Advice needed on hard printing of a specific image

8 replies194 views
kvastronomer avatar

I’m looking for an advice to order a print of an image that you can hang on a wall.

I wanted to print few images from time to time as a gift but did not feel like printing a version of traditional DSO object would be a unique enough. There are millions better renditions of the same object you can find online. This time I have something unique, one of.

Given this specific image what type of print would you order and where from?

Resolution is 12632x11005 pixels.

What max size would look good? And what medium would you recommend?

I have a PNG file which is around 150MB. Do I need to save it somehow specially or differently before submitting for a print?

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks

📷 Abstract Expressionism: The Sublime Violence of LightAbstract Expressionism: The Sublime Violence of Light

https://app.astrobin.com/i/76hrz3/

danieldh206 avatar

For printing you need the ICC profile of the printer and to calibrate your monitor to AdobeRGB. This is when you find out how good the monitor actually is. Printers have a wider gamut than SRGB and if you don't reprocess the image for printing it will not print what you see on the screen. Any good printing company should accept 16bit file formats. If you print on metal you will need to learn about CMYK printing.

Well Written Helpful Concise
kvastronomer avatar

Do I have a chance of doing monitor calibration if it is a regular $100 monitor?

andrea tasselli avatar
A2 should be plenty and then some. Aluminium printing would look rather good as a finish but you'd still need light to make it work as intended. Print a small sample and see how it compares against your screen rendition. You need to learn about the CYMK process no more than you'd need of the ins and outs of the combustion process of benzene to drive a car.
Helpful
Rainer Ehlert avatar

kvastronomer · Feb 19, 2026, 02:59 PM

Do I have a chance of doing monitor calibration if it is a regular $100 monitor?

IMHO yes you can calibrate a $100.00 monitor but the question is here if it supports the colour gamut of AdobeRGB.

A simple calibrator cost maybe the same as your $ 100.00 monitor.

Just an example of a cheap but good calibrator

https://calibrite.com/product/display-123/

Mark Fox avatar

The best rule for printing is to not go lower that 300 pixels/inch, so in your case with a 12k resolution you could print up to 40 inches on the wide dimension… but you may want to pixel peep to see if you are happy to that size. But having said that, modern printing methods can achieve better resolution and you may start seeing little noisy details (if any - I haven’t pixel peeped your image even though I gave it a “like” the other day) if you try for the 40” size.

I’ve printed a few items on metal, and it would be interesting to see the difference between direct metal printing versus white flood layer (printing a white base onto the metal before applying the image). The white flood layer will show the work in any light (it’s like printing on high quality paper), but the direct to metal printing needs reflectance to see the image - and when there is reflectance, the effect is really nice. I have a M31 on metal on display in a room with a lot of natural light and love it during daylight hours, but in the evening it goes really dull, and the neighboring Pacman (printed on white flood layer on the metal) starts to steal the show.

Another note - I just printed a Rosette onto white-flooded metal. I was disappointed in the light blue oxygen highlights - they became very blanched and lost a lot of saturation, I believe because the company auto-scaled the luminance. If possible, see if the printer will give you a proof prior to printing. For a lot of these online portals where you can order metal prints, it’s a pretty automated process and you may not have the proof option. But a phone call to express your concerns - if they are a real printhouse - will help them get the project the way you want it. I just feel that many astrophotos might be subject to autoscaling the output since any top ends in the histograms are little pinpoints and probably really don’t register a lot of weight in their software and your histogram goes heavily light - especially your gorgeous starless nebulosity - the printer will really have to focus on keeping faithful to the histogram.

Worst case - maybe they can print the job on high quality paper, maybe half-sized to your intended finish size before you commit to a larger investment in full-size metal.

EDIT: Okay, I’ve now pixel peeped your image. When I zoom in to your AB image, to 0.13x zoom, that presents 100 dpi on my screen. Zooming to 0.39x, that shows me the detail at a virtual 300dpi, and I feel your image holds up nicely. It seems the dusty fingers still have some sharpness at that level (which would be equivalent to someone getting within 12” of your print, if done at 20” wide, 18” away if done at 30” wide).

Whatever you decide, I think the image will be a conversation piece…. just don’t get into the ‘green’ discussion ;-)

CS,
Mark

Well Written Helpful Engaging
Mark Fox avatar

I should also have weighed in on color gamut. RGB gamuts display a much broader range of color versus CMYK gamut. CMYK is the use of Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and Black ink to create colors subtractively (reflectance) as opposed to the light-additive RGB gamuts. I’ve seen the recommendation online to convert your image to CMYK and sending that to the print house, which i usually do (but in hindsight, that may have been the issue with my Rosette image - I sent it as sRGB).Photoshop and Affinity Photo easily will convert the color mode, and you could then submit a 16-bit CMYK TIF.

You should seek to use the proper CMYK color profile, too. Sorry, I don’t know where you reside, but in the US, printers like to see a “U.S. SWOP” color profile. In Europe a FOGRA-39 is the best choice. These options can be found in the color management areas of the software.

Well Written Helpful Engaging Supportive
kvastronomer avatar

Thanks Everyone!

As I understand now, based on your comments, I can easily go with A2 size and most recommended printing on metal. I appreciate info on white flood layer printing, never heard of it before.

Mark mentioned asking a printing company for a proof prior to printing. What is this?

I'm intrigued by metal printing on white flood layer option, thinking to order a small-sized test print at first.

What good printing company would you recommend in USA?

Respectful
Mark Fox avatar

A proof is provided by the printer as “proof” that the output meets the customer’s requirements.

I had my metal prints done online by Mpix, but I wasn’t picky about the output. They actually turned out exactly as I expected, without any formal proof. However, the ideal situation for a printer recommendation is to find someone local for you who will do metal prints. Being local, you should be able to get a proof or easily get some kind of small sized output for review before you ‘go big’. That will definitely assure you that you are getting what you expect.

I was thinking through the white flood vs direct to metal aspect of the project. Your beautiful image might benefit well from the direct to metal output. You have a lot of lighter nebulosity throughout. Direct to metal will really cause those highlights to pop (highlights = less ink used = most transparent area = more light reflectance). You’ll probably get some good glow out of the blue midtones, but not like the orange and yellow areas. The darker areas really won’t change much with varying light, since there’s a lot of ink (and less transparency) to reflect light off the metal in those shadows. I envision that turning on a light in the room will make it look like a light has been turned on behind the artwork. But when the lights are off, you will lose a lot of tonal range and the contrast will be much lower.

Whatever you decide to do, either way I believe the image will be gorgeous and a real conversation starter.

CS,

Mark

Well Written Helpful Respectful Engaging Supportive