Should I shoot LLLRGBLLLRGBLLLRGB or is it better to shoot R15*15G*15B and the rest L to get most detail?
Mono comet LRGB, tips?
Alternating every filter every shot (eg, LRGBLRGBLRGB…) would allow better isolation and rejection of stars/comet during stacking. If you want to prioritize L you could potentially do something like LRLGLB, repeat. The 'risk' with doing RRRRR…GGGG…etc is changing sky conditions (incoming clouds) as well as likely less efficient rejection of moving stars or moving comet, depending on what you're stacking.
Personally, I find the use of a Luminance filter to be of dubious use for this object (extracting L from a combined RGB has been about as useful), but I am also using a small F/5 refractor in Bortle 5 skies. Michael Jaeger's posts show incredible tail detail in Luminance, but he has much greater light gathering power and speed with his 11" F/2 RASA
Personally, I find the use of a Luminance filter to be of dubious use for this object (extracting L from a combined RGB has been about as useful), but I am also using a small F/5 refractor in Bortle 5 skies. Michael Jaeger's posts show incredible tail detail in Luminance, but he has much greater light gathering power and speed with his 11" F/2 RASA
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If you run a focusing routine each time you change filter, then the second solution is much better, as you will end up with much more frames: the telescope will spend its time imaging rather than focusing.
Now with filter offsets it should be possible to switch filters without running a focus event, except it seems, at least with Nina, refocus is triggered at each filter change (if there is a way to bypass this, please let me know, as the first strategy then becomes viable).
BlackRig
Now with filter offsets it should be possible to switch filters without running a focus event, except it seems, at least with Nina, refocus is triggered at each filter change (if there is a way to bypass this, please let me know, as the first strategy then becomes viable).
BlackRig
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If you run a focusing routine each time you change filter, then the second solution is much better, as you will end up with much more frames: the telescope will spend its time imaging rather than focusing.
Now with filter offsets it should be possible to switch filters without running a focus event, except it seems, at least with Nina, refocus is triggered at each filter change (if there is a way to bypass this, please let me know, as the first strategy then becomes viable).
BlackRig
*** I am using filter offsets so it will only refocus if HFR is increased by 10%. I'm currently doing BLGLRL and repeat***
Now with filter offsets it should be possible to switch filters without running a focus event, except it seems, at least with Nina, refocus is triggered at each filter change (if there is a way to bypass this, please let me know, as the first strategy then becomes viable).
You bypass it by not setting it to re-AF on filter change. I use focus with offsets in NINA as a matter of course and it works fine. The full routine, running with the L filter, only happens when I want it to (e.g. HFR changes).
I'm a fan of LRLGLB for this comet when using filter offsets personally. Lots of movement in the ion tail and it's moving fast so lum really helps with the shorter exposures.
There's no wrong way to go about it though.
Good luck!
There's no wrong way to go about it though.
Good luck!
https://www.astrobin.com/w5bbvo/
just shot RGB as usual and then create starless RGB and star RGB with a star removal tool on the calibrated files (ideally starxterminator since it has a batch mode).
stack the aligned comet and star file seperatedly and then recombine them in the last step. This can be time consuming but the result is good.
just shot RGB as usual and then create starless RGB and star RGB with a star removal tool on the calibrated files (ideally starxterminator since it has a batch mode).
stack the aligned comet and star file seperatedly and then recombine them in the last step. This can be time consuming but the result is good.
Roman Pearah:
You bypass it by not setting it to re-AF on filter change.
Thanks a lot, now that you have given the solution it makes perfect sense. I will try it as soon as the weather allows.
So to the OP's original question, the first solution proposed, ie alternating filter every shot, with filter offets properly set, and "no re-AF on filter change" would be the best.
Thanks!
Does brand matter for LRGB filters?
I saw a post somewhere that Antlia SHO filters were good but their LRGB filters weren't? I have both and I am very happy with the 3nm SHO but wasn't sure if the LRGB filters were good or if I could do better, I know Chroma is the most expensi...
Discusses LRGB filter selection and quality, directly relevant to shooting strategy.