Overall questions

Hi,

1. 2" is wider. This means it works better for larger sensors, i.e. full frame DSLRs and similar. You will probably get a lot of vignetting if you try to use a 1.25 inch filter with a full frame DSLR. BUT 2" does not go with every telescope. If you have a 2" connection at the telescope, you can probably fit a 1.25" filter with an adaptor. The opposite is not true or at least does not make particular sense.

2. No. Even a kit lens (the one that comes with the DSLR) will outperform that telescope. By far. It does say it is a toy.

3. Best to just start with a cheap DSLR and see where that takes you. You don't even need a tripod at first.
Cheers,
Dimitris

Thanks for your kind reply! I was wanted to ask this questions for ages and finally got an answer! Based on your comment I won't buy that 'toy' from amazon. I better look for telephoto lenses. How about the H alpha filter? Will it produce much better quality than the modified one?

Thank you for kind reply Bradley Watson!

I forgot to tell you that I already have my camera which is canon m50, I also bought canon adapter to change ef-m mount to ef or ef-s mount. I already purchased move shoot move star tracker for longer exposure time. Thanks to both replies, I am now looking for canon telephoto lens like canon ef 70-200mm and I also found astronomik Ha EOS M clip in filter for more color depth in photos.

Thank you

David Redwine:
For any One-Shot-Color camera I recommend a duoband filter like the Optolong LeNhanced.

Yes, I saw that filter but I am not sure that is ok to used for canon mirrorless.

For any One-Shot-Color camera I recommend a duoband filter like the Optolong LeNhanced.
Yes, I saw that filter but I am not sure that is ok to used for canon mirrorless.

The Optolong does come in a clip version, which is probably what you want with your Canon.  I have the 1.25" Optolong for my Zwo 1600MC, but  I bought the cheaper Astronomic UHC clip filter instead for my Canon.

You can put a filter wheel on a Canon, but it requires some rather expensive parts.

Hello @Caramel_Waffle! My advice for you is to start as simple as possible! Use the equipment you already have and invest in learning how to process your data with a dedicated astrophotography software. This is a necessary investment regardless the equipment you will decide to invest in the future. You can search Astrobin for what can be achieved with unmodified DSLRs/mirrorless, camera lenses and a simple star tracker. Light pollution filters and Hα modifications costs in money and unnecessary complexity. Save the money for a future purchase like a sturdier mount and a short focal length telescope dedicated for astrophotography. Aaaaand maybe a dedicated camera. Welcome and Clear Skies!

Brian Boyle:
If you have reasonably dark skies, you might not even need an L-enhance.

Just a DSLR and a star-tracker.  I started with a Canon 6DMkII (not modified for AP), the stands 24-105mm lens, and a Star adventurer mount.

It was enough to get me hooked.

Personally I am not a fan of light pollution filters, even when you have severe light pollution. They mess up with the colors and the flat field. And might not even work well if the artificial lights are LED. I prefer capturing more hours and just do gradient removal.

But in my opinion, not even the star tracker is necessary (in the beginning). A lens at 24-35mm can go at least 30 seconds untracked which will result in some pretty impressive views of the Milky Way with a little stacking. Especially -but not necessarily- if you have dark skies.

This is from Bortle 7, completely untracked. I simply laid the camera (unmodified D3100 with the 35 mm f/1.8 prime) on its back and set the intervalometer to take repeated 30 second photos of whatever was at the Zenith. It is also a 8-bit workflow because I only had Gimp at the time, which is why it has almost no colour and very narrow dynamic range.

And this is about 300 4-second subs, taken from a dark location and processed with a 16 bit workflow on PixInsight. So, I will second @Die Launische Diva about the importance of investing in processing with a serious tool.

Of course the Star Adventurer is a very significant upgrade and could prove the only upgrade you'll ever need, if you decide you are into ultra wide field. But once someone learns the basics of processing with untracked ultra wide fields, maybe they decide they want to go narrower and deeper in which case they'd probably want to skip the Star Adventurer and go straight to a larger GoTo mount and a telescope.

We have a saying in computers, "premature optimization is the root of all evil". Don't get a L-enhance or a Hα filter or a modified DSLR or anything really, @Caramel_Waffle. Unless you know from your experience with your existing equipment that you need it and you know why you need that and not something else

. Keep it as simple as possible and take one step at a time. This is my advice

Cheers,
Dimitris

[*] e.g. the Hα filter that you mentioned is for capturing Hα. A special and quite challenging type of imaging. It is not for improving quality.