXtreme (not F2) is good down to f/4 and likely down to f/2.8 too. No major halos that I can see and it's way cheaper than the competition. The ALP-T would be a good choice but I'm not gonna spend that kind of money for a friggin' filter.
Oscar avatar
andrea tasselli:
My L-eXtreme (not F2) is good down to f/4 and likely down to f/2.8 too. No major halos that I can see and it's way cheaper than the competition. The ALP-T would be a good choice but I'm not gonna spend that kind of money for a friggin' filter.

They have a normal Extreme and an F2 Extreme, but they're both the same price.

So my question is: Does the F2 one have any disadvantage over the normal one? Why are they the same price if the F2 one is only an upgrade from the normal one?
andrea tasselli avatar
Not here or pretty much everywhere in Europe. It is nearly twice as much so not something to consider lightly. Usually filters for steep (fast) line cones have a shifted band-pass (as well as slightly reduce transmission, less in R more in B) so using on slower system would further reduce the transmission across the FOV.
Oscar avatar
andrea tasselli:
Not here or pretty much everywhere in Europe. It is nearly twice as much so not something to consider lightly. Usually filters for steep (fast) line cones have a shifted band-pass (as well as slightly reduce transmission, less in R more in B) so using on slower system would further reduce the transmission across the FOV.

So what I think I can comprehend you're saying is, a normal L-extreme would be better for F/5, than the F2 L-extreme?
andrea tasselli avatar
So what I think I can comprehend you're saying is, a normal L-extreme would be better for F/5, than the F2 L-extreme?


Yes.
Oscar avatar
Thanks!

Will buy the L-extreme.
Stjepan Prugovečki avatar
Thanks!

Will buy the L-extreme.

Extreme is a good filter. I sold mine though , because of not so nice halos around bright stars. If halos do not bother you , L-Extreme is not bad choice. I have ALP-T , and it is much better (no halos whatsoever) .
Oscar avatar
Stjepan Prugovečki:
Thanks!

Will buy the L-extreme.

Extreme is a good filter. I sold mine though , because of not so nice halos around bright stars. If halos do not bother you , L-Extreme is not bad choice. I have ALP-T , and it is much better (no halos whatsoever) .

Errrrr, mmmmm, okay, if my wallet allows it; but, I mean, not a very big jump in price...

Yeah, why not? Alright, ALP-T it is!

I especially would like imaging things like the Gamma Cas nebula, and I want to have the bright star in the frame.

No halos for me.
andrea tasselli avatar
I got Gamma Cass in the frame and no halo what-so-friggin'-ever. And not even with the L-eXtreme, it was with the L-eNhance which is more prone to produce halos (with red-orange stars). The point being that it's the combination of optics and filters that produces halos, not just the filter.
Concise
BFR avatar
Hello, I did a review of the Optolong L-para and compared it with the IDAs nbz-ii, which is a direct competitor of the Idas NBZ-II, and it has a lower price. It seems, also, that it could produce even less halos than the NBZ II. 

Here it is. I did the review together with the Kolari drop in empty filter, which is very interesting option for those who want to use astro filters on mirrorless cameras. Hope it helps.


Intro

The emergence of drop-in filter systems has revolutionized the use of astronomical filters on mirrorless cameras. However, until now, commercial options for this type of system were limited to IDAS filters, the only ones available with an integrated drop-in frame. But recently, a new product from Kolari Vision has emerged that has changed the landscape: the Empty Drop-In Filter, which allows any standard 2" astronomical filter to be inserted into it (and therefore also into the drop-in system). Although Kolari states on its website that this frame is designed for both its drop-in system and the Canon one, we have found that it also works perfectly with the Meike MK-EFTE-C drop-in adapter, which greatly expands its usefulness, allowing it to be used not only with Canon cameras but also with Sony and Nikon cameras. Thus, the Kolari Empty Frame is a very interesting option, as it allows you to use not only a huge number of astronomical filters, but also reuse the filters you already have for your dedicated cameras and/or telescopes.=imageParagraph



Kolari empty frame + 2" astro filter from Optolong

View: original size=imageParagraph


Kolari frame inserted in the Meike Drop in adapter Canon EF to Sony E mount
View: original size


Kolari empty frame

The construction of the Kolari blank frame is very good. It combines metal and high-quality plastic. Insertion into the drop-in system is snap-fit, ensuring it is securely fastened and sealed, preventing light from leaking in. The frame itself has a second threaded internal frame that serves to hold the inserted filter. This thread can be unscrewed and re-screwed once the filter is in place using an included tool that inserts into the two slots in the second frame. This tool is also useful, of course, for unscrewing and removing the glass from any standard 2" astronomical filter that has this attachment system, which most filters do. I have personally tested the Kolari blank frame alongside the Optolong L-Para filter, which I discuss below.=imageParagraph



