I’m trying to mate the ZWO ASI2600MM Pro and ZWO 7-Position Electronic Filter Wheel for 2" filters. I have seen that some people have bolted the camera tilt plate directly to the filter housing. While I can see how this will work, this configuration would be much harder to transport.On the other hand, I can use an M42M-M54M adapter. This would allow me to easily separate the camera and filter while adding 2mm to the back focus.Are either or both of these methods recommended to connect these components? Is one preferred? Is there an alternate preferred method?Please advise.Alicja
Mating the ZWO ASI2600MM Pro and ZWO 7-Position Filter Wheel
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Hi Alicja,
Taking the filter wheel on and off is an invitation to put a lot of dirt on the filters … once you have this together you want it as completely sealed as possible to prevent this from happening. I am sure you can find a container to carry the entire unit assembled. Good idea to block off the opening when carrying it.
Best,
Tony
Taking the filter wheel on and off is an invitation to put a lot of dirt on the filters … once you have this together you want it as completely sealed as possible to prevent this from happening. I am sure you can find a container to carry the entire unit assembled. Good idea to block off the opening when carrying it.
Best,
Tony
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Hi, Alicja - You might have seen this page before:
https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/tutorials/asi2600-guide-4-connection-methods-to-get-55mm-back-focus-length/
If you want to use a newer OAG as well as the filter wheel, then it is better to bolt it on if you want to keep your imaging train at 55mm for compatability. The newer OAG's need a tilt plate so you would have 2 plates on and be at 60mm.
Regardless of the OAG, I agree with Tony's comments above. I have gotten used to the filter wheel being bolted on... and it is definitely better to just keep it together to keep dust out.
Ken
https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/tutorials/asi2600-guide-4-connection-methods-to-get-55mm-back-focus-length/
If you want to use a newer OAG as well as the filter wheel, then it is better to bolt it on if you want to keep your imaging train at 55mm for compatability. The newer OAG's need a tilt plate so you would have 2 plates on and be at 60mm.
Regardless of the OAG, I agree with Tony's comments above. I have gotten used to the filter wheel being bolted on... and it is definitely better to just keep it together to keep dust out.
Ken
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I also keep my filter wheel and camera together (they are screwed together). I have a cap for the filter wheel side to keep dust out when transporting.
I also ditched the supplied tilt plate. it is difficult to use because you have to take camera off to get to adjustment screws. Even if you place the tilt plate so you can get access to screws the adjustment is very difficult. I use a gerd neumann ctu for tilt adjustment. I think much better.
I also ditched the supplied tilt plate. it is difficult to use because you have to take camera off to get to adjustment screws. Even if you place the tilt plate so you can get access to screws the adjustment is very difficult. I use a gerd neumann ctu for tilt adjustment. I think much better.
Concise
Thank you. Not sure I understand the statement about "get to adjustment screws", if I bolt the camera to the housing of the filter wheel, what adjustments do I need to do? Sorry in advance, I am a newbie at imaging with astro dedicated camera. My previous experience is with DSLR.
BTW, in this imaging train the scope is William Optics RedCat 71 and William Optics 32mm for guiding.
Alicja
BTW, in this imaging train the scope is William Optics RedCat 71 and William Optics 32mm for guiding.
Alicja
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I, too, have my ASI2600MM and my 7-position filter wheel bolted together, Alicja. I think it's a much more stable, and potentially dust-free, setup. Once you get used to working with them both together as a unit, it really isn't a big deal to move them between scopes. I move mine between a refractor (Askar 107PHQ) and my SCT (EdgeHD 8) routinely and don't have any problems.
Hope that helps!
Greg
Hope that helps!
Greg
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The included screws are how I attached the 2600MM to the filter wheel as well. But in my case I fabricated a ring from 0.03" gasket paper to go between the front of the camera and the back of the FW housing. There is nothing in there that fills any gap which may let stray outside light creep onto the sensor. I used a compass to make a ring with the correct OD and ID and then used a hole punch where needed for the screws. If you use 2" threaded filters, also put in the tiny black screws intended for the unmounted filter flanges into their threaded holes to stop any light rays from going through them and possibly create unwanted patterns on your sensor.
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ZWO has released a new tilt plate adapter that allows you to adjust it while the camera is still attached to the scope. IMNSHO this is the way it should have always been.
a
Also, if you remove the push/pull screws from the adapter, the camera will come right off (although I also recommend never taking it off). Also, I just yesterday saw that the new ZWO EFW comes with “gaskets” that go between the camera and the EFW. The only reason I can see for them to do this is light leak issues (which I have had)
Alan
a
Also, if you remove the push/pull screws from the adapter, the camera will come right off (although I also recommend never taking it off). Also, I just yesterday saw that the new ZWO EFW comes with “gaskets” that go between the camera and the EFW. The only reason I can see for them to do this is light leak issues (which I have had)
Alan
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Alicja Lombard:
Thank you. Not sure I understand the statement about "get to adjustment screws", if I bolt the camera to the housing of the filter wheel, what adjustments do I need to do? Sorry in advance, I am a newbie at imaging with astro dedicated camera. My previous experience is with DSLR.
BTW, in this imaging train the scope is William Optics RedCat 71 and William Optics 32mm for guiding.
Alicja
Unless you have problems with stars being deformed, Alicja, you don't have to worry about the tilt plate (black plastic piece at the front of the camera). You can just leave it on and bolt the camera to the filter wheel with it in place. That's the way I have mine set up.
And the newer ASI2600's come with a couple of round paper gaskets. I put one of those between the front of the camera and the rear of the EFW housing to block light, but I'm not sure you really even need to do that.
Greg
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I can see the advantage of what you propose - the main disadvantage is moving the filters further from the sensor & risking vignetting, but you have 2” filters, so should be fine.
I would have done it myself if I had 2” filters, but I have 36mm filters so am bolting the EFW directly to the camera body, not even to the tilt plate, to minimize vignetting.
I would have done it myself if I had 2” filters, but I have 36mm filters so am bolting the EFW directly to the camera body, not even to the tilt plate, to minimize vignetting.
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I have had the same issue and tried many options, but there seems to be only one good result that keeps dust out, backfocus in line and space for an OAG: bolt it together directly.
Backfocus really is the limiting factor especially if you want to squeeze in an OAG - the leaves no extra space not to bolt the EFW to the camera - but at least it is possible to get it all in 55mm!
The windfall benefit of keeping dust out by having a sealed system is also very appreciated :-)
Arny
Backfocus really is the limiting factor especially if you want to squeeze in an OAG - the leaves no extra space not to bolt the EFW to the camera - but at least it is possible to get it all in 55mm!
The windfall benefit of keeping dust out by having a sealed system is also very appreciated :-)
Arny
I too bolt the filter wheel directly to the camera. I found the tilt plate to be a nuisance, so I removed it and adjusted back focus accordingly. I haven't found sensor tilt to be an issue on my copy of the camera.
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