andythilo avatar
Hi

As we creep towards Galaxy season, I'm looking at optimizing my imaging with my new QHY268C. I currently have an Optolong CLS-CCD for broadband but wonder if I'll be better with a L-Pro? I've heard the CLS-CCD is better for more light polluted areas (I'm Bortle 4) and using it here kills data compared to the L-Pro?

Thanks

Andy
andrea tasselli avatar
I have the L-Pro and it works very well in my locale (I'm guessing Bortle 5/6) compared with more selective filters. But I'm doing more broadband stuff than others.
andythilo avatar
andrea tasselli:
I have the L-Pro and it works very well in my locale (I'm guessing Bortle 5/6) compared with more selective filters. But I'm doing more broadband stuff than others.

Thanks, I have the IDAS NBX Dual Band for nebulae etc.., this is purely for broadband galaxies, clusters etc..
Bruce Donzanti avatar
I had the CLS-CCD but sold it and now use the L-Pro for galaxies.  I am in Bortle 6 and it is much better (sharper, clearer image) than the CLS, in my opinion.   I am surprised you need any filter in Bortle 4- that is pretty dark skies.

Bruce
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andythilo avatar
Bruce Donzanti:
I had the CLS-CCD but sold it and now use the L-Pro for galaxies.  I am in Bortle 6 and it is much better (sharper, clearer image) than the CLS, in my opinion.   I am surprised you need any filter in Bortle 4- that is pretty dark skies.

Bruce

That’s the thing, do I just need a good UV/IR cut. Damn sight cheaper than a L-Pro
andrea tasselli avatar
With a Bortle 4 sky I wouldn't bother with any filter of any sort unless you use refractors, in which case a UV/IR filter would keep most unwanted things at bay.
andythilo avatar
andrea tasselli:
With a Bortle 4 sky I wouldn't bother with any filter of any sort unless you use refractors, in which case a UV/IR filter would keep most unwanted things at bay.

I need UV/IR to avoid star bloat as my camera has nothing, only anti reflection glass.
andrea tasselli avatar
andrea tasselli:
With a Bortle 4 sky I wouldn't bother with any filter of any sort unless you use refractors, in which case a UV/IR filter would keep most unwanted things at bay.

I need UV/IR to avoid star bloat as my camera has nothing, only anti reflection glass.

Neither has mine yet I hardly notice anything different with or without when I use it on my Maksutovs. I only use UV/IR cut on my refractor(s).
Mark Bailey avatar
andrea tasselli:
I only use UV/IR cut on my refractor(s).


I am thinking about getting a OSC camera to go with my TEC-140 and am not clear is a cutoff UV/IR is required. Sounds like it is a good thing. -Mark
andrea tasselli avatar
Mark Bailey:
andrea tasselli:
I only use UV/IR cut on my refractor(s).


I am thinking about getting a OSC camera to go with my TEC-140 and am not clear is a cutoff UV/IR is required. Sounds like it is a good thing. -Mark

The TEC 140 is a well corrected APO, with just a shade of sphero-chromatism at the very end of the violet. I wouldn't worry unless you camera is highly sensitive beyond 700nm. It wouldn't hurt either though. Still the risk weird off axis reflections do exist. I'm using a ASI294 Pro and I can't say whether adding a UV/IR cut makes anything worse or better if the system is purely apochromatic or reflective.
Mark Bailey avatar
Good to know, Andrea, thank you!
Ulli_K avatar
I had a CLS Filter but could not manage the colours. With an L-enhance that’s much easier. My Sky is Bortle 4-5 and I can double the exposure time (8min instead of 4min subs) with the filter
Nicholas Gialiris avatar
For Bortle 4 skies (lucky you!) with QHY 268C (I have the 168C) just use UV/IR filter in front of the camera to color balance by cutting off the IR light. I'm in a Bortle 8 and use the L-Pro for broadband targets and works really well as less aggressive than other stricter CLS/LPS filters to keep star/galaxy color truer and easier to color balance in post processing.

I also have the L-Enhance which is geared for narrow-band emission (Ha, OIII, Hb) nebulae, not galaxies.
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