Doversole83 avatar

Gear:

  • Scope: StellaLyra Carbon 6" f4 Newtonian with Starizona Nexus Reducer (f/3 effective)

  • Camera: ZWO ASI2600MC (APS-C)

  • Focuser: Stock Rack & Pinion (Drawtube protrudes slightly into the light path)

The Problem:

Despite extensive hardware and software troubleshooting, I am seeing a persistent, asymmetrical "glow" or non-linear gradient in my stacked masters. It manifests as a broad "mottled" haze that automated background extraction tools (GraXpert AI, MARS/MGC) fail to model correctly.

I live in a rural area with no street lights.


📷 WBPP.pngWBPP.png📷 image.pngimage.png

What I’ve already addressed:

  1. Hardware: Upgraded the imaging train to M54 adapters to eliminate M42-sized bottlenecks.

  2. Internal Reflections: Blackened the silver rack-and-pinion teeth with Tamiya XF-1 matte paint, added a black shower cap at the back end of the scope and added a black sock around the focuser. I tried rotating the camera by 90 deg. The pattern is moving by not strictly to the angle of the camera.

    📷 PXL_20260501_101731995.jpgPXL_20260501_101731995.jpg

  3. Software: Tested three stacking methods in PixInsight:

    • WBPP with Local Normalization

    • WBPP without Local Normalization

    • FastIntegration (to rule out mathematical "hallucinations")

    • Background extraction using GraXpert or Multiscale Gradient Correction provide the same result.

  4. Flats: I tried a flat pannel and sky flats taken after sunset. No difference.

Observations:

The artifact persists across all integration methods (including FastIntegration), suggesting a physical optical origin. Attached a contour plot of the master flat.
📷 image.pngimage.png

The Question:

Has anyone experienced similar issues? Any clue to resolve this issue please?

Many thanks!!

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andrea tasselli avatar

I only had similar issues with my f/4 due to light leaks from both the back and the focuser. Have you tried imaging without the corrector or with other correctors? Besides, your black paint isn’t black enough. I am sure I can flatten your images despite WBPP, So if you want you can post a link to your raws and/or the finally stacked integrations.

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Dirk Bausch avatar

@andrea tasselli's f/4 light-leak diagnostic matches what I've seen on similar setups — that's a useful direction.

@OP — if you're open to sharing the calibrated subs (pre-StarAlignment), I'd be happy to also run them through the pre-stack pipeline I'm developing (thread #236119) as an additional data point. Combined with whatever Andrea produces manually, you'd have two independent approaches on the same data — an expert manual fix and an automated algorithmic one. That kind of side-by-side is genuinely useful for understanding what each method does and where each is strong.

Honest caveat though: as Andrea points out, the reflection component would ideally be addressed in hardware first. BG correction (manual or automated) can mask the symptom but not solve the underlying optical issue.

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Walter Leonhard Schramböck avatar

Many focussers (if not most of them) have a gap between the focusser tube and the focusser body. This often is a light leak - even on expensive models. The biggest gap on my rigs is present on a Baader Steeltrack, I bought a wide hair tie and placed it over this gap to reduce light leaking.

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Werner Stumpferl avatar

I made the same experiance as Walter. Also with a Baader Steeltrack and I solved it in same way. Since then I had no problems with a light leak from there.

📷 1000035541.png1000035541.png

Doversole83 avatar

Thank you all for your answers.

I heard about light leaks close to the mirror or the focuser. I have already added a black shower cap on the mirror cell and a pair of black socks around the focuser.
📷 image.pngimage.png


Where can it come from ?

Happy for you to tale a look at the subframes. Here is a link to the callibrated and the debayered subframes: https://u.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=kZP0BU5ZIsbQDwKe3HB6IXHumGMmH43Y09b7

Thanks again.

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andrea tasselli avatar

Take darks during daytime (but not too bright a daytime!) will soon tell what is going on…

Doversole83 avatar

Here is a 120s dark taken during daytime. Can't see anything in there…

📷 image.pngimage.pngI added the dark fit files into the folder: https://u.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=kZP0BU5ZIsbQDwKe3HB6IXHumGMmH43Y09b7

andrea tasselli avatar

That’s good, it means no external light leaks. The bad news is that it’s likely an internal reflection of sorts in the optical train.