Kolari empty frame
View: original size


Optolong L-Para

The Optolong L-Para is a new generation dual-band filter designed for color cameras. It captures Ha and OIII simultaneously, with a bandwidth of 10nm in both cases. It is, therefore, a quite restrictive filter, very powerful and effective in highlighting the reddish colors of the night sky and oxygen-rich regions, even with fast, wide-angle lenses. Regarding its transmittance, it is around 85% from f2 onwards and, according to Optolong, it also has very powerful contrast, anti-halo and light pollution emission blocking characteristics. With these characteristics, the L-Para is a direct competitor to the IDAS NBZ-II, which is considered, today, a reference dual-band filter. Regarding the Idas, and still on paper, the Optolong L-Para has slightly wider Oiii and Ha bands (10nm compared to 8nm for the Oiii and 10nm for the H-alpha of the NBZ-II). Personally, I bought it in 2" so that, as explained, I could remove the glass from its frame and place it in the empty Kolari frame, where it fits perfectly, and so that, in the future, if the need arises, I could use it in a filter-holder system for telescopes.=imageParagraph


Optolong L-Para 2
View: original size


Results and impressions

The results obtained with the L-Para have been very good. The filter has proven to be very effective at capturing H-alpha, blocking light pollution, and producing highly contrasted and saturated bicolor images (blueish/greenish and red). The images obtained are very similar to those obtained with the Idas NBZ-II, except for some nuances, which is why they will (almost) always have to be combined with RGB images. Compared to the Idas NBZ-II, the Optolong L-Para seems to contrast the image a little more, obtaining a little more structure in the Milky Way nebulae. At the same time, it has a bluer cast and seems to separate the reds of the H-Alpha somewhat more from the rest of the colors (blues and greens). It remains to be seen whether this is due to the "blue shift" (the effect of shifting the filters toward blue tones due to shooting at large apertures) or the filter's own cast. As for the H-alpha capture, it's very similar to that of the NBZ-II. If I had to say something, I'd say it might capture a bit less H-alpha than the NBZ-II at large apertures, but the difference, if it really exists, is minimal. The same goes for image quality, which is very similar in both filters, although it may (just may, again) be slightly superior in the case of those obtained with the NBZ-II. As for halos, I haven't noticed any; while I haven't noticed them with the NBZ-II either, the L-Para does seem to perform better in this regard, according to some reviews by other photographers that can be found on YouTube. Finally, and no less importantly, it's worth noting that the L-Para is currently significantly cheaper than the IDAS NBZ-II, making it a very interesting option considering its performance is very similar to that of the IDAS.=imageParagraph


Photograph obtained with the L-Para filter (above), at 11mm, 2.8, ISO 4000 and 2 minutes of exposure, and with basic exposure and white balance settings
View: original size


Comparison of images obtained with the L-Para filter (top) and the Idas NBZ-II filter (bottom), with uncorrected white balance (left) and corrected white balance (right). A single shot at 11mm, 2.8mm, ISO 4000, and a 2-minute exposure.=viewingOptions

View: original size


Conclusions

Kolari's empty drop-in frame represents an innovative and highly versatile solution, allowing the use of standard 2" astronomical filters on mirrorless cameras. Its compatibility is not limited to the Kolari drop-in system for Canon, or Canon's own, but also extends to the Meike MK-EFTE adapter, making it functional with Sony and Nikon cameras. The frame's build quality is remarkable, combining durable metal and plastic materials. The filter's screw-on attachment system, thanks to the included tool, facilitates filter mounting and removal, allowing for secure, sealed, and light-leak-free use. As for the Optolong L-Para filter, it has proven to be a serious competitor to the IDAS NBZ-II, the current dual-band reference. The L-Para delivers highly contrasted and saturated images and is especially effective in light-polluted conditions and with fast lenses. Although the L-Para's performance is very similar to that of the IDAS NBZ-II—with some differences—it is not surprising that the filter is not suitable for use with other lenses. subtle in contrast, saturation and color separation—, its considerably lower price makes it a very attractive option for astrophotographers looking to maximize results without breaking the bank.=imageParagraph


Final result of a panoramic photograph in which the sky is composed of photographs taken with the Optolong L-Para (a single shot per panel at 11mm, f2.8, 2 min, ISO 4000) in combination with RGB photographs (a single shot per panel at 11mm, 2.8, 30 sec, and ISO 800).
View: original size



Final result of a photograph in which the sky is formed by a photograph taken with the Optolong L-Para (at 11mm, f2.8, 2 min, iso 4000) in combination with an RGB photo (a single shot per panel at 11mm, 2.8, 30s and iso 800).
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Clayton Ostler avatar

I just purchased the new idas nbz ii and it was about 100$ more than the l-para, I am primarily using this in a bortle 7 location, so I was hoping to cut out a bit more LIPO with the tighter band pass. I am coupling this with an asi2600mc duo so going tighter than the idas nbz ii doesnt seem like a good solution as I want to keep my guide exposure numbers as low as possible (am5 loves lower exposure numbers) . I still have a shot to return and get the l-para, so if you have experience or opinions please chime in.

