A Few iOptron HAE43 setup questions

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Bruce Donzanti avatar

I just started setting up a travel rig with a newly purchased iOptron HAE43C mount. It connected immediately to NINA, but I have a few housekeeping questions. BTW- no manual came with it. So, I had to download but it still did not address my questions.

📷 IMG_4484.jpegIMG_4484.jpegThree questions from this image:

1) How critical is it to get the center of gravity of the scope in the middle of the mount? If it is, I need to somehow move it more forward, but the FW will hit the altitude adjustment knob. Of course, I can manually rotate it, but that doesn’t help if I want it in that position to take an image.

2) There appears to be an extra silver peg below the altitude adjustment knob in the mount. Any idea what that is for?

📷 IMG_4486.jpegIMG_4486.jpegThis was in a separate plastic bag. What is it for?

I’d appreciate any help for my questions.

Bruce

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Tony Gondola avatar

The better the load is balanced the less work the mount will have to do. I know you don’t have to balance with HD mounts but it certainly can’t hurt. From looking at your setup it seems like you could really benefit from a pier extension. It looks like that if you are shooting in certain declinations near the zenith, you might not be able to reach the meridian before the filter wheel hits the tripod. It seems the pointing the wheel up when in the home position would be the best position overall.

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Bruce Donzanti avatar

Yeah- I always balance the load in my observatory setups. I also have the extension pier- need to put it on and, I agree, to flip the FW 180 degrees. Also think I will use rings and risers to get it a bit higher. I just don’t like things being that close to the alt knob.

ahh…that is the WiFi antenna

Jeff Reitzel avatar

Hi Bruce,

Congrats on the HAE43C. I think you will really like it. I see you figured out you were talking about the wifi antennae and connection. Just a note on the wifi. It can be changed to station mode if you ever have the need to connect it through another wifi access point to control multiple pieces of gear on a single network. It’s a hidden perk I can help with if needed. I run multiple scopes on my HAE43EC and completely understand your need to roughly balance against spacing conflicts with the base of the mount or azimuth adjustment screws. With my longer 5 inch refractor (SVX127D) rough balance helps a lot to lessen strain on the motors. On the lighter rigs it makes no difference for me so I place them for best clearance. To address the clearance issue I use risers and/or pier extensions to help as needed. I also limit my rotator to operate in only 180 degrees of rotation when I use it to further prevent collision conflicts. I do have an older version of the HAE43EC that requires use of the Hand Control but also allows me to install custom through mount cables. I don’t think through mount cables like this are possible on the newer B and C variants, but may be worth checking on. I included a picture when I was first setting up my CAT91 on my HAE43EC if it helps. I love these mounts and have had a great experience with them. I have a HAE69EC as well to run my EDGE HD11 or for use at outreach star parties. In the outreach cases I use a Pegasus Smarteye. I control both the HAE43EC or 69EC mount and Smarteye together on the pegasus wifi network using SkySafari. This requires changing the wifi mode previously mentioned but is a very sweet setup for public outreach.

📷 CAT91 HAE43EC.jpgCAT91 HAE43EC.jpgCS,

Jeff

PS: The extra silver peg may be the pin that allows you to set different altitude ranges depending on your location on Earth or if you need to run in Alt-Az mode. Hard to tell in your picture.

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Bruce Donzanti avatar

Hi Jeff

Fantastic!!!

Will send you a PM soon for a few more questions.

Thanks!

Jim Case avatar

Bruce,

I have been using my HAE43C for about a year with several different telescopes with the mini-pier, lite-rock tripod, and a filter wheel. While a rough balance is useful, for the reasons stated above, my AT115 is too long if balanced to clear the tripod at the meridian. I asked Ioptron if a second mini-pier would work and they said yes, but also suggested that moving the telescope in a poorly balanced fashion was acceptable. It has worked, especially when I position the filter wheel up as suggested above, but it may result in some rotation issues when framing a target. I decided not to add the second mini-pier due to my concerns about becoming top heavy.

Jim

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Bruce Donzanti avatar

Jim Case · Mar 14, 2026, 09:09 PM

Bruce,

I have been using my HAE43C for about a year with several different telescopes with the mini-pier, lite-rock tripod, and a filter wheel. While a rough balance is useful, for the reasons stated above, my AT115 is too long if balanced to clear the tripod at the meridian. I asked Ioptron if a second mini-pier would work and they said yes, but also suggested that moving the telescope in a poorly balanced fashion was acceptable. It has worked, especially when I position the filter wheel up as suggested above, but it may result in some rotation issues when framing a target. I decided not to add the second mini-pier due to my concerns about becoming top heavy.

Jim

Thanks, Jim! That is very helpful information.

SonnyE avatar

I think balance is very important, and you can mount your FW towards the side, top or anywhere away from a strike zone. And run your mount through any and all contortions it may do in use. You must avoid any strikes of your moving equipment.

If you are worried about ascetics, consider this: In the dark, nobody is going to notice. Function is always the most important thing. If you run your mount off balance, you will shorten the mechanical life of your mount.

That won’t bother me, but it might bother your happiness.

And tidy up your drooping wiring. Wiring hanging helter-skelter is inviting tangling and problems. I use Spiral Wrap and get all that well controlled. If your wires are all dangling, they will affect your balance to some degree.

Your filters won’t care what orientation they are in, as long as they are aligned to your cameras sensor. Most of us use round filters. Rotating them by turning your filter to a safer position won’t matter.

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