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andrea tasselli avatar

Are you sure those images have been calibrated at all. Because either they aren’t or the calibration is wrong. Maybe supply the raw uncalibrated together with master flats & darks

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Doversole83 avatar

andrea tasselli · May 15, 2026, 04:50 PM

Are you sure those images have been calibrated at all. Because either they aren’t or the calibration is wrong. Maybe supply the raw uncalibrated together with master flats & darks

Thanks again for having a look.
I added the uncallibrated raws in the folder as well as the masterflat and masterdark.

So you think it’s not an external light leak, but more of an internal reflection? Where could that come from? Could the Nexus be faulty? I haven’t tried the scope with another corrector or no corrector. Next clear night I suppose I could do that.

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andrea tasselli avatar

I think the most likely culprit is a wrong calibration. Can you check that EVERYTHING has exactly the same gain and offset and that you calibrated the flats by either bias or flatdarks subtraction?

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andrea tasselli avatar

Here is the best I could do so far. I can do better if I crop the borders but let’s leave that for later.

📷 image.pngimage.png

andrea tasselli avatar

Also, parasitic lights could be another cause. Your gain is set to 0.243 for the light and the offset to 50. I can’t check the offset of the master dark and flat but the gain is the same. Are you using a dew shield at all?

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Doversole83 avatar

andrea tasselli · May 15, 2026, 06:03 PM

Also, parasitic lights could be another cause. Your gain is set to 0.243 for the light and the offset to 50. I can’t check the offset of the master dark and flat but the gain is the same. Are you using a dew shield at all?

I use an ASIAIR. You dont set the offset, just the gain. It should be gain 100.

I use a dew shield (it's wet England!).

I have tried 2 different dew shield, same result.

The master flat I shared was done with a flat panel and dark flats

I also tried with some flats taken after sunset, they were longer (4s) and I didn't use any dark flats. Again same results. I don't usually tend to use darks with this camera but to find the origin of the issue I started to take some anyway.

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andrea tasselli avatar

Check the offset is the same for all the darks and flats, especially the flats. Different offset between the calibration frames and the light frames can results in wrong calibration.

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Tony Gondola avatar

Doversole83 · May 15, 2026, 06:11 PM

I have tried 2 different dew shield, same result.

The point with the dew shields is that you must use the same one for the flats that you used for the lights. Again, going with the mantra that with flats, everything must be the same except for the gain.

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andrea tasselli avatar

Not quite what I would expect from a B4 site, so there is the last take doing the calibration myself. Still thinking something is quite wrong with the flats.

📷 integration1.jpgintegration1.jpgNote the dark bar in the middle of the frame. It shouldn’t be there if I had just additive signal.

Doversole83 avatar

PXL_20260515_150407432.jpg

Would the focuser tube intrusion inside the scope explain these artifacts? Do I need to shorten the focuser?

andrea tasselli avatar

Make a cardboard mask to hide the outer portion of the entrance so that the focuser isn’t in the light path and see if that solves the issue but I had the same problem with the focuser sticking into the light path and that didn’t cause that sort of problem.

Tony Gondola avatar

Doversole83 · May 15, 2026, 10:42 PM

PXL_20260515_150407432.jpg

Would the focuser tube intrusion inside the scope explain these artifacts? Do I need to shorten the focuser?

Usually what you’ll see emanating from each bright star will be a broad fan of light 180 degrees opposite each other, one of which lines up with the focuser position. It’s important to remember that anything that intrudes on that path will cause unwanted diffraction effects. Unfortunately, to get enough back focus most Newtonian astrographs tend to use tubes that are too small in diameter so it’s hard to avoid the focuser issue without very careful design. It’s a dance between tube diameter, focal plane position, secondary size and field illumination.

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Dirk Bausch avatar

Looking at your data I also think its mainly a flat field problem. I had a similar issue with my Newtonian and a Baader focuser. The small gap causes light to leak onto the camera which produces uneven flat fields. I didn’t see it at the time on my flat field files as the difference is visually not distinct. I also couldn’t see anything on my calibrated frames. Using these flats it caused “funny” waves in my images after stacking, similar to what you see.

What you can try to do to visualize the defect is to use MultiScale transformation in PI and then look through the scales individually. The defect showed up in the higher scale data in my case even on single corrected subs.

I solved the problem by ensuring that no light leaks through to the camera during daytime.

Best,

Dirk

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