Clayton Ostler avatar

Well this must be a boring topic because I have zero comments. Sticking with the idas. I will try to share some results

Jan Erik Vallestad avatar

I can vouch for Scorpio filters. Incredible value and seem to handle stars perfectly well. I’ve got two of those filters myself and have been pleasantly surprised!

This image was partly done with one of them.

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Alex Nicholas avatar

This is going to be so subjective because everyone wants to think that they spent their money wisely and bought the best one that exists.

The L-Extreme and L-Ultimate are easily the most common, but I personally found the results to be sub-par compared to the IDAS NBZ-II. However, at the time, the Askar D1/D2 filter set had not yet been released, and once they were, at a considerably lower price point than the NBZ-II, the D1 Ha/OIII filter was SIGNIFICANTLY better than the NBZ-II in both contrast on full moon nights, and star halo suppression (and when I say that, what I mean to say is it has NO halos what so ever…)

Since buying the D1 and D2 combo, and having nothing but amazing things to say about them, Askar have released the E1 and E2, these are 3nm Ha/OIII and SII/OIII dual band filters, and if they retain the same quality control around halo control as they did with the D1 and D2, I wouldn’t for a moment hesitate to recommend those, sadly (or, happily for me I guess) I moved to mono again before they were released, and as such I have no first hand experience with them.

If budget is a concern, I have a friend with the Askar C1 and C2, filters, same incredible halo control, though the bandpass is far too wide for my personal liking…

I am considering getting a secondary camera (OSC) soon, and if I do, I will be buying the Askar D1 and D2 again… Though I’m not sure if they will work correctly with my new F/2.8 scope.

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andrea tasselli avatar
The Askar D1 isn't really that good with faster scopes, more so if they sport a large CO, and I have witnessed some dull halo in very long integrations (@ f/4). Can't even bother to test it at f/2.8. The ONE filter that does it all is the ALP-T, covering the Hb-OIII-Ha- SII range @ 5nm, expensive as it is it's well worth it. And work even at f/2.8 although here probably you want the fast-speed version (and they cost the same, so why not?). No halos, no nothing at all. Even on Alnitak. To be fair, neither the L-ENH or the L-Pro are giving halos on the Orion Belt either, something I cannot say for the Askar.
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Clayton Ostler avatar

Thanks for the rellies. Things to consider. The duo camera i am using has the main camera and guide cam on the same device so whatever I filter out additionally doesn't reach the guide cam. Im concerned with these tighter pass suggestions that im going to need 5 second guide exposures which would result in terrible rms numbers on the am5. I really need 1-1.5 seconds guide exposures. Any one tried guiding through these filters yet?

andrea tasselli avatar
That definitely depends on how large your scope is going to be, I can do 1s exposures through the ALP-T and still retrieve a good many stars (107mm @ f/2.8) but that also depends on where I'm pointing at, so in stars-deprived areas I'd imagine it will be quite tough to land enough of them on the guide sensor. This said, I don't guide through it (guide-scope here and forevermore).
Clayton Ostler avatar

andrea tasselli · Oct 31, 2025, 01:47 PM

That definitely depends on how large your scope is going to be, I can do 1s exposures through the ALP-T and still retrieve a good many stars (107mm @ f/2.8) but that also depends on where I'm pointing at, so in stars-deprived areas I'd imagine it will be quite tough to land enough of them on the guide sensor. This said, I don't guide through it (guide-scope here and forevermore).

I could always go back to using my guide scope, but the whole idea of the duo was to be lazy and compact. This is on a small refractor in bortle 7, so I am in a bad spot. hahahha

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Jan Erik Vallestad avatar

Clayton Ostler · Oct 31, 2025, 02:41 PM

andrea tasselli · Oct 31, 2025, 01:47 PM

That definitely depends on how large your scope is going to be, I can do 1s exposures through the ALP-T and still retrieve a good many stars (107mm @ f/2.8) but that also depends on where I'm pointing at, so in stars-deprived areas I'd imagine it will be quite tough to land enough of them on the guide sensor. This said, I don't guide through it (guide-scope here and forevermore).

I could always go back to using my guide scope, but the whole idea of the duo was to be lazy and compact. This is on a small refractor in bortle 7, so I am in a bad spot. hahahha

This is precisely the issue with trying to fit everything into a compact package like the duo cameras. It comes at a cost. That said, I’m not imaging from B7 so my advice wouldn’t help much at all. Neither do I use a duo camera.

My Scorpio dualband filters are 7nm which accomodates all my setups pretty well from the fastest to the slowest (a compromise). I also image from pretty dark skies. The filters cost me about USD 130 + shipping each (HaOiii & Sii/Oiii) and has no halos whatsoever from my findings. The maker also posted specific star tests on their FB page to ensure the quality of the filters with this in mind. They do offer 3nm and possibly 5nm as well, at a higher price point.

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