Pinched Optics?

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Jerry Gerber avatar
Are pinched optics causing these ugly star spikes?
If so, what can I do about them?



Brian Puhl avatar

Make sure your dew heater isn’t on full blast, wait for the scope temperature to settle.

I see them on occasion on my frac but usually only early in the night when temps drop, once it’s acclimated they go away.

Yes its pinched, but let’s rule out heat and acclimation first.

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Tony Gondola avatar

Pie Town got down to 6F on the 21st. If the data is from that night it could be pinched optics from the cold. I Know you run a heater but at 9000’, radiative cooling is pretty powerful.

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Jan Hlavačka avatar

I agree with Brian. You would be surprised how common it is that they overtighten the elements in the factory.. one of the guys i know had to email their tech support and get an actual diagram on how to loosen the element. A simple way to test this is to make an artificial star from a flashlight and a pinhole in a piece of aluminium foil, and try to focus on it while you are inside with the telescope at room temperature and outside while it is acclimated. If it also gets worse in the colder months it is very likely that the element is overtightened and you might have to contact technical support for further diagrams. If you wish so i could also include the diagram they sent to him if you want to take it apart and do it at home yourself quicky, the systems are not gonna be far off from each other, there can Either be a compression ring that is more common on higher quality refractors or a very common grub screw.

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Tony Gondola avatar

Jan Hlavačka · Jan 26, 2026, 09:34 PM

I agree with Brian. You would be surprised how common it is that they overtighten the elements in the factory.. one of the guys i know had to email their tech support and get an actual diagram on how to loosen the element. A simple way to test this is to make an artificial star from a flashlight and a pinhole in a piece of aluminium foil, and try to focus on it while you are inside with the telescope at room temperature and outside while it is acclimated. If it also gets worse in the colder months it is very likely that the element is overtightened and you might have to contact technical support for further diagrams. If you wish so i could also include the diagram they sent to him if you want to take it apart and do it at home yourself quicky, the systems are not gonna be far off from each other, there can Either be a compression ring that is more common on higher quality refractors or a very common grub screw.

Jerry is running remote…

Jan Hlavačka avatar

Tony Gondola · Jan 26, 2026 at 09:50 PM

Jan Hlavačka · Jan 26, 2026, 09:34 PM

I agree with Brian. You would be surprised how common it is that they overtighten the elements in the factory.. one of the guys i know had to email their tech support and get an actual diagram on how to loosen the element. A simple way to test this is to make an artificial star from a flashlight and a pinhole in a piece of aluminium foil, and try to focus on it while you are inside with the telescope at room temperature and outside while it is acclimated. If it also gets worse in the colder months it is very likely that the element is overtightened and you might have to contact technical support for further diagrams. If you wish so i could also include the diagram they sent to him if you want to take it apart and do it at home yourself quicky, the systems are not gonna be far off from each other, there can Either be a compression ring that is more common on higher quality refractors or a very common grub screw.

Jerry is running remote…

That is way worse in that case.. if its a problem that happens just in the cold i guess its not that terrible, but if its pinched bad i think he is going to have to pay a visit

Jerry Gerber avatar
I am not sure the optics are pinched due to a mechanical issue.  I've been imaging remotely for 2 years with this scope and do not see this problem 90% of the time.   It may have to do with the cold weather, I don't run the dew heaters on high, I let the Pegasus powerbox automate the dew heating based on the dew/temperature sensor and it never gets near the highest setting. 

I'll have to experiment and also see if there's any way I can minimize the impact with processing..

Thanks guys!
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Jan Hlavačka avatar

Jerry Gerber · Jan 27, 2026 at 01:32 AM

I am not sure the optics are pinched due to a mechanical issue.  I've been imaging remotely for 2 years with this scope and do not see this problem 90% of the time.   It may have to do with the cold weather, I don't run the dew heaters on high, I let the Pegasus powerbox automate the dew heating based on the dew/temperature sensor and it never gets near the highest setting. 

I'll have to experiment and also see if there's any way I can minimize the impact with processing..

Thanks guys!

