I have a Radian triad for everything else, but its not great for these.
Best 2" filter, Bortle 7 urban, galaxy and reflection/dark nebula. OSC camera
I use the L-PRO with good results with similar sky quality. Obviously it is no substitute to a darker sky.
I'm in a Bortle 8 area very close to Bortle 9, and I've had good luck with the Baader IR-Cut Moon & Skyglow Neodymium filter. I'm using the ZWO ASI294MC one shot color camera on a 7" Maksutov-Cassegrain telescope. I typically take 30 second exposures at 120 gain and have had some good results on galaxies. I know many on here use the Optolong filters. Someday I'll give one of those a try too.
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Hello ,
The Baader IR-Cut Moon & Skyglow Neodymium is very light compared to all optolong L-… thus white balance is perfect with small light pollution. I use it every time except for faint nebulas. Pay attention that thickness is 1mm (not classic 2mm) for optical path.
CS
The Baader IR-Cut Moon & Skyglow Neodymium is very light compared to all optolong L-… thus white balance is perfect with small light pollution. I use it every time except for faint nebulas. Pay attention that thickness is 1mm (not classic 2mm) for optical path.
CS
andrea tasselli:
I use the L-PRO with good results with similar sky quality. Obviously it is no substitute to a darker sky.
Second that!
Alternatively,you could also try shooting a LOT of 30" exposures without any filter with your OSC camera and try PixInsιght's Background extraction tools after integrating your data.
For DSO things and nebula I use a ZWO ASI294MC Pro camera and an Optolong L-Extreme filter. Those go through a WO GT71 scope riding on an iOptron HEM27 mount. Around here it is bortle 5-6 and I tend to use guided 5 to 10 minute exposures for capture. This is one of the more recent images that came from that combo:
https://www.astrobin.com/tnrmn5/
https://www.astrobin.com/tnrmn5/
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Ed Dixon:
For DSO things and nebula I use a ZWO ASI294MC Pro camera and an Optolong L-Extreme filter. Those go through a WO GT71 scope riding on an iOptron HEM27 mount. Around here it is bortle 5-6 and I tend to use guided 5 to 10 minute exposures for capture. This is one of the more recent images that came from that combo:
https://www.astrobin.com/tnrmn5/
Good, thank you!
I shoot from a Bortle 6 zone and for broadband targets I don't use any filter, just a UV/IR cut filter because my camera doesn't have one already installed. I found even the L-Pro disappointing on galaxies compared to just using no filter at all.
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Bortle 7 OSC and L-Pro here. Works great for me. I use the ASI2600MC Pro and I recently shot M33 with 300s subs at 250 Gain. Needed 26hrs to get a good result. Just remember that using the L-Pro in light polluted skies to capture galaxies will require a lot of integration time, minimum 10hrs.
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This is like a mission impossible, Bortle 7 is a bit possible, but i live under Bortle 8/9 i feel it is 9 because there are like 3 clear LED streetlights exposing my yard where i do imaging from, and all said that LED is a forbidden resource of LP, so no filter at any mean can help, i bought IDAS D2 as they mentioned it can suppression of LED a bit, well, i tried it on two clusters and they were awful to process for colors although they are clear.
Now my only plan or method to battle the light pollution in my area is to take so many exposure/light frames and then see if that is better than any LP filter, i am talking about broadbanding here only as the topic here, while for Broadbanding i can do it easily even with 5-10 minutes exposures not a problem.
Now my only plan or method to battle the light pollution in my area is to take so many exposure/light frames and then see if that is better than any LP filter, i am talking about broadbanding here only as the topic here, while for Broadbanding i can do it easily even with 5-10 minutes exposures not a problem.
I just posted this M33 image which is 2h from a Bortle 7 location, with just a UV IR cut filter : https://www.astrobin.com/l61xqv/
The noise is visible in the larger version. From that image I think need to get around 10 hours or more to get a more acceptable signal to noise ratio.
The noise is visible in the larger version. From that image I think need to get around 10 hours or more to get a more acceptable signal to noise ratio.