Shooting SHO (Hubble Palette) with DSLR?

Additionally, if narrowband imaging (in SHO) can achieve usable results; would I then ditch my light pollution filter or use it in addition to the SHO filters?

You'd get the very best resuits with a cooled monochrome camera and filter wheel. Prices have come down.

Thanks!

I think I’ll get the filters/wheel first and experiment a bit before acquiring the camera... but don’t doubt that experience will make me want the cooled monochrome sooner than later.

I don't know of any way to use a filter wheel with a DSLR.

To your original question, the only way to do a "Hubble Palette" with a DSLR would be to get separate SII, Ha, and OIII clip in filters and shot with the filters separately.  That way you have separated the SII and Ha from each other show you can combine in the SHO (Hubble) palette.  But a much simpler solution is to get a multi-band filter like the STC Duo or the quad or tri-band filters OPT and others sell.  These will not to SHO but they will do something like HOO or SI/Ha-O-O.  Since they pass more than one band at the same time, you would only need to shoot one sequence instead of three.

The problem with Hubble Palette and a color camera is that the SII and Ha both end up in the red channel of the color image.

There are two other problems that a DSLR presents when shooting narrowband:

1) Unless the camera has been modified, there is a filter to block the Ha bandwidth (and probably the SII as well).  So this will force you to shoot a lot longer and sacrifice the strongest signals in the emission nebula.
2) Narrowband generally requires pretty long exposure times, and since the DSLR is not cooled dark noise can grow quite strong and be a problem.

All of this is the reason that it's recommended to use a cooled, mono camera and filter wheel.

But if you don't want to invest too much, get a multi-band filter, point it at a pretty bright narrowband object and have some fun!

I really like the photos of Vincent with Dslr and clip filter:

https://www.astrobin.com/users/Vincent_Caron/

Kevin Morefield:
My advice is go for the mono.  Then you can truly to the the channel narrowband mixes and you can use luminance in your broad band to improve signal to noise and/or speed up the capture time.

Sounds like a plan. Looking forward to making that upgrade!

Yes, you still need the filters. The sensor modification actually _removes_ the filter from your DSLR that blocks most of the deep red wavelengths (including the Ha/S2 light). This allows the sensor to now see it. However, if you want to isolate it (like you do for the SHO emissions), then you need to use the Ha filter.

Having written that, using individual narrowband filters on a color camera sensor is pretty inefficient. The dual bandpass filters (like the offerings from Optolong, Askar, Antlia, etc) are far better choices for a DSLR.

The cost of a set of pair of Ha/Oiii and Sii/Oiii is pretty close to a set of decent filters for a mono camera. I have seen promising results from the ZWO and SVBony Ha/Oiii dual band filter and they cost half of what many other filters cost. It depends on where you see you imaging going. If you are going to stay with OSC then by all means buy the good filters, if mono is in your near future, buy a less expensive dual band.