You see, from my experience dew heaters wont help you in cold weather like this, people i know who had this issue had it pinched because the dew heaters do not have the capacity to keep the whole tube warmer, just the element. So the aluminium tube tends to contract and pinch the elements. It is really Hard to confirm this for me though, because of the resolution of the image. You can usually tell This is happening my seeing multiple distinct “cut” lines through the star, not just one. You can solve this by getting silver bubble insulation and wrapping the tube up, so its going to radiate all the heat out more slowly

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lunohodov avatar

Jerry, is the dew heater strap wrapped around the objective lens?

During winter, I often image with temperature drops around the 0°F (-17°C) mark and have noticed something similar a couple of times. I haven’t seen anything after moving the strap away from the lens, closer to the edge of the dew shield.

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Jan Hlavačka avatar

lunohodov · Jan 27, 2026 at 08:11 AM

Jerry, is the dew heater strap wrapped around the objective lens?

During winter, I often image with temperature drops around the 0°F (-17°C) mark and have noticed something similar a couple of times. I haven’t seen anything after moving the strap away from the lens, closer to the edge of the dew shield.

I’m not sure how it works on refractors but that sounds like it would only delay the issue, I am 90% sure that would heat the air and cause local turbulence inside the dew shield

lunohodov avatar

Jan, I don’t see what you’re describing.

John Hayes gave a great talk recently – The Physics of Dew Prevention, which I enjoyed very much. I highly recommend it.

Warm regards

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Tony Gondola avatar

Jerry Gerber · Jan 27, 2026, 01:32 AM

I am not sure the optics are pinched due to a mechanical issue.  I've been imaging remotely for 2 years with this scope and do not see this problem 90% of the time.   It may have to do with the cold weather, I don't run the dew heaters on high, I let the Pegasus powerbox automate the dew heating based on the dew/temperature sensor and it never gets near the highest setting. 

I'll have to experiment and also see if there's any way I can minimize the impact with processing..

Thanks guys!

The think is Jerry, pinched optics are a mechanical issue. The dew heater is putting in just enough energy to warm the glass above the dew point. That can still be pretty cold and you can still get mechanical pinching of the optics by the cold tube and cell. The only real fix for this is resetting the objective so that it has a little more clearance in the cell. It doesn’t take much to make a difference.

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Tony Gondola avatar

lunohodov · Jan 27, 2026, 08:11 AM

Jerry, is the dew heater strap wrapped around the objective lens?

During winter, I often image with temperature drops around the 0°F (-17°C) mark and have noticed something similar a couple of times. I haven’t seen anything after moving the strap away from the lens, closer to the edge of the dew shield.

Good advice if the heater is the problem and the objective is over-heating because as we learned from John Hayes, heating the dew shield is what you want to do in all cases.

Tony Gondola avatar

Jan Hlavačka · Jan 27, 2026, 08:48 AM

lunohodov · Jan 27, 2026 at 08:11 AM

Jerry, is the dew heater strap wrapped around the objective lens?

During winter, I often image with temperature drops around the 0°F (-17°C) mark and have noticed something similar a couple of times. I haven’t seen anything after moving the strap away from the lens, closer to the edge of the dew shield.

I’m not sure how it works on refractors but that sounds like it would only delay the issue, I am 90% sure that would heat the air and cause local turbulence inside the dew shield

But I doubt that turbulence is the issue… John did an entire study of dew formation and prevention. The thread is on the bin.

Jan Hlavačka avatar

Tony Gondola · Jan 27, 2026 at 04:00 PM

Jan Hlavačka · Jan 27, 2026, 08:48 AM

lunohodov · Jan 27, 2026 at 08:11 AM

Jerry, is the dew heater strap wrapped around the objective lens?

During winter, I often image with temperature drops around the 0°F (-17°C) mark and have noticed something similar a couple of times. I haven’t seen anything after moving the strap away from the lens, closer to the edge of the dew shield.

I’m not sure how it works on refractors but that sounds like it would only delay the issue, I am 90% sure that would heat the air and cause local turbulence inside the dew shield

But I doubt that turbulence is the issue… John did an entire study of dew formation and prevention. The thread is on the bin.

Im not saying it is, my point is that it will create another issue. I will check the thread out.

Jan Hlavačka avatar

lunohodov · Jan 27, 2026 at 02:23 PM

Jan, I don’t see what you’re describing.

John Hayes gave a great talk recently – The Physics of Dew Prevention, which I enjoyed very much. I highly recommend it.

Warm regards

Thank you for this guide!! This is very well Explained in detail

Jerry Gerber avatar
I can move the dew strap a bit closer to the end of the scope if that will help.   The weather certainly has been cold, hovering around 5-10F.
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Jerry Gerber avatar
Jerry, is the dew heater strap wrapped around the objective lens?

During winter, I often image with temperature drops around the 0°F (-17°C) mark and have noticed something similar a couple of times. I haven’t seen anything after moving the strap away from the lens, closer to the edge of the dew shield.

Yes, it's wrapped around at the point where the actual lens is.
Jerry Gerber avatar
Jan Hlavačka:
Jerry Gerber · Jan 27, 2026 at 01:32 AM

I am not sure the optics are pinched due to a mechanical issue.  I've been imaging remotely for 2 years with this scope and do not see this problem 90% of the time.   It may have to do with the cold weather, I don't run the dew heaters on high, I let the Pegasus powerbox automate the dew heating based on the dew/temperature sensor and it never gets near the highest setting. 

I'll have to experiment and also see if there's any way I can minimize the impact with processing..

Thanks guys!

You see, from my experience dew heaters wont help you in cold weather like this, people i know who had this issue had it pinched because the dew heaters do not have the capacity to keep the whole tube warmer, just the element. So the aluminium tube tends to contract and pinch the elements. It is really Hard to confirm this for me though, because of the resolution of the image. You can usually tell This is happening my seeing multiple distinct “cut” lines through the star, not just one. You can solve this by getting silver bubble insulation and wrapping the tube up, so its going to radiate all the heat out more slowly

I'm seeing two "cut lines" on each star, a smaller one just to the left of the bottom of the star and one larger one at around 7 o' clock.
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Arun H avatar
Jerry Gerber:
Yes, it's wrapped around at the point where the actual lens is.


Jerry - I don't know if this affects your pinched optics or not, but the best place to put a dew heater is not around the actual lens location, but around the hood in front of the lens. You are not trying to heat the lens itself, which can cause issues and is an extremely inefficient way of controlling dew. You are trying to heat the dew shield just enough to provide a warm surface for radiative heat exchange for the lens. Otherwise, the lens will cool below the dew point due to radiation exchange with the rapidly cooling dew shield and the cold night sky. Heating the dew shield prevents this from happening. I would also recommend John Hayes excellent video on dew control. 

I will not offer an opinion on whether this is pinched optics or not. I will say that how the lens cell is supported in the tube matters. I even had a pinched optics issue with a very high end telescope. I made the manufacturer aware, and they were good enough to admit they had made a mistake in how the cell was supported and fixed it for me. The scope has been excellent since, down to well below 0F.
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Jerry Gerber avatar
Arun H:
Jerry Gerber:
Yes, it's wrapped around at the point where the actual lens is.


Jerry - I don't know if this affects your pinched optics or not, but the best place to put a dew heater is not around the actual lens location, but around the hood in front of the lens. You are not trying to heat the lens itself, which can cause issues and is an extremely inefficient way of controlling dew. You are trying to heat the dew shield just enough to provide a warm surface for radiative heat exchange for the lens. Otherwise, the lens will cool below the dew point due to radiation exchange with the rapidly cooling dew shield and the cold night sky. Heating the dew shield prevents this from happening. I would also recommend John Hayes excellent video on dew control. 

I will not offer an opinion on whether this is pinched optics or not. I will say that how the lens cell is supported in the tube matters. I even had a pinched optics issue with a very high end telescope. I made the manufacturer aware, and they were good enough to admit they had made a mistake in how the cell was supported and fixed it for me. The scope has been excellent since, down to well below 0F.

The dew strap has been moved further from the lens toward the front of the scope.  I hope this helps.  

Though I know that it's best practice to fix a problem earlier in the process than later, I've been experimenting with Pixinsight's Star Mask, Morphological Transformation and Blur-X to see if I can salvage the data by minimizing or removing the "cut lines".   I could not improve the data with these tools so I used my photo imaging app to fix each star individually just to see if I could salvage the data and make it somewhat presentable. 

Compared to the original I posted at the top of this thread I think it's better.  Obviously, the best thing is to avoid the problem in the first place!

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